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T Maxx run in


PaClampet

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OK guys

The BIG DAY has arrived, finally snatched some time to get 3 tanks of fuel through the beast; best afternoons fun I've had in ages; like a kid with a new toy :lol:

What did impress was how well tuned it was from the factory. Started (eventually) like clockwork even in the cold and ran cleanly pretty much straight away (nice trail of blue smoke) and only cut out once (fouled plug).

Will finish job tommorrow then go for a fine tune (though its running pretty well as it is). Can't wait to really let rip!!!

2 questions:

Is there a definitive guide, web or magazine/book, on stripping and rebuilding the T Maxx and...

what are the initial mods I should consider, particularly to strengthen servos, trackrods, shocks etc (still learning this driving lark).

Finally any practical tips for learning to drive (apart from the bloody obvious .. PRACTICE)

Cheers all :good:

PS if anybody needs space to practice the disused Norton Aerodrome in Sheffield has acres of vast empty FLAT tarmac and concrete :D

Edited by PaClampet
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I think it takes quite alot to strengthen up a T-Maxx.

Your manual gives a good indication of that goes where (at least it should) in the exploded diagrams, trial and error is a good teacher.

Its a monster truck, put it on some dirt :P

You havn't seen my driving :unsure: don't want to wreck it just yet!!!

See what you mean about the exploded diagrams, should do for now :D

Cheers

Edited by PaClampet
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Breaking things is an excellent excuse to get better parts :D

Nice one :drinks:

I get the impression T Maxx is a pretty tough mutha.

Any obvious parts I should head for? (servos, diffs etc)

Cheers

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I had a T Maxx for a good 6 months+ . It is a pretty strong car, since I had it I only broke 1 A-Arm and 1 side of a bulkhead, Which cost about £10 to fix altogether.

You should upgrade the skid plates though, get some of those RPM ones, alot stronger and will protect the car alot better.

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I used to have a T-maxx (sold it for financial reasons) and am going to get another one for the summer. Currently struggling with the decision of whether to get a 2.5 at a very good price, or pay a bit more and get a 3.3.

I took my T-maxx apart a few times, and believe me it takes ages taking it apart and putting it back together. It was on my dining room table in pieces for weeks on end.

Your best resource is the Traxxas website - www.traxxas.com - from here you can get exploded diagrams and part lists.

A lot of people say that the T-maxx isn't durable when compared to a savage. I find this hard to believe for two reasons. Firstly mine had many high speed crashes into kerbs, street lamps and even a telegraph pole and only once did it actually need parts replacing. Secondly, having looked at Savages in halfords they look no where near as strong or good quality. The suspension arms actually look really flimsey - the kind of things you would expect to find on "Toy R/Cs" such as Tamiyas.

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I have had my T-Max for a good 7/8 months now, and I think I'm brilliant. I only smashed it up once due to my poor driving (Hit a bollard and smashed the bulkhead and the Suspension arms)

Cost about £15 to put right, it's not back to being tough as nails.

It was a swine to tune, but I dunno if that was because it is actually a swine or my inexperience as it was my first truck.

I have bought a savage since, but I still haven't built it ^_^

Kain

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I found the T-maxx difficult to tune in, but it was me at fault. While refuelling it, I accidentally allowed some grit to get in the fuel tank which blocked the fuel line.

When I bought my Jato, which uses the same engine as the T-maxx, I knew exactly what I was doing and had it running perfectly very quickly.

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u'r trippin if u think savs are weak, the t maxx looks easy to work on? savs can be a pain in the ass until u get used to em

how were u gettin dirt in the tank btw?

My fuelling bottle fel side ways onto the floor and some grit got stuck the the nozzle. When I refuelled the Maxx the grain of grit fell off the bottle and got lodged in the fuel line. Only discovered this when I took it to the model shop complaining about it overheating and cutting out - the grit was blocking the fuel line and leaning the mixture.

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Hi i have a savage and a T-Maxx.The savage is deffinatley stronger than the Maxx but the Maxx is still a strong truck and nowhere near as weak as alot of people seem to make out.The savage is purely built for strength and is mega tuff but my Maxx handles way better than the sav and when tuned rite the 2.5 realy fly's for such a little engine.

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Hi i have a savage and a T-Maxx.The savage is deffinatley stronger than the Maxx but the Maxx is still a strong truck and nowhere near as weak as alot of people seem to make out.The savage is purely built for strength and is mega tuff but my Maxx handles way better than the sav and when tuned rite the 2.5 realy fly's for such a little engine.

But the Maxx is more than strong enough as the wieght is only 80% of a savvy that's why it doesn't rely so heavily on alloy, also the reason the "Little Engine" does so well.

Whatever you might think, if you're a cra# driver/basher then both will get destroyed in roughly the same amount of time.

The Maxx has been around for years and it's the original truck that everyone else followed I understand?? There's a very good reason for it

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