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Anybody running a Vader XB


Spriggan

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The Hong Kong seller has a couple of pairs of the wheels available at the moment, I was going to grab a second set and hold them in stock, but I'm hoping I can get by with having one spare wheel will keep me going for a while, and thought I would pass the chance of grabbing a bargain on to my fellow Vader drivers.

The pic shows the 6mm holes, but the set I received were for the 10mm shafts so went straight on.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=221003156426#ht_950wt_1140

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Thanks fella for highlighting my post, Just to give you an update taking it to a local shop (20 miles away)!! they are going to look at it and see whats what, HPi have been good given me a few ideas, will just see what happens but will keep you posted!!!

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Thanks fella for highlighting my post, Just to give you an update taking it to a local shop (20 miles away)!! they are going to look at it and see whats what, HPi have been good given me a few ideas, will just see what happens but will keep you posted!!!

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Waiting to hear back from HPI, tried contacting the chap I purchased it from to get proof of his purchase in the first place but as yet no luck, ended up buying new ESC almost like for like and if HPI give me a replacement or sort our replacement for a few quid then at least I will have one spare!!!!

They said they would see what they could do but no receipt so don't really fancy my chances, sent pictures of the ESC so will keep you posted!!!

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Right, so now i've cracked a cup joint and so i also need to replace the diff oil?

Any idea what weight i need to put in there?

I think I put either 5000 or 7000wt oil in my front diff and 1000 or 3000wt in the rear.

You might be lucky like me and find you've taken out the cup that's on the crown wheel side, if you have then you only have to take the crown wheel off then and don't need to empty the diff.

The Diff comes out easy as well, just loosen the chassis screws, drop off the suspension carrier & bumper and the end comes out of the diff unit by undoing the 2 top bolts without removing it from the car. A bit of good design there.

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Nice one thanks for that as i had absolutley no idea, i did however message the MS sales team to find out what they advise.

I think, i know i found out the hard way!

I took the whole casing out before i split the diff and i was lucky that it was the crown side cup that i broke however i knocked the case over and lost all the fluid!!! oops :whistling:

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lol yeah you certainly do!

Right i just had an email back from MS and this was the reply:

"We have never had the chance to use the Vader model and alter the diff oils, however after looking online and from experience with the HPI Baja model we would recommend around 5000wt in the rear and 7000wt in the front"

So your figures are about the same.

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I cant say that i have messed around with the oil grades at all, I just grabbed what I had at hand and shoved it in.

I just worked on the basis that you want the back end fairly easy in an off road and the front a bit stiffer, at least there isn't a middle diff to worry about with the Vader.

On the track its handling very well and holding it own against the tuned up MCD's, which isn't bad considering I haven't been in the same league as them with either the Baja or Punisher. Where it gains is the low center of gravity, it undercuts the petrol's every time on the corners and can get the power down sooner.

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I have been using 1mm polyurethane sheet folded around the battery to protect either the single or double battery pack while strapped into the mounts with the valcro straps. But there have been a few occasions when they have broken free inside the car after a heavy landing and taken a right battering. Which is not great, as they are soft cells!

So I'm currently making Aluminium battery trays lined out with rubber foam to fit inside the car. The tray covers can then be secured with R clips to ensure the batteries stay securely in place...... Well thats the theory of it, I must get them fitted and tested this weekend!

Edited by Spriggan
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I have hard cased batteries and so i have folded cotton rags and the taped them underneath the velcro straps at the bottom and then taped some more either end of the trays.

They are really snug and tight fitting now and dont move a mm and are cushioned pretty good.

http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/15786-/

http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/15787-img-24611/

http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/15788-/

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I know they haven't got the best reputation but I have found that the Redcat arms were a bit tougher, they feel Softer, and do seem to be lasting better. I cant explain why as they probably come from the same factory, it may be just a different batch of plastic that made the ones I have but when you handle the Mavrick and Redcat arms along side each other, the Redcat one have more flex and sound less 'hard' when you tap them against each other. What ever the resion they are doing the job at about 1/3 the price.

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I have read on one of these forums that HPI advise to boil them in water and aparantly it makes all the difference!

I might give it a bash.

I splitt my diff down today, the stock diff oil is so thick and sticky. all cleaned up now its gleeming :thumbsup:

Yep nice and clean that! Its really nice chunky gearing in them diffs as well, they shouldn't wear out in a hurry. :thumbsup:

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