tonino1991 Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 well, here's all I've bought so far but not everything has arrived Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesd Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 I just received delivery of a rolling chassis today, I am hoping to get going with a spare vapour pro and motor from a WR8. I have a lot of reading in this thread to do but are is there anything I should check first or upgrade before running? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ste001 Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 Bearings Sent from my Fingers using the Tinternet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesd Posted April 2, 2015 Share Posted April 2, 2015 Bearings Sent from my Fingers using the Tinternet Thanks, i will check all the bearings. Where is the best place to get bearings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ste001 Posted April 2, 2015 Share Posted April 2, 2015 (edited) Theres a guy on here doing kits in FS i think. Thats where i got mine and was perfect. About Edited April 2, 2015 by Ste001 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesd Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeze Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 Mine needed proper tyres before it would do that consistently, have seen vids of 2s backflips on stockers but suspect they've got the slipper done up tight as lots of people resort to that to stop it backing off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ste001 Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 Great thanks I will look it up. Should these trucks do standing back flips on 2s batteries on stock tyres or do you need higher grip tyres? I can't seem to get mine to do it, I have only tried it on a paving slabbed patio maybe it needs to be tarmac? I had ground assaults on mine Sent from my Fingers using the Tinternet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesd Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 Mine needed proper tyres before it would do that consistently, have seen vids of 2s backflips on stockers but suspect they've got the slipper done up tight as lots of people resort to that to stop it backing off I had ground assaults on mine Sent from my Fingers using the Tinternet Thanks for the replies, I think I will need to look at getting some tires at some point. Not for a while though as I snapped the front to center driveshaft last night. I figured this was probabally down to the excessive wear on the cup joints, so i have ordered the HD replacments for both ends of the center shafts, the cups on the diffs and the hubs seemed ok so I havent ordered HD versions of them. I also have a 3s battery that I am tempted to try in this truck, do you need to change gearing to run a 3s? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeze Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 I use premount SCT sets on mine, softer and grippier than stock but not hugely wide with the hope it takes some of the strain off the drivetrain. Right diameter for stock gearing too Speaking of which, yes, you need to change the gearing for 3S. And be prepared to break stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesd Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 Perhaps I had better not run a 3s just yet then! I don't want to be breaking things, I have only just got it and haven't managed to run a pack through it before the driveshaft snapped lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mydoddy69 Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 well, here's all I've bought so far but not everything has arrived Those wheels are very heavy and may cause your truck to overheat, the tires come with foams so the inserts are not really needed and be careful you got the buggy 2.2 as the 1/10 version I believe is 2.8 and won't fit same with the mashers get 2.2 not 2.8 or it will add to your gearing and overheat the motor plus they won't fit on the rims you got The fan might not fit unless you give it or the truck a trim as there is very little room The cups are a great choice and work very well but personally I never had any luck with the hot racing bits as I found them a bit brittle sorry Be interesting to see how you get on with all these bits when they arrive so keep us posted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonino1991 Posted April 12, 2015 Share Posted April 12, 2015 As you can see, there are already installed some of the things I bought. I even made a cap bank... 10x 25V 470uF caps lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhm Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 Nice. What wheels are you running there? does anyone know if this shell : http://www.modelsport.co.uk/pro-line-volkswagen-baja-bug-clear-body/rc-car-products/35977 will fit onto the Savage XS at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demondan866 Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 Yes bud that shell will fit but only just, this is mine i've done a few now,you will need the wheelie bar rear body mounts to fit as there longer. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251924805126?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhm Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 Thanks. After seeing it on a savage though I think I'm not so keen on it. The arches don't look quite right to me. Maybe the Camaro shell instead then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demondan866 Posted April 22, 2015 Share Posted April 22, 2015 Check out proline militar 1/16 for revo looks good in the right colour, i have few picks in my photobucket album if you cant find one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhm Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 Looks promising. I couldn't find your pictures though? Looks good on the revo at least and suits a truck... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonino1991 Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 I'm using pro-line titus wheels and pro-line masher 2000 tires, a lot more grip than the stock tires, I'm using the 3s gearing and with 3s battery and bigger wheels the motor doesn't get hot at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sace Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 Lately my XS has been running far from great. I have a huge amount of cogging when trying to set off and my motor gets smoking hot. I have tried different batteries with same result. I think i need a new ESC. First the caps blew on this one (HW SC8 WP) and now this. But I really can't decide if i should get a new SC8 combo or a Castle SV3 SCT combo. I'm leaning towards the Castle as I have had a lot of trouble with my current HW (Oh I forgot - The LVC is completely useless on this one). Anyone here running the SV3 SCT combo in their XS? The prices are about the same as Modelsport is the only option for me to buy the SC8 (If ordered from HK the import taxes in Denmark is ridiculous and none of the UK based sellers will ship to Denmark). Lastly - Is the center CVD's worth the price? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeze Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 The cogging and the motor running hot sounds like the problem, not the ESC. The ESC is likely just dying as because the motor is pulling too much current as a result. If I was you, I would pull the motor and check the that the truck rolls OK without binding. If it doesn't then something in the drivetrain needs attention, if it all seems smooth then it may be worth cracking the motor open to check its OK too. On the CVDs, I've never run them as others seem to have problems with them so I've always stuck with the stock driveshafts and treated them as consumable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sace Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 The cogging and the motor running hot sounds like the problem, not the ESC. The ESC is likely just dying as because the motor is pulling too much current as a result. If I was you, I would pull the motor and check the that the truck rolls OK without binding. If it doesn't then something in the drivetrain needs attention, if it all seems smooth then it may be worth cracking the motor open to check its OK too. On the CVDs, I've never run them as others seem to have problems with them so I've always stuck with the stock driveshafts and treated them as consumable I forgot to mention that I've tried another motor this evening (same model as my own, running perfectly with another SC8 ESC in my colleagues XS) - Same result. So it dosen't seem related to the motor. I've checked all the wires etc. and everything looks fine. But the ESC caps are completely shot. I might try to add a cap bank on the battery wires to see if that helps. But I'm afraid that it doesent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonino1991 Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 you should take the motor out and check the entire transmision, there must be something that is too tight or jammed, that's why the motor can't move so freely and therefore the motor drains a lot more amps from the ESC. once I locked the wheels from turning and started to accelerate and the motor tried to spin but couldn't, I did that like 4 times and after that the solder melt because there was too much current flowing through there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sace Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 you should take the motor out and check the entire transmision, there must be something that is too tight or jammed, that's why the motor can't move so freely and therefore the motor drains a lot more amps from the ESC. once I locked the wheels from turning and started to accelerate and the motor tried to spin but couldn't, I did that like 4 times and after that the solder melt because there was too much current flowing through there No problems with the transmission as another ESC works fine in the car Will give the ESC one last chance tomorrow by adding a cap bank og 6x470uF low ESR polymer caps. If that doesent help I trash it. But.... What to get AS replacement? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonino1991 Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 maybe a hobbyking or something, if I were you I would get the same, it must be a faulty esc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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