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LiPo, the big guide thread *updated March '10* *


Garry

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The low voltage thing on the esc wat do ya recomend to have it on. So battery wint dip below a certain viltage per cell. Dont wanna screw them up. Had a run tonight and the thung is quick

 

It depends on your esc.  I have 3.2 set on my HW esc's as they tend to underead, and come off a bit higher.  Rarely hit lvc on the big packs though as always tend to overestimate how many packs I'll need so end up running them all a bit to get them aroundunder storage level.

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  • 1 month later...

So it would seem my losi ten scte's esc is gobbling (going below the min 3v) and eating my batterys - not good ! 3 turnigy 3s all have 3v per cell in one bank and the other bank, 0 :(.

 

Get yourself a lipo alarm if the esc's Lvc isn't working properly ( I'm assuming you have it turned on, or there is one )...

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Get yourself a lipo alarm if the esc's Lvc isn't working properly ( I'm assuming you have it turned on, or there is one )...

 

Yeah, it should be on - checked it was on with the usb adaptor... Hmm

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've read lots about LiPo batteries in preparation for using them for the first time, hopefully tomorrow. This thread as well as http://www.rctech.net/articles/tech/everything-you-need-to-know-about-electric-power-part-3-li-po-batteries/ and http://www.robotwars.00server.com/tutorials.html were all very useful.

 

Am I correct in thinking that:

 

Charging incorrectly (giving the charger the wrong information, trying to charge too quickly etc) is the main cause of LiPo fires?

Drawing more power than the battery can supply can cause a fire.

 

Everything else such as letting the battery voltage get too low or leaving it fully charged for weeks at a time will damage or ruin the battery but it won't start a fire?

 

I don't plan on doing any of those things I'm just trying to establish when I should be most paranoid.

 

I'll have a LiPo sack and was thinking of placing the battery in that (bear with me here!) on the glass plate in an unplugged microwave. That way if it went tits up I can pull the plug and shut the door.  Am I mental?

 

 

 

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Pulling way too much current for too long ( leading to the lipos overheating, swelling, then flaming up... ) and physical damage are the main things to avoid- make sure the battery tray on your model has no sharp edges or screws sticking into it, and no moving parts directly next to or over/under it which might snag the lipo. Provided the pack has a sufficient spec for your models needs, you should be fine otherwise.

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Fire is not common as people think. but there is a danger when miss treated. we the forum members must take into account some folks may not look after

electrical items like they need to be. 

 

this is why we go on about battery care so much. 

 

 

Overheat: or a thermal runaway , this is when the batterys chemistry becomes unstable , if the battery becomes to hot

it can start to run away, ie the battery heat up more and more until it cannot be contained in its sealing wrapper.

 

Damage: if the foil is cut/split/ hard dented it can cause a short inside the battery, this leads to the battery puffing up and.or a overheat runaway.

 

undercharge - overcharge  !!!!!!!!! 

 

this is where you be careful, you MUST stop using the battery when it reaches a certain voltage, if it drains to much the chemisty can become unstable and lead to overheat.

 

YOU MUST NEVER leave the battery alone to charge, you must always keep an eye on it. chargers are smart but sometimes even they fail. so keep an eye on it when charging.

do this NOT on your bedroom floor but chose a solid area like concrete floor or likes and if possible a lipo charge/storage bag ( will help contain any fire if something happens. 

 

 

LIPO ALARM !!! this device is cheap but its the best way to warn you if something is wrong when the battery is inside your car.

it will beep a warning if the battery gets to low on power - and will give you a full voltage reading and a seperate each cell voltage reading.

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Thanks Tamiyacowboy. Some people seem happy to rely on their ESC's low voltage cut off while others like the security of a LiPo alarm.

They aren't expensive though, is this the right kind of thing:

 

http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__62904__HobbyKing_8482_Cellmeter_6_Lipo_Life_Li_ion_Cell_Checker_Alarm_UK_Warehouse_.html

 

It just plugs into the battery's balance lead I think?

Edited by mism
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yeah thats one. 

 

there are lots of different types on market but they all do one thing in common.

read voltage and warn when a set limit is reached. and when we say warn, its not a low'ish bleep, its a high pitched beep beep

your able to hear it even when the car is bombing along.

 

Most do rely on the esc to cut out, but problem is an esc is an electronic brain and brains can fall over,

and or forget things. the lipo alarm-meter is more a second self defence mode , if that goes of and your esc has not cut out

something needs looking at, maybe esc is programmed wrong or its starting to show wear and tear.

 

the lipo meter/alarm also acts like a mini volt meter. mine reads upto 8s im sure, so its able to read off my 12v car battery no problem on its full voltage.

but when plugged into a balance lead on the lipo batterys its shows lots more info to the user. 

 

now most have FQA's 

 

can we use the lipo alarm even when our battery is in the car and hooked to the esc . and is it the balance lead we use ?

 

 "hell yeah, thats the best way to have them set up, in the car. balance lead plugs into your alarm and you tuck it out the way" 

 

can the meter tell me is my battery is faulty.?

 

what is the best cutoff value to have and/or use ? 

 

" Well i myself run a 3.7v cutoff most esc's will cut out at around this voltage some at 3.8v. as a good thing i would say to look after your batterys and have them last longer

use a cutoff value between 3.6v and 3.8v .

if you wish to risk a little drop down to 3.4v 3.5v but be warned it may make your batterys last a little less longer over time. 

 

yes but its not a wrote message, more so the voltage, it tells you the total voltage like 8.4v fully charged 2s lipo , and then cycles

and says c1 4.2 c2 4.2  ........... some will have a c1 others may not have any just each cells voltage one after the other but all the same its saying the voltage of the total battery

and each little pocket cell inside the whole battery.

Edited by Tamiyacowboy
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 just degrade and puff up.

 

^That. The voltage still drops on its own over long periods of time, eventually it'll just puff and one or more cells will read zero volts. Best practice when it comes to storing lipos for long periods is to take them out, check the cell voltages and do a discharge>charge cycle once every few months, to keep them 'fresh'. 

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  • 2 months later...

Hi, I'm very knew to RC and of course this forum and I have a quick question.  I currently use 5000mAh 5s LiPo batteries.  However I've seen a great deal on some 5200mAh 6s LiPo batteries, considerably cheaper than I have been paying for my 5s batteries.

What I was wondering is this, if I bought some of these 6s batteries would it be possible to turn them into 5200mAh 5s batteries?

Edited by Teasy
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  • 4 weeks later...

Help please !

Now returning back to the r/c game, I have the same dilemma as some others about these Lipo batteries. I have a Hornet with the 540 motor (Tamiya stock) in it and a TEU-105bk ESC in it, but doesnt run for very long with a 7.2v Battery. Firstly , is it ok to use a lipo battery on it? If i use a lipo battery on it, would this improve on time and speed. AND which one would be best to use please. 

Looking to get a Dark Impact soon too, so will need to know for this too. 

Thank you for your time a patience.

 

Edited by Skiing Monkey
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  • 4 months later...

Hi there,

 

I have just brought this: https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=82842

 

I am a little confused. Should I set the ampage on the charger to match the MAH on the pack so if I have 5800mah battery, set the charger to 5.8a? Same for storage mode?

 

I'm just confused if so, whats the point of having 20a as surely there's no batteries big enough? 

 

How do I know if the charger is charging at 1c, 2c, 3c etc?

 

On my old charger, when I used storage mode, the highest I could do is 1.0a which is what is really throwing me here.

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