-BEZ-

You will find when you start doing stupidly long prints that its well worth paying the extra for material that gives you a more consistent print and less potential issues. Have you had that issue since a recent firmware update? Also check the gcode to see if its changing the temperature at a given layer in case the slicer has set a different parameter.

Its cool to see people picking up on 3d printing on the forum its a awesome tool and there are many different materials out there to play with. I've been lucky enough to get some of colorfabb's new prototype polymer which I'm itching to play with as it looks like an awesome alternative to nylon which is the mother of all pains in the arse to print with ....... but work is keeping me tied up. The one problem we all face at some point or another is spools aren't exactly space efficient lol Ive also got a new brand (to me) of filament i will be trying from innofil, they do all the normal PLA/ABS but they also do a PET which I'm looking forward to testing. All I need is some spare time lol .......... but on the proside Im stocked up for doing the prototype of chaser V4 lol

You shouldn't be destroying a CRT diffs I ran 6-8s through mine and never had one failure on HN diffs. Firstly make sure they are shimmed correctly, they should not be too tight or too loose, you should be able to feel a tiny amount of play between the gears if shimmed correctly (check the "mesh" at several points, rotating the crown gear a few times to check for tight spots). Also if you are using brushless setups you need heavier oils. 50k front 50-100k centre and 30k rear always worked really well for my bashers and a had quite a few HN's and have built many others for other forum members. Lastly make sure there is a decent amount of grease on the gears before re assembly. edit: If you are referring to the internal gears failing or wearing make sure there are 2 shims behind each planetary gear (the small ones). The manual refers to one but it was later changed to 2 because the internals would slip under power.

Well since the forum died all sorts of interesting things have been happening. It seems the project has taken a lot of interest since being displayed at the New York Maker fair a couple of weeks ago, to be honest its all been rather humbling and with the video at over 68K views in 2 weeks the term no pressure comes to mind lol. For those of you that haven't seen it here is the link to the Ultimaker Story: https://ultimaker.com/en/blog/view/17623-the-worlds-fastest-3d-printed-r-c-car#videoplay Here's a list I received from the guys at ultimaker of places that took an interest in the project. · Digital Trends (UMV: 5,328,841) http://www.digitaltrends.com/cool-tech/3d-printed-radio-controlled-car/ · CBS News (UMV: 4,868,554) http://www.cbsnews.com/news/watch-a-3d-printed-rc-car-go-100-mph/ · Motherboard (UMV: 341,842) http://motherboard.vice.com/en_ca/read/this-3d-printed-rc-car-can-go-100-miles-per-hour · Atmel (UMV: 174,685) http://blog.atmel.com/2015/10/15/this-3d-printed-rc-car-can-go-100-mph/ · 3D Printing Industry (UMV: 103,835) http://3dprintingindustry.com/2015/10/12/worlds-fastest-rc-car-3d-printed-on-ultimaker-2-extended/ · Ooyuz (UMV: 68,000) http://www.ooyuz.com/geturl?aid=8713989 · 3Ddozzer.com http://www.3ddozzer.com/2015/10/14/worlds-fastest-rworlds-fastest-rc-car-3d-printed-on-ultimaker-2-extendedc-car-3d-printed-on-ultimaker-2-extended/ · My Local 3D Printing https://mylocal3dprinting.com/blog/tag/3d-printing-car/ · Asia Tees https://www.asiatees.com/article?%5BVIDEO%5D-Watch-A-3D-Printed-Car-Go-100mph&id=2332 · Rapid Ready Tech http://www.rapidreadytech.com/2015/10/rc-car-enthusiast-aims-for-world-record-with-3d-printing/ - 3DPrint (UMV: 1,710,607) http://3dprint.com/99778/3d-printed-fasted-rc-car-ever/ · Speed Society (UMV: 1,165,343) http://speedsociety.com/worlds-fastest-3d-printed-rc-car-ultimaker-3d-printing-story/ · 3Ders.org (UMV: 173,328) http://www.3ders.org/articles/20151008-take-a-look-at-the-world-fastest-3d-printed-rc-car.html You have also been hosted on CNET: http://www.cnet.com/news/3d-printed-rc-car-tops-speeds-of-100-mph-tomorrow-daily-258/ So what does this mean for the project .......... well it basically means no turning back until I beat Nic Cases record of just over 202Mph. Following the success of the Ultimaker Story I have been contacted by the guys at Colorfabb and They will be working with me on the project and I will be testing some brand new materials that are not yet on the market so I'm really happy to have them on board with the chaser project. I'm also looking at seeing where I can loose some of the ally parts and replace them with redesigned parts printed in CF20 their Carbon laced filament and following some motor mounts I printed for project X it looks like there could be some interesting developments coming soon.

So it was a bit of a pain not being able to run the project agressivly this year, but on the pro side it has taken an interesting turn. The car has gone on a bit of a holiday with Ultimaker and is doing the rounds over in the states at various 3d printing events https://ultimaker.com/en/stories/view/17525-recap-ultimaker-at-the-3d-printshow-california I will be doing lots of tinkering over the winter, and maybe a few upgrades for running again next year when the weather starts to warm up again

tricky one, id just start replacing the cheapest parts first lol I'm sure your not the only person thats has this issue so there should be something online. The only other thing that comes to mind is if someone spilt a sticky drink over one of the switches which is making a bad contact, but that said if you are using the keyfob to lock and unlock and they do they same thats unlikely going to be the cause. Good luck with your hunt for a solution fella

Have you tried the logical things? - fresh battery in key fob, main battery in good health? - checked ALL the fuses/relays and connector blocks for corrosion? - check for any wiring looms for "pinching" or rubbing - and a squirt of wd40 on all the moving parts.

That wont work as the Traxxas X01 a 1/8 scale platform and the opening post refers to a 1/10 scale touring car platform

Could always be worse sean, It could be robotics lol .......... reminds me of another project I want to get my teeth into lol The longer you are into this hobby you learn the lesson of buy cheap buy twice (or at least twice lol). Tug: So far I've had no problem with debris near the open parts on the motor, MGM said its fine as long as you don't run on sand. At this moment in time I'm going to leave it will have a rummage about and see if I have any old outerwears material that I can use and perhaps cnc/print some kind of clamp to hold it in place

* one

You will need to use foam tyres around 45-55 shore rating if using a TC. Rubber tyres and capped foams will just explode at high rpm.

close enough But yeah the servo is perfect, I think everyone with a 5ive should have one fitted lol

I finally got some time off work and took the 5ive out for a blast The tonne has made a MASSIVE improvement to the handling of the truck, It will need some tuning on the transmitter due to the throw being longer for one direction than the other due to the placement but for normal bashing it was not really noticeable. It was so much more enjoyable to be able to hold a direction while on full throttle which the stock servo just didn't want to know about. The GRP's while having little grip on slightly damp grass made for huge 100ft controlable drifts with little ballooning while being spun up .......... its just such a shame they look out of place on the 5ive but im going to keep my fingers crossed that they see the potential in the 5ive market and start producing some proper wheel and tyre combos. The Silver DDM springs have also made a positive improvement to the handling of the 5ive, I also lowered the height slightly using different positions on the towers and arms, all in all it has made for a more predictable drive I may have accidentally damaged one of the brake disks ......... nothing to do with forgetting about not having a proper brake disk bolt in place and me getting over excited about playing with RCs after such a long break so it may have gotten slightly chewed up while I was drifting about the field like a nut job without a care in the world lol

or run it on a lower voltage

The MCD wheels are decent just don't rag them on tarmac, I murdered one but to be fair i did do a 70-80Mph highside and it went sideways and ripped the side of the tyre walls which in turn spilt the tyre lol

Ohhh no rush fella as im up to my neck in hassle at work so as and when would be awesome. I'll drop you a PM

So I've had the morning off work today so I decided to give the 5ive some lovin'. So I fitted the heavier DDM springs all round: (I must admit with the tonne fitted its starting to look very beastly) And the tonne: I've mocked up the disks but im missing a pad bolt (or what ever there called) So if anyone has one spare please get in contact One problem is the rear disk is just about touching the mount (litrally a fag papers width of clearance) so i will no doubt have to very carefully dremel some of the material away so there is 1mm of clearance. I just need to make up a Y-lead for the brake servo/ESC then its ready for a test run, I'm looking forward to having steering that doesn't feel like a wet sponge lol

Welcome to the club fella. Remember printing ABS produces highly toxic fumes. +1 to what John says, not only do brands differ but different colours need different settings too. Colorfabb and faberdashery produce the best quality filaments

There is a bit of news so to speak, I went to test it on the track at work the other night and discovered the steering servo had decided to give up the ghost, which was extremely annoying. So when I was up Birmingham way yesterday to collect my freshly tuned Weihrauch I popped into visit Dave and harass him for tea has kindly lent me his tonne set up to test on the car as well as some other goodies to help reduce the wallowing and I'm going to go from motor breaking to mechanical breaking so see how that effects the run times and heat generated.

You will need a micrometer for that

not unless you have made it safe. otherwise its the same as putting a smouldering match into a waste paper bin. Its a simple process, bucket or tub of warm water, half a cup of salt, stir the water till the salt dissolves and let the lipo swim in the solution for a few days then its safe to dispose of. Or if you are confident with a soldering iron and have packs of the same type and spec simply remove the good cell(s) and keep them as spares for when one of your other packs drops a cell.

You need to soak them in very salty water for a few days to make them "safe" then they can be disposed of in general waste. The salt breaks down the tabs so they don't combust when pierced or shorted.