smash Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 I'm running HPI Plazma 2s 5300mah 30c lipos. Not had any problem with them before running in my trophy. I was just a little surprised it would wheelie lol. slipper nut maybe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCbutcher Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 I orderd the gun metal grey scorch on Saturday and just got them today but wheelspin isnt far from me. I do check ms but its usually not very good for parts always out of stock for wheels or shells plus ws is cheaper I think. Ive dunked them straight into black dye I had left over from the chassis I hope its enough the grey is like traxxas grey just alittle darker. I expected shiney grey but that stuff flakes so im glad its not now. Ide like to try those 100% offset not for awhile tho these are over 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCbutcher Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 I just fitted the wheels spun them and swear the cvds are slightly bent the wheel looks buckled but even with the wheel off im sure I see the axle go up and down as I rotate it. Its new never used tho plus im sure my revo cvd does the same thing. So could I just have set it up wrong is there a way to be sure. Camber and toe is wayyyyy out but that doesnt account for the buckled look, should it? The rims ritt dyed nicly tho it looks nice and chunky with the dirtworks on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dark Knight Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 What C lipo should i look for 35c plus? for sc8 cc3800 to run it at highest punch glad you said about that darkknight. If it was me, I'd be looking at 65c minimum but even then I wouldn't run max punch. I just fitted the wheels spun them and swear the cvds are slightly bent the wheel looks buckled but even with the wheel off im sure I see the axle go up and down as I rotate it. Its new never used tho plus im sure my revo cvd does the same thing. So could I just have set it up wrong is there a way to be sure. Camber and toe is wayyyyy out but that doesnt account for the buckled look, should it? The rims ritt dyed nicly tho it looks nice and chunky with the dirtworks on. Camber and toe may have a slight effect on it depending how bad it is, if the cvd isn't that far in the cups. Have you removed the cvd's and checked they're all assembled correctly? Try swivelling the cvd in all directions, I made that mistake once. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rctech132 Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 Just had another succesful run today with the xs. This truck gets better every time i use it! Loads of loooong cartwheels after setting the brake force a bit higher. Still wont do wheelies tho on level 9 punch mode let alone a standing backflip as per hpi product videos. Is this to do with the shocking tyres? Ill e getting so ground assault so hopefully it will have a lot more grip then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louise-Paisley Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 I can't get a standing backflip, well, as far as landing on its back I can.. But on tarmac its easier to wheelie than not! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rctech132 Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 are you using ground assault? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louise-Paisley Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 no, stock.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louise-Paisley Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 (edited) and 2s 30c zippy 5ah hardcase battery, esc settings all default. Edited March 21, 2014 by Louise-Paisley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rctech132 Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 Strange. Mine won't wheelie at all on dry Tarmac or grass. I reckon it's the tyres as they're stock and quite worn but I hope that's the reason otherwise it's not gonna be as fun as I hoped... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louise-Paisley Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 My tires still have plenty grip, but really on dry tarmac less tread should be more grip should it not? Did you check the slipper, I wouldn't think it would be tyres if it won't wheelie on dry tarmac, 30c 5.3ah batteries should be fine as that's over the current mine will shift, I would say it has to be between the motor and the wheels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rctech132 Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 Well I'm running Hobbywing 4000kv motor. I can't hear the slipper slipping it looks more like the wheeles just spin as they have no traction. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louise-Paisley Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 maybe tis then.. mine is all stock. Just have wait and see if tyres fix it then really I guess Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCbutcher Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 My first xs flux wouldnt wheelie either but spin all four off the line for a metre mayb. That was with half worn std tires. I think those tires felt harder than the new std tires I had. So they start out pretty bad but get worse the balder they get that's my thought. Ill check my cvd out the truck to see darkknight I hope its not bent that will annoy me lol. I just got the 1in roll of gorilla tape cos the 2in roll is too wide but the 1in looks alil skinny I hope it doesnt balloon the edges but I want to just do one line centred to keep them balanced. Also the rims have draining holes do people cover those up and try to glue the tires sealed to stop water getting in and messing up the foams? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louise-Paisley Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 Also the rims have draining holes do people cover those up and try to glue the tires sealed to stop water getting in and messing up the foams? I made holes in the tyres so centrifugal force can throw the water back out which does work, but I notice wheels on the 1/8ths are now getting worse on the balance so I think maybe silt is collecting in there or something. Be interested to see the answer myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rctech132 Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 How often does everyone clean they're cars?by clean I mean strip down completely and clean properly opposed to just brushing down without taking apart. Personally if it's just dust or light dirt I let it dry before brushing it all of as best I can without taking it apart. Maybe once a month or so strip it down completely and clean everything unless I run in water and mud ten I would strip down to clean anyway. Is it okay I'm just brushing dust and dirt of instead of cleaning more thouroughly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ste001 Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 depends how much you use it haha. i do mine when i get bored every few months spose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louise-Paisley Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 What is strip down and clean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naymo Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 Read last few posts i thought id blow cobwebs off little savage and change servo this morning. So did that took it for a little try out in garden and now lost a bit of front drive! :-( So thats another strip down after ive entertained the family in town, gutted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ste001 Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 mine did that mate and it was the input bearing on the diff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rctech132 Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 So took the xs out today and the Hobbywing system has only been bad impressions so far. 2mins into my run the bloody motor wire comes off!!!! And I layered mee solder on there than I thought possible. So at this point I'm pretty annoyed even though I manage to fix it with electrical tape just so it wasn't a waste of a car journey. So I get it running but I don't know if anyone else experiences this the esc repeatedly cuts out then looses power but still works then cuts out again then it's back to normal power. Sometimes it lasts a few minutes curt out sometimes just a few seconds. I'm beginning to think I should have gone for more expensive electronics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louise-Paisley Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 (edited) I have just put a HW xerun in my MT4, only problem I had (and it was not confirmed just a suspicion ) was the bec is not quite up to high torque servo's so I fired in a separate turnigy BEC just to be safe. Soldering - if you are layering on solder then you soldered it wrong, with soldering to an extent less is more, you should be using just enough to do the job. Most common mistake is cheap soldering irons not delivering enough heat to the joint - note enough heat not enough temperature, its likely too much temperature and not enough heat that caused the fail.. heat the tab, apply just enough solder to coat it. Heat the wire, apply just enough solder to coat the strands. Put wire on tab and heat until solder on wire and solder on tab melt. Remove iron and keep the joint absolutely still until set. With some rubbish solders (Draper brand being one such rubbish solder) you may well need to coat things in more flux at each step to get a good clean joint Edited March 23, 2014 by Louise-Paisley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slugsie Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 So I get it running but I don't know if anyone else experiences this the esc repeatedly cuts out then looses power but still works then cuts out again then it's back to normal power. Sometimes it lasts a few minutes curt out sometimes just a few seconds. I'm beginning to think I should have gone for more expensive electronics That sounds like you're getting the well known 'issue' with HW ESCs being a little too aggressive with their LV cutoff. Try lowering the cutoff point, maybe as low as 3v, and see what happens. If you have a lipo alarm then disable the LV on the esc and use that. Basically, under load, the voltage in the LIPO drops - this is normal. But if the ESC is a little too eager, and the LV is set too high, the ESC will think you've hit cut off and then stop - exactly as it should. A few seconds later (before you could manually check) the LIPO has recovered, is giving enough volts, so the ESC gets back to full power again. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCbutcher Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 Same as smash said ive read the hw sc8 ist great for low voltage cut off or auto cell detection. Get the 2in1 card to programme it easier. You can use the turnigy version hobbyking sells too. I think theres a 3rd brand too hw escs work with. I havent read about many or any sc8s frying tho mayb onenon wp type. I smoked a hw60 esc on 3s once in flux reload v2 form the smoke was like a cigar too but no problem it carried on as if nothing happend. I surged it by slamming it down after it jumped into life full rpm so I slammed in on the floor I learnt you cant do that then tho lol. Im still really basic on brushless set ups. Can anyone link a good lipo for Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rctech132 Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 ive got the programing card with it. ill try setting the cutoff at 3v. would it be dangerous going any lower lke 2.8 or 2.6? And ill probably get a lipo alarm at some point Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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