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Tamiya Hornet build query


Torqueofthedevil

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Good morning all,

 

I'm a bit stuck on of assembly of a Tamiya Hornet and would be very grateful for any guidance.  In Step 7, I need to attach the piston shaft to part D13 to make the damper cylinder, but there's no screw thread inside D13, and the two pieces don't clip together.  Presumably all that's needed is some glue, but I'm just hesitant because in other steps the instructions are very clear about which tools/accessories are needed.  If glue is the answer, I have some Revell Contacta -  is that suitable, or is there a better glue to use?

 

The other thing which is slightly puzzling is that in Step 8, D13 isn't represented accurately - the actual part has a projecting rim around the hole, whereas the illustration shows it being completely flat.  This isn't a big deal, but it just makes me wonder if I'm missing something, because the other illustrations seem to be 100% accurate.

 

Many thanks in advance for any help received!

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You just beat me to it there buddy 🙂

You can cut a thread into D13 prior to fitting it onto the shaft by screwing in one of the M3 bolts (BC2) not a self tapper , first to cut the thread then unscrew it , it makes life easier when actually screwing D13 onto the shaft , as that can be a p.i.t.a.

Edited by Kev the Rev
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4 hours ago, Stormbringer said:

the part  d13 screws onto the metal shaft i am guessing d13 is plastic and the shaft will cut its own thread looking at this 

https://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcmanual/hornet.pdf

 

Many thanks for the replies.  Screwing it on would make perfect sense, but it doesn't work with the pieces I have got - the metal shaft is too small, and slides easily in and out of D13.  I don't imagine that adding a thread to the D13 would improve this - or am I missing something?!

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You should be using shaft MD9 into D13 . The MD9 should be M3 machine thread . I don't think you are pushing the MD shaft ( or pilot screw) into the D13 hard enough . I've just got out a new D13 and screwed a M3 bolt into it cutting it's own thread . There is a void at the entrance of the D13 hole , so you need to push past this with some light pressure , it shouldn't be hard . I think you'll be ok now . Check back if you have any more probs.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks again for all the help so far.  I have been away with work so I haven't been on here for more than a week.  The shocks are on - I tried all the suggestions but couldn't get them to screw on, but glue has done the trick.

 

Next annoying question:  I'm trying to get the electrics sorted out, and the motor is working fine with the controller - but the steering won't play.  When I turn on the receiver, the steering servo moves by itself to full scale deflection (clockwise) and doesn't respond to any inputs from the controller.   I'm not helped by the lack of instructions - I can't see any guidance on which port on the receiver to attach the steering servo to (unlike the ESC, where Ch 2 is specified) or even which way round to attach the cable (presumably the red/white/black matches the orientation of the ESC cable).  Really sorry to be a pain, but I'm hoping to get the car working for my boy before I have to disappear again.  With no prospect of model shops or clubs reopening soon, the expertise on here is my only hope!

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Post a pic of the servo / RX cable and which ESC you are using . Check the handset steering trim settings  . You might have attached the servo saver to the steering servo before the servo was centred . Try unscrewing the servo saver from the servo , turn on the TX and ESC . The servo will centre itself , then re-attach the servo saver with wheels straight ahead  . The plug for the steering servo may be backwards in the ESC - without pics - can't tell

Edited by Kev the Rev
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The servo saver is the white assembly that goes onto the servo shaft so if you undo the screw and take saver off the servo then switch in car the servo should centre and reattach the servo saver so wheels are reasonably straight

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4 minutes ago, Stormbringer said:

The servo saver is the white assembly that goes onto the servo shaft so if you undo the screw and take saver off the servo then switch in car the servo should centre and reattach the servo saver so wheels are reasonably straight

 

Thanks, I'll try that. Which port in the receiver should I use for the cable from the steering servo? I have got Ch1, Ch3 and Bind available 

Edited by Torqueofthedevil
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it may be the port in the receiver picture to the right of the port the esc is plugged into if it doesn work try the 1 on other side

check see if they are marked 1,2 or 3 on receiver so it would be channel 1 

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You might need to take the servo out of the chassis to get the servo saver off , but that's ok . Unclip the rods end of of the steering arms near the wheels . Check the servo is centred as said before , set your steering trim to zero I believe is centre on that handset , Check that the servo saver moves equally left to right from the centre ( as in equal steering ) then reassemble the servo and saver and refit if all seems good

Edited by Kev the Rev
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On 19/02/2021 at 12:59, Torqueofthedevil said:

I can't see any guidance on which port on the receiver to attach the steering servo to (unlike the ESC, where Ch 2 is specified) or even which way round to attach the cable (presumably the red/white/black matches the orientation of the ESC cable).

On your receiver, the steering channel is the lowest of the four ports if you view the receiver with the text right-way-up.

Plug orientation matches that of your ESC, with the black wire closest to the edge of the receiver.

 

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