danb1974

I'd too like to see an XL version of the scx10. If not, there is the ascender that thanks to body and wheels looks bigger

I've got eds, nice and tight and did not left my wallet dry, got out stripped screws in which regular hex driver would just spin Very very tight fit in new screws Not used much so no idea about reliability

You can run a light slow car forever (hours) or a big heavy basher/racer for 10-15 minutes on the same battery So, what car are we talking about?

Actually all you need to know is that, on the balance connector, between each pair of adjacent pins there is a cell. With a multimeters set on a suitable volts scale you can determine each cell's voltage and polarity, and find the bad one. Then charge it as 1S. Thing is avoid any shorts and do not mess up polarity when connecting to charger. But I'd expect a charger with balance mode to bring the bad cell to 4.2V, albeit very very very slowly. Or you can use a low current independent channel cheapo charger like this one http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__25979__Turnigy_2S_3S_Balance_Charger_Direct_110_240v_Input_UK_Warehouse_.html Just let it charge until all leds are green

If you know what you are doing... use the balance connector to charge only that cell (in 1S mode with the big charger or using any little single cell charger you have lying around) Then do a balance charge on the entire pack and check voltages Triple check the wiring and don't make any shorts while doing this If you don't feel comfortable don't do it

Time for something different. When I opened the box, my first though was "do I need to glue the tires". Oh wait, it doesn't even have a motor. Only 300-something parts, easy 1 hour job

You mean there is voltage on the balance connector for all cells but none on the power connector?

Sound (and vibration) is not new and not just for kids Just look at how much a Tamiya MFU unit for trucks costs. Actually at how much a complete truck and trailer with lights and sound costs.

Can we have pics please A proper solder joint should not unsolder unless it reaches temperatures above "motor toast" point

Tail fin interferes with air moved by tail rotor, reducing it's efficiency. But it protects it when you hit the ground tail first. And it looks good. On the mcpx there is a very simple mod using a small zip tie instead of that fin, to protect the rotor. Should work on ncpx too. Fix the zip tie on tail boom, pointing down. Cut to desired length to be just a tad longer than rotor.

Get a digital radio, not worth wasting time and a bunch of AA batteries with that old AM radio

I oil everything that rotates at high speed on my mcpx, motors, bearings

Banned without warning or explanation and thread deleted from a local forum because I explained that I buy from whoever has the best price. Turns out that the facts that forum belongs to a lhs and I disagreed with a member that knows the admins were not in my favour.

I would first switch to 2.4Ghz radio then try to calibrate the esc

Yup connectors not comming apart easy is good news Make sure the batt connector is not deformed due to heat, if you're not replacing it

Flux helps a lot in many ways (helps heat transfer, clean shiny no-edges solder, avoids unwanted bridges). Use a no-clean one, to avoid mess. Yeah I keep reading that pro's don't need flux, good for them, I was never able to give up flux even after 4 years of daily soldering.

They are fine, but there are plenty of fake deans out there

Set up a beginner ncpx profile and have fun. 10x better than stock remote. Helifreak should have a dedicated thread for the ncpx, do read it

If the connectors are not tight, but just plug/unplug with ease, they will overheat and eventually melt, even if the soldering is fine. Once overheated, I would change both connectors.

For larger helis you may want a better tx. Even a second hand dx7s.

1/10 is also covered by those sizes Screws that are threadlocked to death (for example in rtr stuff) need preheating to loosen the threadlock Just today had a figth with the 2mm grubscrew from a 5mm-shaft pinion. With a cheap hex I would have stripped it.

Vaterra has a very funny price policy Their stuff is priced fair only when it's discontinued and sold at half price

Make sure to use a beefy external bec to get the rated speed Fast servo can draw peaks of 7 Amps, way beyond the internal bec can supply (usually 3 Amps or less) When I finnaly installed such a bec, it was like hey that's like a different servo Or go with a HV servo

Recently got some eds's, very nice, lets see how durable they are Managed to pull out some stripped screws in which regular (not cheap but not rc grade) driver was no good

Entry level chassis Unless tt01/02, they do include bearings