jamesd Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 I just changed the tx and rx in my WR8 since my transmitter broke and I snapped the wire on my receiver, since doing that my car keeps stopping and then going again once it gets a bit further away. It will run quite happy close by but as soon as it goes about 20 meters or so away it will randomly stop for 20 seconds or so and then start going again even if you don't walk closer to the car. Is there something else other than binding the two together that needs done? I have re calibrated the ESC aswell. Both the tx and rx are second hand so I am wondering if there is a problem with one of them. If I have to get new radio gear does any one have any suggestions for an upgrade? I have the TF 40 gear in it just now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 Snapped wire on RX..... Hazarding a guess that is the root cause of the problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesd Posted March 23, 2015 Author Share Posted March 23, 2015 Sorry I haven't worded that well at all. I meant to say that I had snapped the wire on my receiver and changed it for a new one and I am having problems with the new one. What happened was the steering on my transmitter broke. I had a spare transmitter but when I opened up the electrics box to bind the new transmitter to my receiver I managed to snap the aerial wire on the receiver. I then replaced the receiver with a spare I had, but now with the different receiver and transmitter I seem to be having the problems described above. It Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smeghead28 Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 New batteries in the transmitter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesd Posted March 23, 2015 Author Share Posted March 23, 2015 Yeah I have tried new batteries in the transmitter, and its still the same Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NuttyProfessor Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 Have you recalibrated your esc to match the end points? Set throttle trim to 0 and make sure the Ch 2 EPA is at 100% then recalibrate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 Aerial is pointed upright and away from forms of interference (motor, ESC and wiring) and is not in contact with metal components? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesd Posted March 25, 2015 Author Share Posted March 25, 2015 Have you recalibrated your esc to match the end points? Set throttle trim to 0 and make sure the Ch 2 EPA is at 100% then recalibrate. Yeah I have tried this and it hasn't made a difference Aerial is pointed upright and away from forms of interference (motor, ESC and wiring) and is not in contact with metal components? Areal is fine, its in the standard tube thats on the electric's box. before I had a bit of wire sticking out the top of the areal tube, I don't think there is as much now. Should that make a difference? I will re adjust it and see. Thanks for all the suggestions guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 Not a good idea to leave the aerial tip unprotected, as it's the last couple of cm's or so that is the 'active' part. Get a new tube if needs be, and make sure it extends as high as possible before fouling on the shell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesd Posted March 25, 2015 Author Share Posted March 25, 2015 Not a good idea to leave the aerial tip unprotected, as it's the last couple of cm's or so that is the 'active' part. Get a new tube if needs be, and make sure it extends as high as possible before fouling on the shell. My WR8 has always had the white bit of the aerial hanging out of the end of the aerial tube like the picture below. Should I adjust it so that its not like this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 I wouldn't and as there is plenty of height under the wr8 shell, may as well make use of it. I've never run an aerial like that since 27mhz days.... Whilst you're fiddling, perhaps cable tie the motor wires to the rear brace, as far from the aerial as possible (not in danger of fouling the rear drive shaft of course ), if they are hanging loose as per the above image. Worth noting that 2.4g isn't infallible, as in, there can be deadspots for range. I have experienced it with spektrum gear, never my flysky... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NuttyProfessor Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 Did you solder a new aerial in or did it just clip in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesd Posted March 26, 2015 Author Share Posted March 26, 2015 I wouldn't and as there is plenty of height under the wr8 shell, may as well make use of it. I've never run an aerial like that since 27mhz days.... Whilst you're fiddling, perhaps cable tie the motor wires to the rear brace, as far from the aerial as possible (not in danger of fouling the rear drive shaft of course ), if they are hanging loose as per the above image. Worth noting that 2.4g isn't infallible, as in, there can be deadspots for range. I have experienced it with spektrum gear, never my flysky... Ok I will adjust it and see if that makes a difference, I will also try securing the motor cables to the rear brace. I am begining to think its a problem with either the transmitter or the recciver now. I think I will replace them both. Do you have any reccomendations on what set to get? Should I just go for the HPI TF 40 again or are there better sets for the similar money? Did you solder a new aerial in or did it just clip in? I changed the whole recciver for one without a damaged aerial Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 Flysky gt3b/c. Cheap, reliable, good range, compatible RX's can be bought from hobbyking for around six quid, 10 model memory.... Not the most responsive, however, 7 bashers programmed into mine have no issues, inc a BL Baja Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesd Posted March 26, 2015 Author Share Posted March 26, 2015 Flysky gt3b/c. Cheap, reliable, good range, compatible RX's can be bought from hobbyking for around six quid, 10 model memory.... Not the most responsive, however, 7 bashers programmed into mine have no issues, inc a BL Baja That seems decent, is it an upgrade compared to the standard HPI TF-40 or about the same? Its a bit cheaper than the HPI set. The other set I was looking at was this one: http://www.modelsport.co.uk/carson-reflex-pro-2-lcd-3ch-2.4ghz-fhss-combo/rc-car-products/368278 just because its from modelsport and I would rather buy from them because of the service I have had from them. Will it be just as good or better than the HPI TF-40? I would rather upgrade the radio gear or replace it with something the same spec/quality as the original Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 Similar functionality to the Carson one you linked, different design. Never used a Carson so unable to comment on reliability. The absima cr3p is rated well and, iirc, uses the hobbyking, flysky compatible RX's. Have a search through the forum, sure there is a recent-ish thread on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoea Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 (edited) I have two 4 channel stick sky transmitters for my groundy RC's at the moment. Should I be budgeting for a stick, like (as it seems at the moment) a core o etronix? I used to prefer the stick to the trigger trannys, but I've only tried one trigger type which was a cheap TT bx2 one... PS this is a thread derail I think, feel free to ignore or whotsoever PS2 the problem with the sky transmitters is the throttle (left finger/thumb) is not on a spring, it's on a clicky graduated line. Edited March 27, 2015 by Zoea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NuttyProfessor Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 I flipped the spring in my Futaba 6EX to give me a left stick spring loaded throttle, been using it for 2 years plus and its still solid, paid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesd Posted March 31, 2015 Author Share Posted March 31, 2015 Thanks for all the advice, in the end I managed to get a cheap HPI TF-40 and receiver from an eBay breaker. I have fitted that to the WR8 and in the short time I have driven it the range seems fine. Although now my front diff has gone so I am waiting on parts to rebuilt it lol. I opened up the transmitter I was having the range problems with and there seems to be a leg with no solder on it, it seems like it was like this from the factory all the other legs next to it have been soldered but there is one that hasn't had a drop of solder on it. The leg is contacting the pad on the board though so I am guessing this is why is works to a certain degree. After discovering that I managed to switch the wheel and its spring and also the steering potentiometer across to my original transmitter and I have gotten that operational again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.