Noj Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 I'm new to the party Nito, kit is here but in storage for now until we get the garage converted for man cave and workshop. I went for the ebay listed bits, interior and door cards with PE parts. Personally, I think the faux leather seat cover looks awful, so will paint the interior up. Have some tamiya driver figures doing nowt, the Wild Willy driver may get dropped in (if his head fits) For now, I'm following all threads bruiser related and gleaning info. Once my flysky 9hx is sorted, tempted to fit that, as a six channel set up gives options... An 8ch set up is also feasible, lol! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 11, 2015 Author Share Posted January 11, 2015 Congratulations Noj, I did lots of reading while waiting to do mine, I had it a few weeks before xmas and although I bought it for myself I waited until xmas to open it. I wanted to be in the right frame of mind before embarking on it. Yeah the leather does look a bit hit and miss, it doesn't look good in the fitted pictures, I've seen better paint jobs. Watchman, thanks for that crawler info, I've never had a go at it, I can see why you'd want it to hold, so to confirm if drag brakes is set at 100%, this equates to 100% brakes in neutral in effect? Now I understand why crawler esc's ar rated at such low turns, due to heat and gearing then I guess. Thanks Nito Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the watchman Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 Weve just had the kitchen re-done with all new appliances mrs has just agreed i can have my tamiya collection in a glass display cabinet in the kitchen next to the fridge whoop whoop, should look awesome haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 Kitchen?? I wouldn't personally, too many airborne nasties that could damage 'em and the cabinet glass. I can recommend these guys though:http://www.hds-showcases.co.uk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 11, 2015 Author Share Posted January 11, 2015 (edited) That's very nice of her...haha my wife said "is she mad??". Mind you, as Noj says, wait until she does a fry up, or cooks an indian lol, nice talking point for guests though. We'll be wanting pics of course! Those SQ cabinets are really nice Noj, when you click on the illustrated price list some very nice ones there. Well I managed a bit on the shell this morning, noticed a few more items, I'd be interested to know if yours are the same. Nice dent on the rear tailgate, I was quite tempted to leave it as a character dent, especially as my 1:1 Hilux has one in exactly the same place!! Then I started sanding it out lol. This is it before...I haven't finished it yet, Also some sharp edges to attend to; Finally, was messing about driving around the kitchen and ran into some gearbox trouble. Around the neutral area of the servo, I seem to be getting a false neutral in the box. Pulled the inspection plugs and all seems well internally. After what I said about the S3003 light duty servo, I've a feeling the issue is with this, it seems a bit sloppy in the centre position. It may be an issue with the servo horn come loose but I doubt it. I think I'm going to replace this with the same servo I have for the steering, a proper heavy duty metal geared ball bearing jobbie. I think I underestimated the strain on the servo for the gearshifter. It actually takes a fair amount of effort to shift. I also wonder if there is any shock loading on the plastic gear when the give in the servo horn suddenly yields to the shifter engaging as it clicks into the gear. A little frustrating to be having to pull bits apart again, but hopefully I can sort it out and it's not a characterisitc of the box! It was shifting smoothly at the beginning and the gearbox seems all ok. I'll report back when I get around to replacing it. It shifts from low 4 to high 2 no problem, it's shifting back from 4wd to low 2 that it goes into neutral as the servo gets sloppy or imprecise around the servo neutral position. With regards to the gearbox, I'm not really sure what the purpose of the 2L is. It does doughnuts better on the kitchen floor in high 2wd rather than low. If I only had a 2 position switch think I'd run it as 4L and 2H. It seems to eat the NiMh batteries too. I may switch my esc over to Lipo and just use them on this. I have a little deans to tamiya connector anyway. Edited January 12, 2015 by NITO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 http://www.hds-showcases.co.uk/SC5.jpg Perfect size for tamiyas, tucks away nicely in the corner of a living/dining room...this one needs a little more room, but again, is bob on:http://www.hds-showcases.co.uk/SC6.jpg I'll be ordering more from these guys, only downside is the carriage costs, so it makes sense to order more than one to offset the delivery charge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibo Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 Had a check on my shell and there are no blemishes,I would be tempted to fill it with a filler or a dab of resin then sand down,sanding it without either you would loose the line, my servos is same as yours for steering, and for the gears I use the Power HD High Torque and it works fine,I did have the Savox 1256 and HPI SF-1 combo but found the gearchange like yours very spongy/twitchy.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 Thanks ibo, I was going to fill as you say, but then worried about shrinkage or anything after painting. It came out ok sanding, it was a straight flat edge and I just went back and forth. It's pretty much done, didn't effect any lines where it was. Thanks for the feedback on your servo, I wondered if that was why you changed, seems I underestimated the torque required. The futaba s3003 is only about 3kg-cm torque and my esc puts out 5v. The steering one is more like 6kg at the same voltage. My kids savox metal geared are 15kg (@6v). Cheers Nito Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 Just bought another Futaba servo (to match the steering one), got fleeced this time, all the discounted unboxed ones have gone, so had to buy a boxed one, ended up at Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 My interior has been sent, I'll pop piccies up when it arrives :9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 Ooooh, yes please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 13, 2015 Author Share Posted January 13, 2015 This just in... Some 3 piece Hop up wheels for the Bruiser. I understand the original had three piece rims too which unfortunately wasn't replicated on the Re release. I suspect I will mount some more effective tyres on these and keep the original kit wheels for shelf queen duties. From what I've read the standard tyres don't help absorb bumps and are too hard to grip very well. I have some HPI Yokohama Geolanders on my Lunchbox, might give them a try on the Bruiser to see how they work out, they come with foams and are excellent. I also bought a new screwdriver, exactly the same as my old one which has seen some serious use and is getting a little worn. I think the quality of this knocks spots off even snap on screwdrivers. I bought some HPI ones recently and they turned out to be total junk which suprised me as I'm usually a big fan of HPI's quality second only to Tamiya And finally some more thread locking gel, I ran out on the very last bits to be assembled so I now I have some spare in case I need to rebuild any of it or if I decide to upgrade screws later on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 13, 2015 Author Share Posted January 13, 2015 (edited) Pretty much finished sanding the body tonight, so decided to have a look at the new 3 piece beadlock hop up rims. I used the HPI tyres Yokohama Geolanders from my Lunchbox which are great tyres with sponges, they fit the wheel fine but come up smaller than the bruiser tyres by about 10mm in overall height and width (118mm high vs 108mm and 60mm vs 50mm). This gives less of a big foot look and a little more of a scaler look, the jury is out, think I'd like to find some tyres slightly closer to the original size. These handle great on the lunchbox. Also notice that the 3 piece rims don't have a centre hub cover. And some pics fitted... Yokos Standard Yokos Standard Yokos on the right... Apologies for picture quality! I'm well happy with the wheels, they grip the tyre really well. I would prefer it if they replicated the hub like the standard wheels as the locknut looks a little strange but really pleased with the way they go together, so much better than gluing tyres to the rim. Edited January 13, 2015 by NITO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibo Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 Looking good,found these the other day. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271740471312?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 15, 2015 Author Share Posted January 15, 2015 Many thanks for that ibo, looks like a good find, good price for all of that. Nice one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 17, 2015 Author Share Posted January 17, 2015 (edited) I had some small issues with the gearshift being a bit sloppy around neutral. I thought it was the servo so ordered a matching BB metal geared Futaba. After taking the electrics box apart to fit the new servo, it looked to me like it was the servo saver possibly to blame since the servo seemed fine. So I decided to tension up the servo saver band a little by squeezing it in some; There also seems to be some markings on here, suprising since it's not really done any work; Anyway, I decided to fit the new servo while here as I don't really want to take the electrics box apart again as it's a bit of a pain to remove. If the gearchange reverts to being sloppy again, I'll add an extra metal band to the servo saver to stiffen it up a little, should be ok with the metal geared servo if I do need to do this I would have thought. What a lovely pair of servos I've also properly tidied up the wiring now, as well as all the servo/speed controller wiring beneath; The speed controller and receiver end; I switched the ESC's over to lipo but my HPI Lipo is 2mm too big to fit in the battery box so it's now back on NiMh. The HPI ESC uses simple jumpers to select the mode. The rest of the wiring has also been tidied up... I've spent a good hour or more driving it around the kitchen and shifting (I'm trying to drain/cycle some NiMh batteries that are playing up) and it has been shifting seamlessly. I hope this continues, if I get the mis-shifting into 2L like I did last time then it will definitely be the tension in the servo saver being too weak. I did take a video of the play/lack of tension in the servo saver for reference, I probably won't be uploading it unless anyone specifically wants it. You can also see the battery strap instead of the daft elastic bands! So that completes the truck once again so I can get back to the bodywork prep. I have spent quite a lot of time on the shell prepping it and envisage a little bit more still. I hope to be in a position to spray in a week or two's time. I'm waiting on a few bits and pieces although my first attempt with the new airbrush kit will be on a different Mad Bull shell of which I got a couple at xmas to paint as they were only Edited January 17, 2015 by NITO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibo Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 I thought about replacing the servo saver with a rigid one then thought better not,think you need that little bit of give,as the word says (saver),great work on the detail as regards the shell thought that line was part of the roof sill will have to try and blend mine in now when it comes to painting the sill silver/chrome,far better with the cable laced up,keep up the good work cant wait for the paint thread.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 18, 2015 Author Share Posted January 18, 2015 Thanks ibo. With regards to that servo saver; you know the tranny one only has one metal band, and the steering has two of these metal bands and then a third larger one on it. I was thinking of adding a second band (the same) to the tranny one if it plays up, so it will still act as a saver just with a bit more tension. Presumably a metal geared servo needs less 'saving' than say a plastic geared one....that's my thinking anyway. I paid more attention with the adjustment rod this time to make sure that I didn't have any tension on the saver at all now that I was more aware of the issue. Tightening up/tensioning the band definately helped I think, whether it'll keep that tension or not remains to be seen!! Yeah that line is hard to get, I nearly didn't mess with it as its hard to define where to end it and it gives a good break point, in the end I have a 1:1 Hilux (albeit the newer mk6 shape) so decided to blend it as it is on that. I took the same view with the rear bed. I'll stop the chrome window surround at the base of the windscreen and not bring the line down into the wing. Cheers Nito Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewbacca Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 What's the standard rim diameter Nito? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 18, 2015 Author Share Posted January 18, 2015 2.2in standard type.or 60mm approx in new money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewbacca Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 2.2in standard type.or 60mm approx in new money. Hmmmmmm. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 18, 2015 Author Share Posted January 18, 2015 What are you thinking Chewie?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewbacca Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 I'm wanting some different/larger but still Tamiya tyres for a future Mad Bull build.................................. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 18, 2015 Author Share Posted January 18, 2015 (edited) You could use stadium blitzer or bush devil wheels and put any 2.2 in tyres on. Such as the WT01 tyres. Here's my Jun Watanabe Monster Hornet wearing Bush Devil rims and WT01 tyres. And Stadium Blitzer wheels with HPI Yokohama Geolandars (108mm diameter) on the fighter buggy side by side with the Mad Bull. The Pin Spikes on Hornet above are 120mm diameter. Ps. That farm tractor wheelie thing also uses those pin spikes on the rear and mad bull tyres on the front. Hth Nito Edited January 19, 2015 by NITO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewbacca Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 It certainly does help chap. Spiky tyres it is! And now, back to the Hilux..............................................* *(Soz for the hijack) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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