Zombi's Axial SCX-10

[Zombi]

Procure a loan of one, make a plug from it and make a vacuu-form machine to create your own?

 

Yeah right - I'm a computer geek not a magician

 

OHO, yeha ok noted. When the time comes i might take a look there. Ideally I want the full kit though not just the body. I could still get the cab and drop bed (in yellow!?) from various places you see.

 

So anyway it's begun - I managed to start it off on my work lunch break and got to building the MIPs.

 

 

It seems that just as with my Yeti, there was a gap between the end of the MIP and the bearing which would allow the pinion to be pushed in - so I shimmed it with 2 of the teflon shims I used on my Yeti. No more slop.

 

 

 

 

Also, you can see the Traxxas pins sticking out on the first pic and just as said earlier in this thread they'd need trimming. However, I realised i had some similar pins that were shorter so just used those instead. I'm not sure where I got them from, but I think it may well have been from my Yeti. I really don't recall, but I'm glad I have them. Here's the difference between the two of them.

 

EDIT: They were from my Yeti, Axial AXA0286.

 

Edited June 24, 2015 by Zombi

[flatout!]

Nice job.

Edited June 24, 2015 by flatout!

[Zombi]

J

 

Ummm... random act of the day there, Flatout?

[Oh How Original]

You don't get the complete kit anyway... You have to buy certain extras separately.

I meant someone might sell a complete body they do pop up from time to time.

Although if they have indeed been discontinued, we can expect prices to rise as peoples greed rises.

[Zombi]

Well what to say about these shocks... other then shockingly bad.  I imagine i'll be swapping these out sooner rather than later.

 

[Zombi]

This made me chuckle - these little wheels against the Yeti's Swampers, cute!!!!

 

Edited June 24, 2015 by Zombi

[Zombi]

Managed to get a bit more done today. 

 

I picked up the unis from Banners last night. Much better than the stock dog bones.

 

 

 

Also, when he suggested that I should have some of his "beef", I was horrified to think that our friendship had strayed from the platonic RC love we share to something a little more 'risqu

Edited June 25, 2015 by Zombi

[The Dark Knight]

Are you running the brass tubes front & rear?

The size difference is crazy between the SCX10 & Yeti tyres!

[Noj]

'Banner's Beef'

Rotflmao.

Damn fine pieces of engineering from Mr B.

[Zombi]

Are you running the brass tubes front & rear?

 

Yeah front and rear. Banners said at minimum it needs to be in the front, but I'm not doing a half job.

[The Dark Knight]

Cool, I ended up getting brass front & alloy rear. I might get brass for the rear too to try.

[Zombi]

Progressed a bit more tonight and got the transmission built. The HR gear set seem pretty damn solid, I'm rather impressed with those and it makes me want to get the Yeti version. Maybe the next time I need to go into the Yeti's transmission I might just do the honours.  I did have one gripe about the trans in this thing though, see further down...

 

 

 

 

 

 

I was going to get a steel spur, but after talking numerous people about that they all recommended going with a plastic spur, the reason being that it's cheap insurance against seriously damaging something connected with the transmission. Fair point I guess, and that's why I got 2x the RR delrin spurs instead. Maybe I'll go steel in the future, but for now these seem to look the part.

 

 

 

And to my gripe. The output shaft which the spur is connected to had a lot of play in it. Specifically, it would move several mm on the horizontal axis, which to me is pretty shoddy. I did some reading and it turns out it's common in this transmission, and folks on RCC suggested shimming with two of the Traxxas teflon washers just behind the pin.  So once again I put these to good use and hey presto, no more slop at all it's solid and still rotates smoothly.

 

These shims really were a superb buy 

 

 

Edited June 26, 2015 by Zombi

[Oh How Original]

Might have small wheels and tyres but it's surprising how capable these rigs actually are.

IMO they are the perfect blend of crawler and scaler, not scale as in hard bodied ultra realistic, but a scaled down version of a bada55 1:1 rock crawler!

Have you decided on paint?

 

Oh and as for shocks, I know you'll probably go for Kings or something, but Boom Racing Type 2 Boomerangs are definitely worth looking at, very very good shocks for the money, especially in a 50% droop set up

Edited June 26, 2015 by Oh How Original

[Zombi]

Paint, what a nightmare. So ideally I want a military colour on the go, either olive drab green or desert sand. Problem is that Tamiya don't do a polycarbonate that matches either of those colours, all they offer is poor alternatives.  

 

The best choice would be Tamiya TS5 or TS46, spray them on the inside and finish it with the clear matt lacquer, or just paint it on the outside. But I read that if you don't use the poly paint it'll just crack and flake off.

 

So I'm not sure what to do here, can you guys advise?  This is my first lexan body paint job so I'm a bit lost.

[Tamiyacowboy]

yeah the ts5 olive drab 

 

maybe paint outside and satin clear coat it gives that plush sheen and not the gloss shiney bling.

also allows you to treat the paintwork like a real car, ie touch up light sand then a satin shoot to finish the touchup repair,

 

i would lay a medium slate gray down then put the olive drab overtop. 

you can also play around on card first with tester sized mini cans.

gray over then streak some black over just a hint of black lines

then go over those with your OD ( olivedrab) , you will see the drab start to darken up to a more deeper brownblack drab green.

Edited June 27, 2015 by Tamiyacowboy

[Zombi]

That sounds great actually - but because it's not polycarbonate paint, won't it crack and flake away?  I hear that it will.

[mini-z-awd]

ts paint will just like you say flake off after a bit i used it on a polycarbanate body a few yrs ago didnt notice it was the wrong paint till after i painted the body and it did`nt last long before it started flaking off in spots 

Edited June 27, 2015 by mini-z-awd

[Zombi]

In between paint chat (keep it coming because I need the input   ), I'll add the next update. I got the steering done tonight and added the servo and high clearance pieces I got from Banners. I'm hoping I've built it right as I had no instructions and pictures on the internet for this seem to be pretty minimal.

 

Please do comment if it doesn't look right, I need to ensure I've done it correctly.

 

 

 

I originally got this servo arm for my yeti to continue the red theme. I was going to swap my Axial anodised for it, but couldn't be bothered to open it all up so the Dingo gets it.

 

 

 

 

And here's what I want checking over - did I do it right or what chaps?

 

 

 

 

 

[Zombi]

ts paint will just like you say flake off after a bit i used it on a lexan body a few yrs ago didnt notice it was the wrong paint till after i painted the body and it did`nt last long before it started flaking off in spots 

 

Right thanks. So that's that then - I can't use a TS paint on this thing because it'll be far from a shelf queen.

 

Are there any other brands of poly spray you use other than Tamiya? I can't believe how limited their PS colour range is.

[mini-z-awd]

fastrax do paint aswell but iam not sure were you would get it or if it would be any good though i have used there chameleon paint before with no probs and theres also pactra but the same thing applies as the fastrax stuff.

 

the steering looks good to me iam running the same knuckles but i used the straight link bar on mine for the upper link

Edited June 27, 2015 by mini-z-awd

[Zombi]

Ok ta, I'll look those up. 

 

Glad to know it looks all right. I had a mess about with the straight bar that came with the kit but I couldn't get it to fit. Would you mind posting up a pic of yours so I can get a feel for how you did it please?

[mini-z-awd]

here is mine. it looks like your servo is further back than mine so that`s why you cant fit the straight bar but the bar you will do the job just aswell 

 

[Oh How Original]

With regards to paint, I prefer Fastrax Fast Finish over Tamiya paints myself.

Wider range, better prices, bigger tins and it dries nicer IMO.

Done a few shells with both and it's my first choice now.

They might have just what you're after

As for the bar, some sit the servo in front of the mounts, some sit it behind, that might be the problem.

[Zombi]

Great I'll be looking those up then!

What do you mean behind or in front of the mounts? Which mounts?

I don't think I'm getting full steering out of it, as it stops when the bar hits the axle rather than maxing out at the knuckles.

[Oh How Original]

After double checking, you do in fact have it sat in front of the mounts.

Where the servo screws to, the little posts, some people sit the servo behind it, rather than in front of it.

In front is the 'right' way to do it for a simple set up.

Can Banners not perhaps put you some extenders together for the knuckles? So the bar is say 3/4mm further forward and you'll get full steering throw?

Something similar in design to a servo saver?

I can't remember if I had any issues with steering really, aside from having to chop a tiny bit from the chassis cross member to make the suspension work fully.