Nickarla

Yes, forget the brushless. Completely pointless for a 10 year old.

What is the budget? I too would avoid an FTX. It breaks when crashed and that happens a lot with a 10 year old. The Corally Triton is pretty decent for the money. It’s rear wheel drive so less drivetrain issued. You would need to invest in batteries and charger but if you’re getting into the world of Hobbygrade RC then you need to understand basics such as this anyway. The Corally also benefits from an ETA so you can dial the speed down until he gets used to driving it.

Usually threads are the same between screws. I’ve never had a Tamiya but I would be surprised if there were any differences. I always buy my replacement screws from ebay and purchase 10.9 or 12.9 grade steel. No more rounding out then and never had an issue with thread compatibility.

You won’t notice much difference between 4000kv and 4370kv. As mentioned, where will you be using it? If it’s open smooth surfaces go higher kv, if it’s slower more off road I prefer lower kv.

I can see the video but have no idea what car it is or why it is doing that stuttering. Is it a hobby grade car or a toy?

To be honest this only happens once because after than one occasion I used threadlock. I’ve never had an issue since but then I’ve never not used threadlock since. I will consider the other suggestions, thank you.

I didn’t know they did that. I’ve had a quick look and nothing came up but I’ll dig a little deeper.

Yes, I use the Answer ones which are serrated and use rubber washer to seal and add load. Still had one fly off, lol.

Its a 1/8 Hyper ST Pro

Maybe, but not that I can see, so, no one hasn’t had experience with ptfe tape?

I' am using ribbed wheel nuts with larger flanges. They have still come off in the past.

I use my cars on different surfaces and want to be able to change out my wheels during the day. I’ve been using threadlock which is a pain as you need to leave it 24 hours after applying. Is there an alternative? I was going to experiment with plumbers/ptfe tape around the threads but having experienced wheel hex loss before I wanted to gather some thoughts before trying it for real.

The pinion size also has a significant influence on top speed. I had the HobbyWing max10 which is 3300kv. It was very good and similar to yours went to 30mph on Carnage wheels, 33mph on Bugsta wheels and if I remember correctly was on a 15t pinion.

I might be blind but I can't see which teeth are damaged. These can blow but usually its because something was loose, the car was driving when it jammed against something etc. For the cost difference I would just get replacements, they don't go that often to warrant the cost difference, unless you like the spider diffs...afterall, who wouldn't?

What did you use to reduce the gears? Was it just the pinion/spur ratio or the gearbox gears?

What issues are the standard shocks causing?

The main benefit with LiPo is the consistent power delivery. Nimh loses performance as soon as you start driving. A LiPo will generally feel more powerful because the performance doesn’t drop. The LiPo will be like a nimh after a fresh charge but all the time until it runs out.

Are you guys using shoe goo with your shells or do you not bash them?

I’m pleased to see that. Now if they could only toughen the diffs and crown gears in the gear boxes then it would be punching well above its price point.

@James RC have a look at covering up the spur gear cover otherwise than nice acetal RW spur gear will become a nice toothless acetal RW spur gear 😆

Nice one @James RC. Good cars for the money ...although I bet that rear spoiler won’t last 2 days 😂 The Carnage and Bugsta are the same chassis. The Bugsta has bigger wheels and different shel. Everything else is the same.

I never really had big issues with the spur. The front and rear crown gears though were a different story. No steel gears for them unfortunately.

@James RC sounds like a good plan. I went through around 6 spur gears over 2 years. I never broke an RW pinion gear though.

I hadn’t used 3s but could well see this happening as it happened when I had 2s. I think it happens when you do bad landings but you hear it when breaking as it clicks.

Are you familiar with venting? This reduces the weight of the water ingress in the tyres by allowing it to escape, significantly improving drivetrain, servo and mechanical wear. I personally solder 4 holes evenly spaced in my tyres but this guy seems to have come up with a neater solution.