m4inbrain

Thanks, glad to hear - and yeah, sadly. 😞

Cheers bud. 🙂 So, did get a bit further, so might as well do another update. Starting here. Rear arms mounted, went together well - zero issues, just nothing to report. Bit like Lego, stick together and put a screw in, everything lined up spot on so no difficulties. The spool, as well as the explanation for a load shift setup by pushing more droop on the suspension arms after assembly. I opted not to go for a load shift setup, not yet at least. I might give it a go eventually, but for now i just want to run it bone stock, no faff. Spool installed in the gearbox housing. Now. Here's where i'm conflicted, a little bit - everything is plastic. Spool, gearbox, gears - no metal at all. It runs very quiet, very slick - and there's not going to be much torque on anything since the wheels obviously are spinning free (albeit locked through the spool, my RMX has more of a limited slip kinda setup), but.. I do like metal gearboxes. Yeah, completely pointless in a drifter, and much louder too - just preference. Plastic, regardless of how well made it is (i think two gears are delrin?), just feels a little cheap. Subjectively. That all said, it all lined up, all fell into place with nice reinforcing clicks. Here's the first major deviation from my RMX in terms of setup - the motor sits higher. You get two options for the motor plate, either mount it like this for the "high cg" setup, or rotated 90 degrees counter clockwise for the more "traditional" setup, with the motor slightly further forward but lower. That's how the motor sits in my 2.5 - on this one i thought i give a higher CG setup a shot. Top deck and battery guides installed, and that's the other main difference in terms of setup. I'll get to that in a second. One second later. Gearbox etc in, and this is how the battery sits in my RMX. This is how it's going to sit in the RDX. I'll explain the idea at the end of the post, including one more "deviation". Battery lock installed, interesting system. After posting the picture just now i thought that there was a hairline fracture in the hinge, double checked, all good, just a small mark - must've slipped with the blade when i was cutting out the pieces. Anyway - i'm not 100% sure yet, but i might be able to throw Gyro and/or receiver on there while keeping it tidy, that would make space to mount the ESC on the top deck rather than the back (most, but not all RDX have the ESC hanging from the back on a dedicated plate). I kinda want to keep the weight between the wheels, due to our track layout i "need" fast transitions, and having all the weight out back leads to a pendulum effect. Which is desired on some tracks, not so much on others. I'll see how it feels, it's all reversible anyway. Friendly warning for butter fingers like me. So far, haven't stripped any threads whatsoever, very chuffed with it. And that's how it sits right now, with the chassis braces installed - this is sadly also as far as i can go at the moment until more stuff arrives. In the next step the rear body mounts have to be installed, and they have to be installed in this step since the screws get obstructed later down the line. Since i'll be going magnetic again, i have to wait for the magnetic mounts to arrive before i continue. Which i might as well, since i also ordered (bloody finally) shock shaft pliers. No more faffing about with some naff grips that i tried to wrap in heat shrink (and then wrapped in tissue) to not scratch the shafts. Should make things much easier. So.. No idea when more stuff arrives, until then it sadly went back into the box. Even sadder, i'm basically almost through the build already. It went together so easy and smooth, with no backtracking on my part (because everything is crystal clear in the manual, no trial and error/guesswork/doubts required) that, if you have the parts, you can finish that kit in less than three hours from a bunch of bags to actually driving. Sucks, i'm already browsing for the next kit lol (the then "the very unreasonably priced Yokomo SD2.0", probably lol). Cheers for reading so far, i'll be back once more things arrive.

Boy do i. Did get stuck in for half an hour now, can give a preliminary opinion on quality now, the manual etc. Lets start with the start. Always makes me giggle to think that this is an RC. Eventually. Not much to say here, it's bags, numbered. With stuff and things. Now, this is where i was impressed for the first time. It's of course kind of impossible to tell via picture, but this is part of the bell crank assembly - and there's absolutely zero play vertically. It runs horizontally smooth as butter with no friction whatsoever, and without exaggeration, there's not even a micrometer movement up and down. I think in terms of precision for plastic parts, this is the best one i've ever seen. Finished bell crank assembly. Also, Deus Vult, for the meme-lords amongst us. Next, this is what the manual looks like. In the beginning it was a little confusing, due to the Katakana before English, makes it a little awkward to just glance at a picture/text - but in the end turned out to be advantageous, because it makes you look at the picture longer - potentially making less mistakes. The manual is very precise, any potential question mark in terms of orientation for example is made crystal clear, like in this example (i couldn't tell the orientation of the lower front mount from the exploded view - they knew i'd be that stupid and provided an extra picture). It also mentions potential deviations from the standard build (mounting the arm upside down for droop/load shift setups) straight at the source. In terms of print and paper, it's good. Not outstanding, but absolutely good. Not that it matters that much, but i personally do think that details matter, and having a quality manual is a big plus. Lastly: Bell crank assembly installed with front bulkhead and servo. Take note MST, both short and long links were provided to suite both servo orientations. The manual also made very clear what position the servo horn is to be mounted (slightly offset to the right), again via picture. That's how far i got for now, need a new bloody chair at the desk - my back's already killing me lol, age ain't helping i guess. Conclusion so far, the plastics are good - close to Traxxas quality. No stripped screws, and you can get screws proper tight. The tolerances/precision of the parts, especially considering they're plastic, is amazing. Beating companies like Axial by a few orders of magnitude, as well as Traxxas by some margin. Also beating the MST which in itself went together nicely, but this is a level or two above, at least so far. Incredibly happy with it. It goes together quick and smoothly, partially due to parts just magically lining up, partially because the manual doesn't leave room for interpretation or confusion. I'll have to go out for a bit, certainly hope i'll get a little more done today.

LiPos have a nominal voltage of 3.7v, not 3.2v. LiHV is 3.8v nominal. 3.2v is close to damaging the LiPo.

Very certainly, just gotta cook now and then the evening be me, AC/DC and a screwdriver. 🤩

Well, would you look at that. Thanks to Asbo RC, ordered yesterday at like 3:30pm, just arrived. Can't argue with that, first time i've ordered something there, not going to be the last lol. Just had a quick peek at the kit, turns out this is actually JDM - made in Chiba, Japan. Didn't know that. The manual, as far as i can tell, isn't quite as quality as the RMX 2.5 - which, to be fair, was the best manual i've ever seen in terms of print quality, pictures etc. That doesn't mean it's bad, it's indeed very good with "tips" or "hints" sprinkled around where applicable, as well as 1:1 part display for the smaller stuff. I'll take a few pictures later, gotta sort out shopping etc now (just as a side-rant, screw the 20mph welsh speed limit, thanks for listening) - then i'll get stuck in for a bit. Don't think anything else arrives today, but i don't think i'll get to the electrics anyway today/tomorrow, so no worries there. Happy days.

Definitely, they're fun to build (and drive).

Looking forward to building. 😉

Hey there, long time no see. Been busy with all kinds of stuff, enjoying the RMX 2.5 i built a while ago etc - but thought that now the season for boating/crawling comes to an end (eew cold and wet and urgh), it's time for another build. After reading into the Reve D RDX, i went onto a research spree looking at twelveteen different chassis', to then in the end land back at the RDX. Now, reason to go for the RDX rather than hopping up the RMX (which performs beautifully, i want to add - hasn't missed a beat), is rather simple. A: i want something new. That's the main reason. B: decided to go from entry level with the RMX 2.5 to "mid level" with the RDX. C: my wife wants the RMX 2.5 since she started to enjoy drifting too. Which is the hidden main reason. Now, shopping list - in typical fashion, much like the previous build, everything is ordered and nothing has arrived yet. Though, this time everything is ordered in the UK, so shouldn't take forever. Here's what i ordered: A Reve D RDX. Didn't opt for the drift team upgraded decks etc, i'll run it out of the box for now and see what the hype is about, and then go through it as i have time (and more importantly, money). Motor and ESC: Hobbywing combo, Xerun XD10 Pro with D10 10.5t motor. Does all the fancy bits that i haven't touched at all yet (boost, turbo and whatnot) - i just fancied something more bling, there's nothing wrong with the more budget oriented setup that i installed in the RMX. This one here is for future proofing. Next would be Servo and Gyro: Not much to say with those two - got both in the RMX 2.5 and can't see how, at my "drivers level", anything could be improved. They're literally performing perfectly. Maybe at the ragged edge of uberdruber 360 entry sanpatsu drift god capabilities they won't do for some reason, but where i'm at (and beyond for a while) they're just spot on. I did opt for a set of nice wheels: These are Tetsujin Bowlers, adjustable offset. Of course, i'm pretty sure that they're not to everyone's liking, but i've seen enough 5 spoke wheels now, as well as BBS style wheels. These are rather different, i like them. They will be replaced eventually, i'll explain why in a minute. Lastly, shell. Here's a caveat though. This shell is just a placeholder, because i'm lazy - i had good experiences with the Killerbody shell i already have on the RMX, so i didn't mind going for another one. The reason it's a placeholder (and also the reason why the wheels are only temporary) is that i found a company that builds shells professionally on commission, and i've put an order in. The problem is that a conservative ETA would be around 6-9 months though, so until then, i had to have something. And this one's good enough. Of course there's other bits that i won't go into here now, like magnetic body posts, tyres etc - but i should have everything i need to build it from start to finish in one go. Which of course won't be the case, i am still probably £100 behind in stupid stuff like connectors and everything else i've forgotten. But yeah, here we are, yet another drifter. I'll update once parts arrive, should be between Monday and Wednesday for everything.

For starters, the Kyosho bike isn't "less than a third". The kit is £170 (no, the one offer at £150 that's out of stock doesn't count). You still need ESC, Servo and Radio. So even if we're generous and say only £70 for all the above, you're at £250. That's £250 for a brushed, non-stabilised 1/8th bike that barely makes jogging speed. Makes a £579, dual-brushless, stabilised 1/4th bike that goes 40+mph with external disc brake look actually pretty good. What you're arguing is that a Kronos or Savage is vastly overpriced because look how cheap TT01 are. I'm not arguing that the Promoto is cheap, it is not. It only appears "extremely overpriced" if you don't pay attention though, and draw your conclusions from false equivalence. For what it is, that's more or less the price i'd expect (i did expect £550).

Well.. There's other stuff i gotta get first. 😛 Kinda want another boat and a small basher, gotta sort that out proper first.

Probably want to check if there's a metally upgrade bit for the "radiator" part - RCDriver_Online snapped it there, didn't seem too strong. Still drove, but it only took one nosedive (easy with a bike) to snap it.

If i hadn't bought and built a Capra and a boat, for £579 i'd probably get one. Not that they're particularly great bashers from what i've seen (though they do bash), but they're better priced than most other Traxxas/Horizon stuff (considering it's running two motors, new actual engineering/design etc). As it sits, the wallet has to recover a bit first.

Bump.

Hey there. For sale here my MMX 8s, 1717-1650kv. Bought as a combo, in total probably less than an hour of run time on it. I sleeved the cables (more for looks than anything, to be honest), i replaced the original sensor wire with a longer one (Castle OEM part), and i replaced the stock fan with a Rocket one - the original one still works, but they tend to break quick, so i just replaced it from the get go. Reason for sale is simply that i don't have anything anymore that i could stick it into, nor do i have an interest in what's currently available on the market - and it's too nice a system to just have sit on the shelf. Any question, just ask. These retail at £430 stock - asking £300 + fees.

The vast majority of forces against a crawler body are HORIZONTAL. Either when you push the shell into a rock (it slides backwards), if you lean on it or wedge it (it slides sidewards). The only situation where you put vertical force on a crawler body is if it protrudes a bumper and you get it hung up when dropping off a rock. And even then it's likely that the chassis slides out under the shell. Or when you pick it up, i guess. Here. Imagine instead of my finger ever so gently pushing against the front, you ever so gently push the shell into a rock (edit: battery is inside, around 4.5lbs) Want me to get you pictures of my crawler shells to show where the vast majority of damage/scratches are, or is it okay if we assume that driving through here: will lead to the shell being pushed around on top of the mounts and WILL come off if not locked horizontally by some kind of body post or similar function?

Because it can't move horizontally on the mounts.

They're an RC kit. Like any other RC kit. Including the one that OP is wanting to buy. Except it's not a china special, but at least from a manufacturer known for quality. Stealth body mounts do not come with any ratings.

Which one would that be? I don't watch Talbot, so i wouldn't know. I do watch Raz Shiffrin though, and i haven't seen any.

Bollocks. And i know that for a fact, since i have a shell mounted on neodymium magnets. Sure. Not on less than half an inch of diameter of magnet though. Guaranteed not.

Okay, that's completely missing the point, sorry. Magnetic body mounts are useless on anything other than a drifter, that's a fact. The fact that your RC with only half the mounting points being magnetic (and the rest being body posts) doesn't throw the shell isn't surprising considering it's held by pins. Body posts prevent the body shell from moving horizontally on the magnets. Which is how you separate magnets. Yours only move vertically, which is where magnets are strong. That's not the case for a fully magnetic shell. On my RMX 2.5, which has neodymium magnets, i need maybe 100g of force sideways to pop the shell off. If the point is eliminating body posts, then "having body posts" is a bit besides it - there's a reason why not a single RC (to my knowledge) on the market comes with fully magnetic body mounts. In fact, my Sherpa (hinge in the rear, magnets at the front) still has a "safety bolt" you screw into the shell through the chassis. Wombats solution is probably the most reliable for an aftermarket solution. Except you could just shoe goo/mesh the brackets on the inside, technically that should be enough and you wouldn't see anything.

There's other options, like industrial strength velcro etc - but it's the same issue, nothing's going to hold a body on a basher in a rollover, and crawlers get hung up on their body often (as well as pushing against the body from all sides), which velcro probably won't hold either. You could design a clip mount via 3d printer, like "cement" a hook into the shell and a clamp on the chassis, but in the end it's all kind of not worth it imho. I have them on my drift RCs (magnetic), and even there they're annoying because the shell pops off after every tap. Best solution would be something like the TRX4 Bronco 21, which has proper underbody clips from factory.

On a drifter okay, on anything else worthless.