HPI Bullet Owners Club

[3.0dundee]

well finaly gonna get out with my bullet today after managing to sort the pull cord see how long it lasts lol having to jerrry rig the body on as front body posts have snapped off from last bash session,think after i have used up the ast of my nitro gonna strip it down give it a gd service and order in a few parts for her along with a new shell lol

[mattvrx1]

Hello all I just got myself a brand new mt flux and sold my firestorm and ftx carnage .

I went for a bash last night and I'm impressed I ran two 2s batterys through it and its great jumps great . great power . Great grip . Steering servo not so good very under powered but high torque upgrade and I will be well happy wish I got one in the first place now .

[tolysk8]

Hello. I

[tolysk8]

Congrats man. You have made a hard work and have to much courage.

New to your forum, but not to RC... I'm in the US, hope that's ok.

This is a long read, with a fair amount of pics. I set a goal and I achieved that goal.

Ever since I went with a 4S capable setup in the Bullet MT Flux I have been trying to come up with a way to make it faster, smoother, etc.
The first idea was to use the center diff out of the Trophy Truggy. At the time of this idea, the Trophy series was new to N. American shores. All of the parts were not yet available, to rebuild the center diff, along with the various braces and spacer plates needed. After waiting a couple of months to see if parts would come in, I decided to take the CD out of my Trophy. With some test fitting it proved to be too much modification to make it work, and a little pricey.

HPI released the WR8 Flux and I had the opportunity to view one at a local shop. That inspection gave me an idea to use the CD out of the WR8. I downloaded the operator manual from HPI and began comparing parts to the Bullet. I found myself again waiting for parts to come in stock for just the WR8 CD parts. I was going to buy the parts for the CD and swap out the slipper assembly for the CD on the Bullet. With all of this investigation I found (listed on HPI's site) that the WR8 uses an extended Bullet chassis. Light bulbs everywhere start going off.
The WR8 uses the same diff assemblies as the Bullet Nitro & Flux models, as well as the same diffs that are in the Savage XS. The center diff uses the same distance between the carriers, the same bearing size front and rear, and the same front carrier. The WR8 has a different motor mount but the holes in the chassis are identical. The WR8 uses a slightly longer rear dog bone, and the same length front dog bone.
Inner hinge pins are the same length as the Bullet and everything as it mounts to the diff cases are identical. The WR8 uses different shock towers and A-Arms but the inside A-Arm mount is the same as the Bullet.
One limiting factor on the Bullet chassis is the goofy battery box / RX cubby / ESC mount. The WR8 has a slightly wider chassis pan, with buggy style stone guards and a Vorza / Apache / Trophy adjustable battery tray. That tray is way too wide for the standard Bullet chassis pan and there are no hole provisions for it.

I began looking at the layout of the WR8 and how they got the tray on there, where the ESC was, and rx placement. At this point I decided to do the unthinkable. I ordered a WR8 Flux RTR to dismantle and rebuild as an extended Bullet MT Flux. Basically I'm building the Bullet how HPI should have in the first place.

So, results of some comparison of the WR8 to the Bullet, and the Nitro MT2 show as far as I'm concerned, that the WR8 should have been called WR10. As I questioned from day one with it coming with a 1/10th power system, the WR10 is almost identical to the MT2 for wheelbase. The MT2 is known as 1/10. Wheelbase compared to the Bullet is about 1 inch longer overall. The body is very close to 200mm like a typical 1/10 onroad vehicle. Honestly the only thing that is 1/8 on the WR8 is the battery tray. The velcro straps aren't even from the Vorza, but rather a shorter version with the cute little Ken Block skull logo. lol.







I started tearing down the 2 vehicles. The initial plan is to swap Bullet A-arm assemblies (links, shocks, etc), shock towers & body mounts to the WR8 diff cases. This is all a direct bolt-on with no modification necessary. This is the case for front and rear.





Next, we'll take the motor mount plate and front "diff" carrier along with the top plate from the Bullet and transfer these items to the WR8, swapping out the slipper assembly for the center diff assembly. My Castle Mamba Max Pro fits nicely in the ESC tray and will be held down by the strap. The stock RX box is huge and I thought it was going to be left off to allow the 70mm long 1415 motor can to fit. I was able to rotate the RX box 90* and use servo tape and 1 out of the 3 stock screws to secure it to the plate. The power system I'm using isn't waterproof so an RX box is basically just to keep dirt out of the RX.










Completed, with body mounted.




WR8 leftovers



The stock shocks are getting replaced soon. Gmade XD diaphragm shocks are on their way (yes, 8 of them). I also have some replacement body posts coming. Once HPI brings the alloy goodies like bearing carriers and new braces, those will go on this beast too.

The 1415 motor is also going to get fitted with a 5mm rotor assembly so I have a better range of mod1 pinions to choose from. Gearing is currently 15/46 and it pulls wheelies on 4S.
At this point I think this truck is one of the most versatile that I have. It

[Silent D]

Thank you tolysk8.

[tolysk8]

As owner of a bullet I can say that the quality of plastic parts from original suspension system are sucks (s h i t ). The quality of these pieces does not match the power of the engine. By buying this car inevitably you will have to replace them with metal parts. Too much plastic to much power!

[mattvrx1]

All the cars are mostly plastic you just need to drive them properly and use them for what they are ment for . If you stick a jumbo jet engine in a mini your going to have problems . Don't crash then moan that its broken be realistic buy a few spare parts so you can fix it mid bash its all part of the fun !

Edited April 16, 2013 by mattvrx1

[wasemoo]

All the cars are mostly plastic you just need to drive them properly and use them for what they are ment for . If you stick a jumbo jet engine in a mini your going to have problems . Don't crash then moan that its broken be realistic buy a few spare parts so you can fix it mid bash its all part of the fun !

 

i have the bullet for six months  and iv broke some FRONT HUB CARRIERS  for 2 time because in drove it in very high speed and in tight places  other than that its very amazing and i dont think there is  a similar rc car can perform  such as the bullet 

 

and i have the nitro one  i take it to the field  bash and do some jumps  at end of the day it gets dirty  and the body betwen the enigen and gear  area they are full of dust  mud etc ...

 

i put it in the shower i give it a bath with a hot boiling water  and dry it very well  and it will look like it just came out of the box 

[mattvrx1]

Just been for 3rd bash with my bullet mt flux had a few crashes and landed on roof a few times . 30 mins run time out of a 5300mah 2s and no broken parts again

Going to address the flexy body posts because shell moves over and rubs on wheel one way but not broken a post yet :-)

Edited April 16, 2013 by mattvrx1

[twistedrh]

Most of the broken parts are caused by driving. Mine where all with full throttle crashes. But people that owes rc cars have to understand that they are driving a car to it's maximum.

In real dimensions every time a team takes a car to a race at the end has to fix the car. Same principal with rc cars.

And my opinion is that half of the fun that i get is at home when i make my car 1000 parts, clean it, fix it and place it back together.

As for tolysk8 he has a point. There are better quality plastic parts but you can find it in more expensive cars or in 1/8 scale. And the aluminium parts make the car stronger but less flexible.

[mattvrx1]

[Silent D]

I have one of those rocket powered RCs (well I have a few).  My Bullet ST Flux runs on 8th scale motor with a 4S 5000mah 40C pack.  It has a center diff and CVDs.  I have broken one rear carrier.  I figured out how to make Axial Exo rear carriers work, giving you the option of STRC aluminum parts for the rear.  But, I have since had issues with one of the CVDs popping out from the diff.  I put the HPI alloy rear carriers on and now I won't have the issue.

 

 

Looking into the Asia Tees GPM parts and I wish they had the front carriers in stock.  The bearing mod is the same as my mod for Axial rear carriers.  I however don't understand why GPM doesn't offer rear carriers for the MT2 as well.

 

Geared 16 / 46 this truck will wheely on command at any speed with a center diff.  I'm ordering the parts to stretch my other Bullet this week as well.  The WR8 chassis with it's added length helps the stability of this truck tremendously.

 

One thing to add to the discussion of broken parts and what one should expect is that you also have to expect that when you do solve your most common breakage (plastic carriers upgraded to alloy), you should expect that the next week link will become the problematic part.  Fix something that's constantly breaking and you find the next part (usually connected) that will now break because the first part can't.

 

 

Speaking of the amount of plastic in this truck, I contacted RPM to see if they would consider making arms for the Bullet given that one set of arms covers (4) vehicles (and possibly the MT2?) and they said that their parts for HPI vehicles are not profitable.   This baffled me somewhat coming from a manufacturer that makes a product with a lifetime warranty.

[tolysk8]

I have one of those rocket powered RCs (well I have a few).  My Bullet ST Flux runs on 8th scale motor with a 4S 5000mah 40C pack.  It has a center diff and CVDs.  I have broken one rear carrier.  I figured out how to make Axial Exo rear carriers work, giving you the option of STRC aluminum parts for the rear.  But, I have since had issues with one of the CVDs popping out from the diff.  I put the HPI alloy rear carriers on and now I won't have the issue.

 

 

Looking into the Asia Tees GPM parts and I wish they had the front carriers in stock.  The bearing mod is the same as my mod for Axial rear carriers.  I however don't understand why GPM doesn't offer rear carriers for the MT2 as well.

 

Geared 16 / 46 this truck will wheely on command at any speed with a center diff.  I'm ordering the parts to stretch my other Bullet this week as well.  The WR8 chassis with it's added length helps the stability of this truck tremendously.

 

One thing to add to the discussion of broken parts and what one should expect is that you also have to expect that when you do solve your most common breakage (plastic carriers upgraded to alloy), you should expect that the next week link will become the problematic part.  Fix something that's constantly breaking and you find the next part (usually connected) that will now break because the first part can't.

 

 

Speaking of the amount of plastic in this truck, I contacted RPM to see if they would consider making arms for the Bullet given that one set of arms covers (4) vehicles (and possibly the MT2?) and they said that their parts for HPI vehicles are not profitable.   This baffled me somewhat coming from a manufacturer that makes a product with a lifetime warranty.

Silent D you are right. But the plastic parts broke so fast.... i have replaced it for aluminum in front with parts from hsp and they are durable and i

Edited April 22, 2013 by tolysk8

[Silent D]

Could you tell us the part number or the web site for that

[tolysk8]

Those are Gmade XD Shocks, 103mm.  They have 3 models (numerous lengths).  These are the diaphragm version.  They also have piggy backs & aeration style.  I bought mine from a distributor here in the US.  They are on ebay as well, Gmade is from South Korea.

 

After seeing the MT2 front carrier mod, I'm wondering if the MT2 arms that GPM make fit the Bullet?  I can tell you however that the MT2 dogbones are about 3-4 mm too short.  So if the MT2 arms work with the Bullet diffs, you may have to use MT2 dogbones and shorten the tierods as the arms might be shorter.  In my experience, alloy arms are not worth it.  The Bullet arms are sold as a set and aren't that expensive.  I'd rather break plastic than bend alloy.

 

I sent another email to RPM today, inquiring about what it would take for a minimum order to get them to make a set of arms for the Bullet line.

ok. Tks for... maybe plastic arm in front and alloy in the back since my jumps and hits damage most in front... I find a great add in ebay for this shocks.... Are you think they are great for

[Silent D]

the diaphragm version is the only one that has alloy shock body AND alloy cap.  The other versions have plastic caps.  I have their piggy back shocks on my Wraith.  These on the Bullet have withstood my abuse on 4S.  Do not let their price deceive you, they are very nice.  Slightly larger diameter than stock as well.  You will need longer upper shock bolts, and add washers as the Gmade shock caps have larger holes.  I run 40WT oil in all 8 shocks.

[twistedrh]

Those are Gmade XD Shocks, 103mm.  They have 3 models (numerous lengths).  These are the diaphragm version.  They also have piggy backs & aeration style.  I bought mine from a distributor here in the US.  They are on ebay as well, Gmade is from South Korea.

 

After seeing the MT2 front carrier mod, I'm wondering if the MT2 arms that GPM make fit the Bullet?  I can tell you however that the MT2 dogbones are about 3-4 mm too short.  So if the MT2 arms work with the Bullet diffs, you may have to use MT2 dogbones and shorten the tierods as the arms might be shorter.  In my experience, alloy arms are not worth it.  The Bullet arms are sold as a set and aren't that expensive.  I'd rather break plastic than bend alloy.

 

I sent another email to RPM today, inquiring about what it would take for a minimum order to get them to make a set of arms for the Bullet line.

As I said to a previous post alloy parts are stronger but you loose flexibility. And silent D is right that you just transfer the problem to another part. But i decided to place alloy front carriers and keep the plastic arms to absorb the power of the impact and avoid a bended carrier. I didn't find time to test it in hard conditions and I can't tell you if my thinking is correct in real action. But i couldn't keep the plastic carriers because they brake to easy. Alloy carriers don't bend with low speed crashes, plastic brake.

[Silent D]

As I said to a previous post alloy parts are stronger but you loose flexibility. And silent D is right that you just transfer the problem to another part. But i decided to place alloy front carriers and keep the plastic arms to absorb the power of the impact and avoid a bended carrier. I didn't find time to test it in hard conditions and I can't tell you if my thinking is correct in real action. But i couldn't keep the plastic carriers because they brake to easy. Alloy carriers don't bend with low speed crashes, plastic brake.

Alloy carriers are common as an upgrade.  HPI wants $75 for their front C-hub. !  We're stuck with plastic stock arms, unless the MT2 alloy fit.

 

 

Unless we can get about 3000 people together for a RPM purchase we won't be seeing RPM arms for the Bullet.

[mattvrx1]

5 pound for front c hubs rather than 30 ish for alloy think I will just keep some spare

[mattvrx1]

Picture from today

Edited April 28, 2013 by mattvrx1

[mattvrx1]

[tolysk8]

Hello.

I just like to show you some aluminum HSP parts in my Bullet. Very cheap.

Edited April 28, 2013 by tolysk8

[mattvrx1]

Where did you get those parts from are they bullet parts or mt2 ?

[tolysk8]

neither, they are from a chinese brand named HSP. I bought on ebay.

 

Where did you get those parts from are they bullet parts or mt2 ?

[mattvrx1]

Just fitted two servo extenders so I don't have to un seal my receiver box when a servo dyes or to remove esc and battery tray for cleaning etc