Xeostar

A few bits for my next few projects:-

I finished a new body for my old emaxx:- and started my next restoration project:-

Tamiya USA has a MSRP of $1300!!!! Over

I couldn't have put it better myself :-)

Sorry for the late repy, been away with work. Yep it is a Kametc shell. The poly one. Also got my next build in the post :-)

Putting some finished details on my CC01 Bowler.

I'm not really sure if it'll work out too well but smaller wheels will lower the front end. It night be possible to mod the from suspension using parts from other Tamiya models to get a double wish bone set up. I think its been done on Mad Bulls before and I think they are similar cars. I'd ask the chaps here:- http://www.tamiyaclub.com/default.asp

Smaller front wheels?

I finished my new build, no stickers yet but they'll not be long.

Without a doubt

Thats how mine sat for about that long too. It always looked so sad like an old champion that had been forgotten about. So I thought sod it my next lot of rc expenditure and effort is going into a restoration.

This is my 959 that I've just finished restoring, it was very battered at the start. and now Xeostar

Thanks big gaz that's them alright. I remember the name now you said it and it is for an old tamiya

Hi, I'm looking to get some reproduction decals and I remember a company that sold on the bay had a great reputation for good quality ones. I've had a look but they don't seem to be listing at the moment and I can't remember the company name to track them down, anybody know who it might have been? Cheers Xeostar.

Check out this site. You should find everything you'll need for a custom project (if you've got the money) http://store.rc4wd.com/Scale-Crawler-Axle_c_12.html

Yep, as others have said don't grease dog bones, you'll end up with a grit grinding paste. If you've got boots on the shafts then that could work if they are a good seal. You might be ok with an indoor race car but not for bashing.

Don't get a 5mm pinion its a 4mm shaft on your linked motor, so that wont work at all. Go for the one Mr G said and then get a 5mm pinion.

These are the ones I'd be looking at considering your requirements:- http://www.modelspor...roduct_id=34931 http://www.modelspor...roduct_id=32872 Probably the latter would be my preference even thought its not always considered a buggy it can be lowered and its very capable.

As a engineer you really should know better than saying all that, its confused on so many levels.

+ 1 for the revo, I don't think you'll regret it.

The Tamiya thing is a Madcap from about 1990 it's just a little nostalgic for me. One of my mates had one when we were kids and we used to bash it along with my 959 and a terra scorcher all day long. I got this one new built (not run) from ebay for £85 which I thought was too good to pass up. Its going to sit next to my car when its restored on their shelf in my workshop. :-) http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180602255323&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

The zoom function just sets the maximum display speed on the gauge, for example if you have a crawler doing 5mph max there no point having a speed gauge going up to 60mph. The roll out function is just a factor that converts the rpm of the thing you are measuring with the sensor to speed in mph of the model. From the manual:- Method A • Mark the clutch bell that the sensor is reading from with a small reference mark. A marker works well. • Set the car next to a ruler and at 0” then roll the car forward by hand, counting each revolution of the reference mark. At exactly 10 revolutions stop the car. • Measure the exact distance that the car traveled in ten revolutions and divide this distance by 10 (e.g. 12.0” divided by 10 = 1.20”). • Adjust the Roll Out value until 1.20 appears on the screen. Now all the rpm related functions will be displayed in mph or km/h. Method B For this method you either need to know the internal gear ratio (normally provided in the vehicle’s manual) or be able to calculate the ratio via the number of teeth on the gears. It is also necessary to calculate the circumference (distance around) the tire. Once the internal ratio is known, and the circumference in inches has been determined, simply divide the circumference by the internal ratio and use this value as the conversion. To calculate circumference—multiply 3.14 x the tire’s diameter in inches. To calculate internal gear ratio—divide the larger gear by the small gear. With multiple gear transmissions, it is necessary to multiply each of the larger to smaller gear reduction ratios to arrive at the final ratio. Zoom - The Zoom setting sets the maximum range or boundary of the Speed unit. Note: The Telemetry screen displays the maximum recorded speed from the point that the receiver was turned on. To reset the maximum recorded speed, it is necessary to turn off the receiver, then back on.

I bet I'm the only one who got one of these ;-)

This is what you need for snow!!!!

I thought about a Blizzard but thought it might be a little too different. If its not then its certainly the snow machine to have and very cool to boot.