HPI Trophy Truggy and Buggy Owners Club!

[dazp1976]

Sorry double post

I'm using the HPI SF-50 in the pdf linked below. The dimensions look almost identical so yes to both.

http://www.hpiracing.com/assets/documents/instruction_manuals/105794-sf50-glb-m-v1.pdf

Edited February 14, 2015 by dazp1976

[dazp1976]

looking at two servos please help me out and tell me what one will fit, I don't know how to past URLS so the servo is on wheelspin and the item codes are SAV-SW0230MG and the other one is SAV-SW0231MG please have a look and help me out before I purchase the wrong one.

I'm using the HPI SF-50 in the pdf linked below. The dimensions look almost identical so yes to both.

http://www.hpiracing.com/assets/documents/instruction_manuals/105794-sf50-glb-m-v1.pdf

[stevo2551]

I'll give a couple of 4mm a try, the standards are only 2mm (just got the measuring stick out) they have vibrated about abit and elongated the plastic diff holes a little too, tried filling the hole with superglue, then screws...but came loose. it needs a stripdown and clean tomorrow anyway as it's filthy and a few bits to fettle

[dazp1976]

I'll give a couple of 4mm a try, the standards are only 2mm (just got the measuring stick out) they have vibrated about abit and elongated the plastic diff holes a little too, tried filling the hole with superglue, then screws...but came loose. it needs a stripdown and clean tomorrow anyway as it's filthy and a few bits to fettle

If you look on the Vorza manual on HPI the screws are M4x15mm pictured below the cheapest available are in link number 1.Or you can get non HPI ones in link number 2 as you can get 20 for

[dazp1976]

I'll give a couple of 4mm a try, the standards are only 2mm (just got the measuring stick out) they have vibrated about abit and elongated the plastic diff holes a little too, tried filling the hole with superglue, then screws...but came loose. it needs a stripdown and clean tomorrow anyway as it's filthy and a few bits to fettle

Mines in bits at the minute too after snapping that motor mount I need to sell some more bits off of my ebay before I can fix it ;)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/maybee_baybee/m.html?item=191505126055&ssPageName=STRK%3AMESELX%3AIT&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562

Edited February 14, 2015 by dazp1976

[stevo2551]

My head must of been a mess last night haha, can I go longer on the bottom diff mounting screws? I was meaning 20mm long screws are in it now but they're crap. I do confuse things at times :-P I was mixing mm and cm up for some strange reason. As the screws your suggesting are only 1.5cm or 15mm in length and shorter, but possibly thicker through the length as opposed to a Phillips screw that tapers?

I was flicking through eBay and noticed dazp on a peice of paper....but it didn't register in my brain at the time, every time I try and buy a roller for spare parts...some Bugger outbids me and I give up and loose it. I'll be calling in at the sewing shop for a length of Velcro strap (20p from there) as I need a third battery strap with these ones having longer wires. And possibly go to 'rothwells' my local screw merchant and pick some m4's up if maximum length I can get away with. A bit of a silly question, are diff cases (front in this case) one peice or two halves?

Edited February 14, 2015 by stevo2551

[dazp1976]

My head must of been a mess last night haha, can I go longer on the bottom diff mounting screws? I was meaning 20mm long screws are in it now but they're crap. I do confuse things at times :-P I was mixing mm and cm up for some strange reason. As the screws your suggesting are only 1.5cm or 15mm in length and shorter, but possibly thicker through the length as opposed to a Phillips screw that tapers?

I was flicking through eBay and noticed dazp on a peice of paper....but it didn't register in my brain at the time, every time I try and buy a roller for spare parts...some Bugger outbids me and I give up and loose it. I'll be calling in at the sewing shop for a length of Velcro strap (20p from there) as I need a third battery strap with these ones having longer wires. And possibly go to 'rothwells' my local screw merchant and pick some m4's up if maximum length I can get away with. A bit of a silly question, are diff cases (front in this case) one peice or two halves?

Diff cases are 2 piece units they come apart where the shock tower is this applies to both ends. Do not use screws that are too long to attach them to the chassis because they go through and touch the ring gear jamming it or causing severe binding issues.

Edited February 14, 2015 by dazp1976

[stevo2551]

That was my line of thinking, I didn't want to be fixing one thing by using longer screws but causing a new problem somewhere else. It's raining here today anyway so I'm not in any rush to go out and play, think I'll go get that strap and a few screws and have a fiddle once the Mrs goes to work at dinner. Can't really afford to buy any bits more than a couple of quid at the mo as my 1:1 golf needs new discs and pads in the next week....

[stevo2551]

Off topic....you've gotta be a cal crutchlow fan? Lol

[Deafty]

If u use m4's for the suspension plate connecting both halfs of the diff case (bulkhead) together.  The long ones that snap and bend.    You must trim the inner lip where the screw comes through or the case won't close correctly.

[stevo2551]

....I think at one point there used to be some grease in this diff...

[dazp1976]

....I think at one point there used to be some grease in this diff...

It is usually recommended

[stevo2551]

I've never needed to pull one apart before, and was unsure so left it be, last time out it seemed to be bleeding power to the front and ballooning my front tyres more than usual, I knew my front diff case was in need of repair, so I started there first. All the bits inside all look fine (says Stevie wonder here) but no oil, just...well, I know there probably was once greese in there but there's not much left. so I'm guessing it's still stock and probably been like that for a while.

so....the question is diff oils, I know this thread's been over this subject plenty of times over the years, do you have any recommendations for f/c/r please :-) I know it's more individual personal preference, I prefer more power to the rear if that's any help :-D

I will strip all three down in time but whilst it's apart I may as well...

[dazp1976]

I've never needed to pull one apart before, and was unsure so left it be, last time out it seemed to be bleeding power to the front and ballooning my front tyres more than usual, I knew my front diff case was in need of repair, so I started there first. All the bits inside all look fine (says Stevie wonder here) but no oil, just...well, I know there probably was once greese in there but there's not much left. so I'm guessing it's still stock and probably been like that for a while.

so....the question is diff oils, I know this thread's been over this subject plenty of times over the years, do you have any recommendations for f/c/r please :-) I know it's more individual personal preference, I prefer more power to the rear if that's any help :-D

I will strip all three down in time but whilst it's apart I may as well...

Depends on what surface you run on most of the time and how hard you are on the throttle causing more ballooning and bash or race. I run on grass mainly and am hard on the throttle so I have 10f,30c,7r seems o.k. The 30 helps with my ballooning a bit, much higher and it wipes out on corners. A good start point is usually 7f,10c,5r which will give you good rear grip but depending on how much ballooning you get then raise/lower the center. I tried 20f,10r before now and just kept spinning out. Also I went from 1 degree to 3 degrees at the back end and now I have too much rear grip causing pushing in corners so that makes a big difference too.

Edited February 14, 2015 by dazp1976

[stevo2551]

I only play for fun, on a stone, gravel quarry, bits of bumpy fields and skatepark. I like it to slide a bit, not particularly bothered about entering tight corners and keeping racing lines and things. I make my own track haha

they differ in makes and prices, do you have a link to some your using please?

managed to get some Velcro strap for pennies, but the bloody screw shop was shut....

Edited February 14, 2015 by stevo2551

[dazp1976]

I only play for fun, on a stone, gravel quarry, bits of bumpy fields and skatepark. I like it to slide a bit, not particularly bothered about entering tight corners and keeping racing lines and things. I make my own track haha

they differ in makes and prices, do you have a link to some your using please?

managed to get some Velcro strap for pennies, but the bloody screw shop was shut....

These are the ones I currently use and surprisingly enough they're from an actual model shop and not ebay!!! It works out cheaper for the 3 if bought together combining postage. I do all my diffs at the same time everytime about twice a month so they run out equally (still on my first 3 after 8 months)

http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/72469/

http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/72456/

http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/72462/

[stevo2551]

Cheers, about twice a month? I've had this a while and never changed it, the lad I baught it off had little mechanical sympathy or knowledge so I know he's never done it either....quite supprised it's lasted so long really. I don't know if I've got the patience to order some today and wait 4 days for delivery haha I may have to do the 40 mile trip....just for the hell of it ha

Edited February 15, 2015 by stevo2551

[dazp1976]

Cheers, about twice a month? I've had this a while and never changed it, the lad I baught it off had little mechanical sympathy or knowledge so I know he's never done it either....quite supprised it's lasted so long really. I don't know if I've got the patience to order some today and wait 4 days for delivery haha I may have to do the 40 mile trip....just for the hell of it ha

It doesn't really need it that often I just like taking it to bits. Manuals say after roughly 10 packs of running is recommended.

[pug=309]

These are the ones I currently use and surprisingly enough they're from an actual model shop and not ebay!!! It works out cheaper for the 3 if bought together combining postage. I do all my diffs at the same time everytime about twice a month so they run out equally (still on my first 3 after 8 months)

http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/72469/

http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/72456/

http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/72462/

Is this 7k front, 10k middle, 30k rear?  How do these grades affect the handling?

 

 

Allan

[dazp1976]

Is this 7k front, 10k middle, 30k rear?  How do these grades affect the handling?

 

 

Allan

No. It's 10F, 30M, 7R. There is some information in the links about how they affect handling. There is a lot of info out there this was just a quick look.

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5050

http://www.myrcbox.com/articles/tech-article-diff-tuning-guide-for-buggy-and-truggy/

I basically found that any higher than 7 in my rear caused a lot of spins on corners and when on power. Any lower gave me too much traction causing understeer when on power whilst turning and it needed refilling more often as it used it up quicker.

Any higher than 30 center caused spins and wheelies on power and seemed to give more motor heat. Any lower caused a lot of ballooning by unloading to the front,. More diff heat and oil usage (cooking due to unloading) and too much rear traction.

Any higher than 10 front caused spins, oversteer when off power in corners, back end whipping round exiting corners on power. Any lower didn't seem to make a huge difference apart from inside tire ballooning badly round corners and more diff heat.

I just bash on grass, am hard on the trigger, and more or less flat out the whole time.

I've ran this setup for a while now and seems fine on most surfaces. The biggest change I made recently was going from the stock rear toe angle to an angle of about 3-4 degrees (alloy D8T blocks, arms) and hate it! serious amount of rear grip and severe understeer (pushing) when cornering on power so that has a massive impact too  Am going back to stock angles when my alloy Trophy blocks get here. These are just my basic findings and I am no expert to say the least. I run JConcept sevens half ups and AKA cityblock tires on grass and HPI Phaltlines on the road. I have Proline shockwaves for winter and MT4G3 tires for the woods but have to really gear down for both of those to about 35mph even with a Leopard 4082 1600kv on 6s because of the extra weight and heat! depressing

Edited February 15, 2015 by dazp1976

[stevo2551]

Some good guides for a quick look daz, I've been scouring the interweb all morning and I think my brains about pickled haha are you running buggy or truggy? I'm running a standard buggy flux and I see that recommendations differ slightly between the two. They do suggest to start the diff tuning at the middle, but seen as the fronts in bits I think I'm going between 5-7, do they do a 6?

[Trophy1811]

Stupid question and probably the wrong place but someone please tell me now to put URLS in the reply and pictures

[dazp1976]

Some good guides for a quick look daz, I've been scouring the interweb all morning and I think my brains about pickled haha are you running buggy or truggy? I'm running a standard buggy flux and I see that recommendations differ slightly between the two. They do suggest to start the diff tuning at the middle, but seen as the fronts in bits I think I'm going between 5-7, do they do a 6?

Hi. I run the Truggy. Yes they do a 6. Wheelspin say shadow stock though. Getting technical now   If you know roughly were you're going to go with front, center and rear you can mix oils ie: 5+7 to make 6, 3+7 to make 4, 10+5 to make 7, 30+5 to make 10  and so on. In the link is the site I use for all the info on mixing, gearing, speeds, electrics etc: On the mixing page you put the numbers in and it tells you what % of each to use

http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/oil_mixer.html

[Shiesty2000]

Has anyone used the pulse shocks on there truggy? I put them on yesterday with the yellow springs and the rear seams really soft. If I drop it from a little over knee height it bottoms out. I have 35wt in front and 45wt in rear

[stevo2551]

Good link I'll be bookmarking that page for future reference. I guess I'll see what's in stock tomorrow when I call in, somewere between 5-7k sounds a safe/reasonable place to be. Is there much difference in your opinions? I suppose it's all personal preference so I'll just go trial and error as we go :-)