Slugsie

The tray is 150mm long, 47mm wide, and 31mm high. But you should allow some space for the wires, so the official measurements are basically right.

In the early 90s I was driving through a town just outside Reading, and an F40 pulled out in front of me. I immediately turned the radio off and opened the window. I managed to follow it round the town streets for maybe 10-15 minutes.... in absolute heaven. Listening to that engine burbling away. drool. We then left the town and at the first sign of an open country road the driver planted their right foot, and it just screamed away. I could still hear it even when it was well out of sight. The F40 was already, and remains to this day one of my all time favourite super cars.

32pitch, 5mm bore IIRC.

I reckon an SC8WP would work, just check the ratings on your motor. A lot of 1/8th motors around the 2000kv mark have a max rating of a little over 120amps, which is slightly over the continuous rating of the SC8. However you'll never sustain the max so no problems there. However, you really want a sensored setup with the Summit - especially if you want nice and smooth low speed crawling. I don't have any recommendations for a sensored waterproof ESC unfortunately. I run a XeRun 150 which isn't waterproof, but I do have a dusty motors shroud which keeps the splashes out just fine.

I went brushless. 2000KV sensored motor, XERun 150amp esc. Upped the gearing a little as well. Speed is slightly up on stock, much more power, and super controllable,

Yes, of course it does. If you look through this thread you will find lots of people (including me) have replaced the Vapor with the SC8 on the stock motor.

Yes, it's a great little ESC, and unlike the Vapor isn't prone to overheating and killing itself.

Best bet is to take the Vapor ESC off the XS, and stick it in the freezer. Then, while you are waiting for it too cool off put something like an SC8 WP on and run that.

Thanks for the response, but I have already purchased a frame and built my own quad.

OK, so I have a Blade 350QX that I have a few hours of flying with. Great quad, nice and easy to fly, and a pretty good camera platform. Until Thursday when I flipped it into acro mode for a try, took off, almost immediately did a roll and stuffed it into the ground and cracked the shell in half. Timer says total flight time was around 8 seconds.

Video preview: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U7NtibR61Q0 Looks pretty sweet, may be a decent competitor to the DJI Inspire. Very interested in the price, video mentions $1,500-$2,000 which is a massive advantage over the DJI if true.

Some more info from Tower Hobbies: FEATURES Chassis: Aluminum, with side impact bumpers Drive: Four wheel with CVD driveshafts Radio: 2.4GHz Steering Servo: ADS-15M metal geared with 208 oz/in torque, .12 sec @ 60

Yeah, looks like a cheaper version of the Capo that Medic did. I quite like it.

I do, and to be honest it's had naff all use. Not because of anything wrong with the car, just had little time to take it out. It's fun, and could probably handle really well if you know how to set it up - I don't.

The shell probably isn't that bad, but the gray is just gopping. Paint it in a better colour and it *might* look OK...ish.

Funny thing is, I have never had a nitro rc, and I never will. Yet I could tell straight away how to use this tool.

I think some of the comments are misunderstanding how the tool is supposed to be used. It's not to show which way to turn to adjust the mixture, but to show you precisely how much you have actually turned the screw. It makes it blindingly obvious exactly where an 1/8th of a turn is, removing a bit of guesswork.

This one suit you? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ball-Bearing-Set-For-HPI-Savage-XS-SS-22-Rubber-Seal-/161369591918?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item259260906e

For me, when it first beeps I slow down, that usually lets the battery recover a bit. I continue playing, but with maybe a little lighter throttle. Once it starts beeping constantly and doesn't stop after 5-10 seconds at full stop then play time is over. That's my strategy. But read my sig for my disclaimer.

That's not strictly true though. It's likely that the battery is sagging to 2.8v under load, then recovering to 3.8 at rest. I gave up on the LVC on all my SC8s because of this, and I use an external buzzer/checker instead. Only a couple

I'll stick to my 2x4 sat under the length of the chassis thankyouverymuch.

Yup, exactly what I'm talking about. Why isn't lowering the ride height with these a good idea? Genuine question, I want to know.

On my Hyper 7 to lower the ride height you just have to adjust the screws on the arms next to the diffs. Can't you just do that?

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=component+shop

The green swarf is debris from the slipper clutch pad. If that much has come off then it's probably time to replace it. The output shaft will only turn when the slipper clutch grips, so without the adjusting spring it won't grip. It'll be fine when fully assembled. Read up in the manual about how to properly adjust the slipper clutch. *edit* The gearbox isn't a sealed unit so you can't put diff oil in. A bit of thick grease should do the job, just don't get any on the slipper clutch.