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how do i know if a piston sleeve and piston are usable ?


tom's rc

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i hate to miss the obvious here but has no one thought about what happened the the crankcase and shaft, considering the con rod failed the the point it connects to the shaft it would be a good idea to make sure there are no burrs at the bottom of the crankcase or on the shaft itself.

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i hate to miss the obvious here but has no one thought about what happened the the crankcase and shaft, considering the con rod failed the the point it connects to the shaft it would be a good idea to make sure there are no burrs at the bottom of the crankcase or on the shaft itself.

I was guessing he would have said if there was a hole in the bottom of the casing?  :sweatdrop:

The crank pin maybe worn and that is maybe why the rod failed...but more than likely it was a worn/weak rod...and more than likely he can not measure the crank pin accurately....

A lot of "maybe"...mmm...presumption....and you know what they say about that. :)

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the crank case and shaft look fine, can see any damadge to them, the little gold ring that goes in the con rod hole is fine to, no damage and its still perfectly circular. so if thats fine i presume the pin would be fine as well.

 

time will tell anyway.

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well, engine runs (kinda).

i fitted the new con rod and tried to start it and in the end it did. it was idling for 10 mins then cut out so i tried to start it again but no luck, kept trying untill the glow ignitor died. will try again tomorrow

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Few things, 

Changing the rod can make some difference to how the engines runs...expect to change the mixture.

These engines are not really made to sit at idle speed for long...if it was idling for ten minutes then either it got too rich...or too lean....my guess would be too lean as there was not enough exhaust pressure to force fuel to the engine (greater volume of air in tank= more compressible).

Get it started with rich settings....chug it around for a few minutes to warm it up...then adjust HSN-LSN-Throttle gap....if it does not explode when we adjust the HSN then it should be good to go. :)

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If it starts then you can adjust it to be rich from there....the actual settings do not matter...but we want to get it running and warmed up for a few minutes before trying to tune it properly.

It is always easier to adjust from rich in the order...HSN-LSN.....for the best settings....(note as you adjust the LSN then the throttle gap will need changing).

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If an engine has a HSN and a LSN then if the HSN is set (definitely rich) you can adjust the LSN and throttle gap to make it run....if you are only adjusting the HSN to make it start then that is why you are finding things hard.

A cold engine will require a different mixture setting to run than the setting to run when warm...cold engine with warm settings are harder to start..

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HSN- High Speed Needle- adjust with wide open throttle...high RPM

LSN- Low Speed Needle- adjust with acceleration tests from idle speed...low RPM.

 

One adjusts the maximum fuel available...the other the minimum fuel available. 

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ok so i want to be adjusting the lsn... no wonder i have found things so hard lol.

Essentially yes. 

If you remove the air filter and have a look down the carburettor you can see how it works....the engine will run with a certain amount of air and fuel....when the throttle is "closed" then the position of the LSN and the throttle will dictate how much air and fuel the engine gets...the HSN is the total amount of fuel allowed...but it will have some effect over the entire rpm range because of the fact the system is pressurised.

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cheers guys. she runs well now , maybe a little to well as i accidentally full throttled her into a fence and broke the suspension arm :( i think a new set of arms and a tbone bumper will sort that out though :)

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