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Want one !

If it's the Kenjo Drift motor, you'll be fine. I use a couple of these in my cars and one in my Wraith and they are great. Nice, smooth and powerfull. Plus, if it wears out there's a guy called Igbandy who is a miracle worker when it comes to motor rebuilds.

I think he made that servo look like a pile of crap too in the vid he ruined it I'm guessing it wasn't cheep too I just strip the servo down and rebuild it with silicone sealant on all the case joints Kev

Just a quick hello as I'm new to the forum but have tinkered with rc cars from an early age and still going now I'm 34 Had many rc cars over the years from Tamiya buggys to Kyosho but like the older vintage type cars/ buggys I'm running a very hopped up Tamiya manta ray as a basher and just sold a nice Kyosho lazer but hopefully on the look out for a few more vintage car/ buggys to add to the collection soon

shelf queen it is then.

chris cherish it while it lasts, it will never be this clean again.

If u want to build a kit, then the losi ten scte is ideal. A good basher and racer in one, upgrades available as you go and your choice of powerplant too.......and they run rings around the slash......4wd ftw

Still the most fun with ya clothes on lol

If it rains at a race meeting, I just give everything a good dolop of silicone spray. My RX is in a balloon in the box and that is sealed as best I can with silicone goo.

Wish a was joining ya,s all !! Good tp meet ya mate , normal service will resume shortly and al be back !!

its me mate im the one you had the ae86 shell and all the other bits off if you can meet me on sunday same bus stop as before you can have them and i have the heatshrink for them aswell bleddyn

Haha that would be good to see aswell lol..... Oj

Why not use the real thing? Its not like its expensive. And these models we drive are precision bits of kit, you wouldn't try running your real car on some concoction of mazola, petrol and shampoo on the off-chance of saving a couple of quid.

Never put the seats in mine so dunno mate :-/ Not sure bout the part number but in the next hour will be putting a brand new set of the spare powerstrokes up for sale ;-) there the slash 4x4 ones you use as these are a perfec fit with a slight mod to the rears. The sc8-wp died due to over gearing with a pinion that was too big :-( it started to smoke and that was it never worked properly again :-( so have a new one on the way now :-) and will use the old one as spares.

Sounds like the Hyper could do with some experimentation with the setup, almost any RC can be tuned to perform how you want it to provided the essential adjustment changes have been provided for in the design. Get the Tyre choice, Camber, Caster, Spring rate, dampening and everything else right for your track layout and surface conditions and you should find the difference isn't as big as you would imagine. Articles like this will help you understand all the dynamics at work in the suspension geometry of your car, what they affect, and how you can affect them to get what you want out of your machine. http://users.telenet.be/elvo/ http://www.rctech.ne...0-post1589.html The Hyper IS however always going to have more mass from more bulky and durable components such as the plain non lightened diff cases which flex less easily, but that gives you better durability in those areas, for example a Losi has diff cases which have a lot of the material shaped away for lightening the rotating mass in the drivetrain, and unless you shim them just right your likely to have issues with them. But the lighter weight is worth it in competetive racing, where every tiny edge means a lot, provided your willing to put up with the extra effort involved, EG shimming the diffs perfectly. For just getting into racing, the Hyper Will serve you fine. It will get your foot in the door, Give you something to learn the basics of tuning for track conditions on, Be durable and reliable enough for the abuse you will put it though as you get used to driving around a track..... And when you are to ready to pick out a modern cutting edge thoroughbred such as a High End Kyosho, Mugen, Assosiated, Losi, Xray, Durango, Hotbodies or otherwise, you will have experienced enough to have a good idea which would suit you best. And once you move on to a new racing platform, You will still have the Hyper with it's durable construction, and dirt cheap massively available Ebay chopshop spare parts and cheap strong

Well, if the 2s packs can be used in your 1/10 then i'd go for those as you'll get more se out of them, plus like you said, they've got a better c rating I'm not a genius when it comes to lipo's but to me that makes sense (does that sentence above make me sound a bit of an arrogant prick? I didnt mean it to sound like that. I really dont know that much other that the basics about lipo's)

A decently upgraded Savage can run to

Amazing how much it looks like a virus with the ansmann parts on it but looks good

And here he is, lol.

RC4WD Gelande Land Rover Defender 90 RC Offroad Adventures - RC Scale Trucks Series Location: Segar Track Date: 09 Dec 2012 The Rig: RC4WD Gelande 1:10 Scale Land Rover Defender 90 Manage to take some clips of this sweet Land Rover Defender 90 mounted on RC4WD Gelande Chassis. Check it out! Thanks for watching! Who are we? We are a group of passionate RC enthusiasts coming together weekly for RC fun. Keep RC-ing!!!

if you get a imax b6 charger{i would look at the hobbyking chargers}then that will charge anything,rule of thumb for nihms is 1600mah 1.6 amps,and yes these chargers will stop when the charge is done,all i say is expenad your serach for a charger,here the hobbyking site,http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__216__408__Battery_Chargers_Acc_-Battery_Chargers.html ,

the only air cooler that will match the corsair h80i is Noctua NHD-14 and that's only

the price of mine was the cheapest i could find an x for 150-160 delivered i looked around for about 2 weeks to find that one. good look finding a runner for 100!

great advice guys thanks you popped to my local ( model shop now lol) and couldnt belive that actual had a 21t double there the anasman drift motor and 12t anasman esc as well. and they were cheaper than i have seen them on line. theres a first for verything. rite so now im all sorted for the motor esc battery and conectors my next question is gearing. where do you go with this? 22t pinion and 58t spur a good place to start?

Pretty much spot on fella, will say this though, if you aint using that battery for a few days, set it to storage charge on the charger and do it, lipo's shouldnt be left full up if your not intending to use them.

tbh its personal preference. brushed i prefer that all out speed off brushless. i run a 23 turn tz super stock tamiya motor and a 15t speedo. there is a reason for the sprint 2 coming with a 15t motor - they are pap. i got a free 20t version you can have price of postage they are that crap tbh. it is no where near a good a decent rebuildable brushed motor,

Got my new GoPro 3 camera working with the iPhone app so it can be operated remotely Next step .... Looking forward to getting it fixed into the 5ive t

I've never yet seen a waterPROOF servo of the type most large scale cars use and I doubt I ever will. The best anyone could hope for is splash proof.

Got a nice order with modelsport coming soon aswell. Got myself a hyper 7 (thought I would try my hand at nitro now I have a decent electric setup) along with trophy spares and bits for scx10.

cant beat a madrat for value for money,i run a 9t hobby whatsits in mine and it is very fast,done an outdoor 10th meeting with it 18months ago and it was as fast or faster than alot of higher spec cars,in a straight line it was rapid but due to wrong springs it lost out on the corners and jumps,now its all sorted with better shocks and springs it does work really well,not bad for a car that stands me less than

Im off charging for a bit now. See ya byeeeee

great build

nope my hyper is a nitro

enough people its a friendly forum!

Cheers guys

Still don;t direct a jetwash or hose at the leccy bits even after you waterproof it. Great way to get water in.... you can't fully seal the case. PAcking the gears with grease or similar will keep the splash out.

Marry Christmas to you too

Give you

http://www.monkeyracing.cz/ Custom made though, no idea if they sell them and they are in the Czech Republic.

Sorry, But I really don't like that at all, looks very bodged and doesn't look like it would be as strong. Another concern is the battery placement and being a little more open, bodyshell choice may also become an issue (although that looks like its been done to accommodate 1/10 TC shells? Here is my proposed true track kit design, using 3mm and 4mm screws all over vs stock MERV m2 and m2.5. I know the hub design isn't ideal, however to offset material and machining cost its the best balance i could come up with. I want to make it some what atheistically pleasing too. Simulation in CAD shows no binding, but lets make one and test it in the real world. Here is the picture. ( I opted for an alloy hub and HDPE wishbones.

small quads are good to learn with. cost is low. electronics on one board. come pre mixed and rtf. even the other half can fly it just as good as you. FPV first person view, this is usually via a set of goggles the user wears. a HUD, head up display gives info as battery voltage, compass bearing, altitude, speed, direction. this kind of setup can be cheap but needs careful planning. you need two seperate wavebands one to control model, the other to send and recieve video signal. POV this is a bit like FPV but you do not get a live view front seat. your camera is recording the footage to a memorycard. it captures the flight from the models point of view. you only need one bandwave. your camera does not feed a signal. the FPV is more hard core flight. you feel as your the model itself. POV is more photogenic and/or for recording. you fly around and download, footage after nly then you see what you captured. take a gander at this setup and flight

The irony.

Think this will do the job? http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2c5fb75c41 Cheap as chips but wouldn't leave much room for error! Edit: Took a gamble and have bought a sheet of the above. 610mm x 2m - So enough room for one mistake! lol Cheers lads!

I reckon that ESC just isn't up to the job. Cheap crap.

Just a quick update of the crappy motor mount that comes as stock................... Sent it back to axail and currently waiting for a new one but in the meantime i bought a Vanquish motor mount from usa and have fitted it today heres some pics to show how much better it is to stock as its a full mount rather than a crappy slide one Just waiting on my Sc8 esc now and then can get everything ready for a test of the motor mount

Put new body wheels and pro line wing on my ansmann deuce