mond Posted June 13, 2016 Share Posted June 13, 2016 You got the kit? Then it should have the HD gears. I got mine just after release and it had them. The tyres balloon a little on 4S. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nikonthenet Posted June 13, 2016 Share Posted June 13, 2016 (edited) Thanks for the reply mond! Yep, I got the kit. Would be really helpful if you could indicate which gears came with your kit from the images below. I got #1 with mine and I've been told, these are not the HD gears that come with the version2 -which I assume are #2...? #1 #2 Edited June 13, 2016 by Nikonthenet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turok007 Posted June 13, 2016 Author Share Posted June 13, 2016 (edited) i had a early kit and it had the #1 The HD ones cost less lol Edited June 13, 2016 by turok007 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 As I now own Mond's, I confirm gears 1 are fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mond Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 The non HD ones which came on the RTR I believe we're silver and some kind of nickel based metal going by the threads on RC crawler when it first came out. Have they stripped at all Noj? They seemed to me fairly good quality and certainly not pot metal...had plenty of those in various tank gear boxes. One thing I'd have loved to have had the skills to do would have been to put Losi Truggy diffs in the back and the entire Losi Truggy bulk head/diff housing on the front. Those things are indestructible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 All gears are in perfect working order, no discernible wear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mond Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 I can only assume they are indeed the HD gears then. If not, Axial's non-HD gears seem to be well worth the investment, as are the Dhawk spacers and Hot Racing diff cases - even if they didn't fit properly. I've actually been having moments of regret selling that car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nikonthenet Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 Thanks for the replies and insight folks Regards the HD gears, I am under the impression of the images above #1 is standard gears and #2 are the HD gears, but I could be wrong...I only have discussion from forums to go on and thats not always clear or accurate. Axial has confirmed that in fact the HD gears are now included in the latest YXL 'kits'...that said, #1 image above could be HD gears and #2 could be helical gears... My reason for asking was to be sure about what I got before taking up the issue with my supplier of the kit. Tho I'm still none the wiser if or not I have the HD gears. It was a disappointment at first -if you buy a car in 2016, you expect the 2016 model. That sad, this is the first time I've built a differential so I approach it as learning curve and understand that it'll need rebuilding/replacing due to some mistake on my part as I learn this stuff! Anyhoo...super excited now as my buggy will be finished very soon. All thats left is to paint the cockpit and wire everythign up, correctly! Thankfully my local shop and kit supplier is helping. Here's my beast, ope you like! You can see some of the obvious hopups I made. I also made effort to improve the drive-chain to cope with the extra weight in the wheels. One of the reasons I was keen to have the HD gears installed, but hey-ho. Super happy all the same! Thanks again for the help and advice! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mond Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 Looks good! The weight of the wheels could be an issue but see how it goes. You may want to check the drive shaft from the gearbox to the pinion as that may be affected by the additional weight - the one I had was warped slightly even before use so that had to go. Adding a metal spacer or bearing in between the two pinion bearings will also help with reducing stress and wear. It will be hard to shim the rear axle but the front diff can be shimmed which will help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nikonthenet Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 Thanks mond! Well I think I'll be driving it like an old man compared to what I see on the tube! I'm thinking about a 2 speed tranny as I do edge towards crawling over obstacles than the need for speed 100% of the time...I want to see how good AVC goes before I make that jump though(as AVC uses the 2 free channels[DX4S], one of which would be required by the 2 speed selector). I've got the Dhawk Pinion spacer in place(front and rear), along with Dhawk metal ball joints and GMP steel rear drive. Everything was shimmed as accurately as possible using a draper vernier...that said, the limit of my knowledge/experience means other than whats indicated in the manual, I'm not sure what 'correct shimming' means exactly! It all 'feels' good when I rotate things. Tho I've resided myself to the fact that I will likely destroy the gears as I learn. I'm planning to take it easy with a break in period, to test and adjust where I can. I'm currently running the factory supplied diff fluid, 20k I think, but I read most people recommend 500k which I also thought might help with the additional weight...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 I rebuilt with 30k oil front and rear, yet to test it though as I still have the binding issue on the front centre shaft to rectify (which means pulling the front end off, again....) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mond Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 500k will only really help with crawling. Depends on where you're going to use it and on what surface. The problem I had - and I think also Noj discovered - is both the spring rate and oil thickness. The front sits quite low and compressed and the rear tends to kick up, especially over undulating terrain and can cause the nose to dip when jumping. I never really found a happy medium before I sold it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 It did kick the back end up....I've stuck 45wt oil in the rear and left the front as you'd built 'em....with the baja top springs... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nikonthenet Posted June 21, 2016 Share Posted June 21, 2016 (edited) I've ordered some hot racing springs to try raise the front a little. Its extremely low with the allu bulkhead, steering and Tbone bumper on mine. Got 'first mud' on my YXL this afternnon. I might call it Rambo as I don't think I'l ever get bigger! It is a monster and eats the terrain at my local spot which is great for fun obstacles, choice of jumps, a few too many trees! and theres an open field right next to it...it really flys even on 4s! No signs of problems with the build so far, apart from the servo arm coming loose. Super happy Edited June 21, 2016 by Nikonthenet 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vandalbulldog Posted July 10, 2016 Share Posted July 10, 2016 How are you guys dealing with the torsion roll? Mine seems to flip for fun whenever you hit a turn.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny Posted July 10, 2016 Share Posted July 10, 2016 On 21/06/2016 at 21:18, Nikonthenet said: I've ordered some hot racing springs to try raise the front a little. Its extremely low with the allu bulkhead, steering and Tbone bumper on mine. Got 'first mud' on my YXL this afternnon. I might call it Rambo as I don't think I'l ever get bigger! It is a monster and eats the terrain at my local spot which is great for fun obstacles, choice of jumps, a few too many trees! and theres an open field right next to it...it really flys even on 4s! No signs of problems with the build so far, apart from the servo arm coming loose. Super happy Where is this spot mate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nikonthenet Posted July 12, 2016 Share Posted July 12, 2016 On 7/10/2016 at 08:47, vandalbulldog said: How are you guys dealing with the torsion roll? Mine seems to flip for fun whenever you hit a turn.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I tend only to roll on rough grass where I guess the wheels dig in ruts. I am having trouble getting the front suspension setup correctly, but the dirt surface I bash at seems fine. On 7/10/2016 at 16:46, sunny said: Where is this spot mate? Its in Wollaston near Stourbridge, Sunny. If you want more info, shoot me a PM! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mond Posted July 12, 2016 Share Posted July 12, 2016 Try HPI Baja 5B soft front springs, the yellow ones to replace the stock top springs at the front. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vandalbulldog Posted July 18, 2016 Share Posted July 18, 2016 Ive put it in the for sale area of the forum now. Using funds for Marine! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DBXL Smithy Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 Is it worth buying sway bars for both front and rear? Also will these be a direct fit? Been told body panels will hit the tyres on a turn? - http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/196443/ I am thinking of buying these sway bars for the rear. - http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/249268/ Anyone using lights on there Yeti XL? If so what ones please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mond Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 (edited) Rear sway bars are a must but the stock ones are rubbish and the eyelets will break. The Hot racing one is pretty good. Not sure if the front is needed. Noj will be able to answer that. I know the stock one is terrible and tears out of the mount. Those trenchers may look a little short on a YXL. I used their 3.8 sand paddles and it frankly looked silly. The slightly bowing arms also get pretty close to the ground too with shorter wheels. The kit wheels and tyres are actually ok but need taping. Someone did actually bring out YXL specific wheels but can't remember who. Edited August 19, 2016 by mond Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DBXL Smithy Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 I want some tyres pre-mounted to fit on the Yeti XL same size as the stock RTR tyres/wheels but with better and thicker grip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mond Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 Are you getting the 8mm Axle stubs or a 17mm conversion? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DBXL Smithy Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 Wont be touching the axle stubs etc as of yet. Just want to upgrade tyres, body panels, lights, sway bar and then work from there. Do you think these will work better? - http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/119316/?gclid=CjwKEAjw3Nq9BRCw8OD6s4eI5HASJABsfCIay8YQRPC1NcBqftI4KPSQF2TlcCoid98BhM-iRFNPwBoCba3w_wcB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mond Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 You have the RTR though? Think that has the skinny axles so not sure what you can do with those. It has the 17mm hex but that tiny little nut on the thin axle. These: http://www.pbxrc.com/product-p/pb9009zdk.htm and thesehttps://www.amainhobbies.com/vanquish-products-kmc-3.8-rockstar-xd811-wheel-black-2-vps07660/p451098 work but need foams. These 40 series trenchers may work, they are taller than the other version https://www.prolineracing.com/tires/trencher-3.8-40-series-all-terrain-tires-mounted-on-tech-5-black-wheels/ There's some advice on the topic here: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-yeti-xl/530616-yeti-wheels.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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