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J.K

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Everything posted by J.K

  1. Spektrum all the way for me - i've got the DX5R and DX5 Rugged. The quality is way above the Flysky stuff IMO. The genuine DSMR receivers are a lot cheaper than they used to be - about £23 for the new SR215 2ch's. My personal view on radio's is similar to buying ditchfinder tyres on performance 1:1 cars. We spend a lot of money on these RC's and they're getting more and more powerful. Relying on budget radio gear to keep these things under control is a false economy IMO
  2. Welcome! DT-03 looks awesome, almost too good to use! 1/8 nitro racing quickly becomes addictive - you can type your postcode into the club search function on the BRCA website and find your closest tracks
  3. I have one on my Kraton that I won on the forum. Great quality and I agree with your point that the holes aren't exactly right. I haven't used it yet so it'll be interesting to see how they hold up
  4. Either 4s or 6s is suitable for 1:8 buggies, 4s being the sweet spot IMO. As you've found, 6s is quite a step up in power but generally costs more in the long run because you tend to break it more Do you know what KV the motor is? Around 2000kv on 4s is my go-to combination. Reducing pinion size or increasing spur gear teeth will reduce the top end speed but give you greater acceleration. It could also work out to be a little more reliable in the long run since you'll reduce running temps a bit. If you want to stick with 6s you could always limit the throttle range on your transmitter? Would be a bit of a waste of the 6s power though! Personally, i'd go 4s (either 2x2s or a single 4s brick)
  5. Hope you win the XR8, i've got the Plus in my buggy and it's a beast! Do you have a motor to go with it?
  6. Nice! What you running? Get some pics up! 🙂
  7. New to me HPI RS4 3 Evo. My RC poster girl from my mid-teens, always wanted one! I put a cheeky bid on this relatively mint example and won it unexpectedly Engine runs, but terribly. I reckon it's got an air leak somewhere. Otherwise it's in excellent condition considering it's a 16 year old RC! To-Do list: Investigate and fix suspected air leak New genuine HPI air filter to replace chav spec aftermarket one New fuel tube Replace stock FM radio with Spektrum 2.4ghz Replace drift tyres with proper on-road touring rubber Maybe a new shell to keep the OG one nice Those green zip-ties around the purple exhaust coupling really annoy me so they'll be changed to black
  8. Postie just delivered this - HPI RS4 3 Evo. Now this was literally my poster girl of RC back in my mid teens. I drooled over this beaut in the glossy Modelsport brochure you used to be able to get (remember those?!) but I never owned one - always the one that got away! Put in a cheeky bid on eBay for this mint one, not expecting to win it and here she is! Nitro, 2 speed, close to 50mph stock - what's not to love?! Can't wait for a bit of retro RC!
  9. Lovely bit of kit! Will she be ready to race by Friday? 😉
  10. Yesterday the track finally opened for the first time in nearly 6 months! Had an absolute blast practicing in preparation for race day on Friday 🙂
  11. If you're looking for a track to race at then your best bet would be to stick your postcode into the track search function of the BRCA website
  12. You should have two plugs coming from your ESC - plug each of your batts into those for 6s. If you had one single 4s pack for example, you'd use the "loop" on one of the plugs
  13. Yup as above really. The method I use is after running I remove the glow plug, put 3 or 4 drops of after run oil ("ARO") down into the cylinder then gently pull the pullstart a few times to get a nice coating on the liner. I also remove the air filter and put a few drops down into the carb then a couple more pulls on the pull start to coat the crank and bearings. Then replace the plug and filter and you're good to go If you're planning on running the following day then I wouldn't bother but it's good practice if you're not likely to be running for a week or longer 🙂
  14. Holy cow. Awesome effort!
  15. 16% will be fine puts a little less stress on the engine too. Good idea purchasing the oils, id forgotten about those! After run oil is particularly important, especially if you're leaving it a few weeks/months between running. Enjoy!
  16. Welcome to the club! If you haven't bought one already, a nitro starter kit is pretty important, something like these: https://www.modelsport.co.uk/starter-packs/rc-car-categories/9930/993040 That kit gives you almost everything you'll need. Have you bought your fuel? I'd recommend 20% nitro for that size of engine. 25% will give a little more performance but will also cost more. Make sure you're confident in how to perform the engine break-in. The more time and patience you spend here the longer your engine will last. There're loads of youtube vids out there to help. Best of luck, we're here if you ever need a hand!
  17. I saw a Kronos in the flesh for the first time last week - went for a bash with two lads who had them. No word of a lie they both spent almost the whole day fixing them while I smashed 8 packs through my Kraton (non EXB). The Kronos is definitely faster than my Kraton but I wasn't overly impressed if i'm honest!
  18. Finally gathered the determination to clean my Firestorm after a rather grubby bash last week! A moderate fuel leak attracted all the dust and dirt even more than usual! A good couple of hours work Before: After:
  19. The Arrma Skinz I won on the forum arrived from @Nick today! Awesome quality, really pleased with it! Stuck it straight onto the Kraton:
  20. RC Modelz is where my money would go. https://www.rcmodelz.co.uk and probably one of the KM models, basically a HPI baja clone so spares are everywhere. Nitrotek only sell cheap tat unfortunately.
  21. What battery are you using? Using a lipo RX receiver battery will eventually fry non-lip compatible servos for example. Also, your receiver all good? If it's dud it could fry your servos.
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