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Pull start conversion


Mr Drifta

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Anyone know if its possible to convert the ME22-16 engine from a bad boy( :044: )maverick xb to something better than the pullstart method...?

Snapped it last night, got one on order but just wondered if its a doable/worthy addition?

As always cheers in advance :arigato:

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Cheers chaps im still learning here :whistling:

being a div i know but really trying to look after this motor....me and my boy spent 2.5hrs tonight cleaning/oiling/refreshing bits on her,,come up like new so promised him we'd go

out 2morro but waiting for the pull start..hence thought about a cheeky cheat using drill on bearing..

Clockwise it is then.

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Also....if you use a drill, be very careful. If it has a screwdriver setting with a torque facility on it, use that. Teh danger with adrill is it has a lot more power than a purpose built roto-starter.

If hte motor were to hydro lock, a rotostart wouldn;t turn it over...but a drill would. This can result in broken pistons, conrods and general carnage. Also, don't spin it too long if it doesn't fire. Not good for the bearings.

As far as hte one-way bearing goes, it grips one way, and not the other. This allows hte motor to spin and the pullstart to recoil at the same time. Without a one-way bearing you would be in big trouble when the motor started! IT would wind in the pullstart cord and keep going! Because it only grips one way, the drill won;t do anything if it's set to spin in the wrong direction. All you will do is spin the bearing.

Last thing (phew) ....check if your bearing is attached or not. Some motors have it loose and just slid over the shaft. Others are fixed.

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Also....if you use a drill, be very careful. If it has a screwdriver setting with a torque facility on it, use that. Teh danger with adrill is it has a lot more power than a purpose built roto-starter.

If hte motor were to hydro lock, a rotostart wouldn;t turn it over...but a drill would. This can result in broken pistons, conrods and general carnage. Also, don't spin it too long if it doesn't fire. Not good for the bearings.

As far as hte one-way bearing goes, it grips one way, and not the other. This allows hte motor to spin and the pullstart to recoil at the same time. Without a one-way bearing you would be in big trouble when the motor started! IT would wind in the pullstart cord and keep going! Because it only grips one way, the drill won;t do anything if it's set to spin in the wrong direction. All you will do is spin the bearing.

Last thing (phew) ....check if your bearing is attached or not. Some motors have it loose and just slid over the shaft. Others are fixed.

Cheers for all the above fella really appreciated :thumbsup:

Tbh i heard some horrors about drill starting so going to be safe/patient and wait for the pull to arrive.

The bearing on mine just slides on the crank, no attachment to secure it there other than when the pully is over it, so guessing thats all good....bearings in good con and grips well but gonna order another for spares....

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Or get a Starter box mate.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ansmann-RC-Nitro-Car-Starter-Box-1-10-1-8-Twin-Motor-/250900823686?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item3a6adabe86#ht_1323wt_952

IMO Don't **** about with retro fit rotor starts, it will all end in tears!

(Its just a box with a big rubber wheel that you lower your cars flywheel onto to spin the engine over quickly to start it)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iycg2PekCew&feature=related

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Generally they use the same engine mount or the engine makers would be daft!

noticed with hpi engines they all mount pretty similiar, my rush evos T15 snapped the crank pin so hopefully fitting the engine from this http://www.modelsport.co.uk/hpi-firestorm-10t-rtr-2.4ghz/rc-car-products/39705 into her if my schumacher pro sells....and then i spied the neon on here and as mine is ni on concorse i had the above idea....

Oh and cheers for all your previous help KS, the neon a belta now :hahadance:

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