BaldyMan

Are there any alternative body shells for the FTX Vantage? I've noticed pretty quickly that it's made of paper and it also seems a bit small. It bulges on one side where the cables are tied down so there must not be much airflow around the esc cooling fan. I don't mind painting and cutting up a body just to get one to fit. I'll probably do the old gorilla tape method to protect them as well

New oil shocks for the Rising Fighter arrived, courtesy of www.jk-rc.co.uk. The rears are perfect but there's a bit of rebound on the fronts so I'm wondering if I need softer springs or different oil

My personal opinion but I think some of the older model Tamiyas like Mad Bull, Hornet, etc are best kept basically as stock. I've a Rising Fighter and I've spent probably the same amount again hopping it up and then hopping it back down. The only things I've kept are the suspension brace to stop the body slapping on acceleration and a new set of oil shocks because the pogo sticks just chatter so much. I find the sound of creaking plastic up there with nails on a black board. I know that many parts are not expensive but it's a chore to bend back or replace those flimsy little steering rods rather than have proper turn buckles and if I was inclined to build and tune up a Tamiya kit again I'd be looking at a much more modern platform like the DT-03 or TT-02B. If you want something a bit more "monster" then perhaps the Aqroshot and pick up some off road wheels. I just think if you're going to go for more power you'd get more out of it, more durability in a newer model.

3rd for Arrma Senton. Wish I'd bought one now

https://www.jk-rc.co.uk/tamiya-parts/new-mabuchi-rs540sh-rs540-sh-27t-540-silver-can-motor-1967-4546-4547-4548-4549-4550-p Bookmark this website. They do motors in 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5 packs. Also all of the oil shocks for all of the models are available as well as other spare parts. I found the site on a YouTube channel. I ordered oil shocks for my daughter's Rising Fighter from them. £18 delivered. They also do a better version for £30 but I'll see how the budget ones go first

That's it mate really. When you consider the financial and also time investment involved in doing the scrim tape and shoe goo routine then you really have to ask yourself if it's all worth it. How much is an hour or 2 of your time? Is it the price of a new bodyshell anyway? Wouldn't you just like to get a new bodyshell and paint it a different colour just for a change? Granted I don't want a body to disintegrate on it's first crash but I really don't see the point in going to the effort people do to protect their body shells

They were only a few quid so if they don't last then it's no crying shame. It's more to protect the offroad tyres on the occasion I just want to blast up and down the street with it. I think I will pick up the program card and probably have a look at the aluminium 12mm hex nuts for the wheels too.

Yea I was watching videos and comparing the Stampede, Hoss and Maxx. It's like they've got a budget, mid range and top end model but then there are different spec levels in them too. I was looking at the Bandit and then looked at the Associated RB10 but then the wife whinged about prices so ended up with a Vantage. At least I can spend a bit more on wheels and bit and pieces and still have money to spare on what I'd have spent on the others, because I'd still have wanted road wheels, extra batteries, stuff like that anyway.

So what's with all the different models of E Revo trucks? The 1/10 scale is huge and looks more like a 1/8 scale. What's the difference between that and the Sledge? Same with the 1/10 Rustler and the 1/16 E Revo really. I'm baffled by Traxxas, they seem to have multiple products that are crossing over into each other's arena. Like why buy a Wide Maxx over an E Revo?

Really? So I shouldn't be keeping my spare screws, nuts and bolts in mine?

Well the Vantage arrived with the new Etronix transmitter. I've noticed there's a bit of a dead spot though when I go to pull the trigger. Is this something I can alter with throttle trim?

It's maybe possible you could use an FTX Ravine battery but you'd need to measure the battery tray to see if it would fit, or maybe do a modification. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/overlander-2200-mah-74v-li-ion-battery-pack-mini-tamiya-for-ftx-ravine-and-buzzsaw-1334512

Tried it out with some road tyres too, really grippy. Made up with it so far

FTX Vantage brushless arrived today. Needed a bit of steering trim sorting out but the suspension feels very nice

New boots in anticipation of a new buggy. Fastrax arrows pre-glued. They feel like they've had thicker foam inserts fitted compared to the last set of arrows I bought for a different buggy

Only if you are blasting it around your neighbour's drive since he bought a Tesla 😈😈😈

Hi mate, glad you're enjoying it then. I think the common consensus is that it's best kept to 2S regardless of what the marketing bumpf claims. At least you are able to replace parts with off-hand parts where they don't have anything suitable.

Put the Fastrax Arrow rears on but it just flips over so I think there's too much grip. Swapped to fronts on the rear and it's marginally better. Took off some garbage oil shocks that were too stiff and too short as well as removing the suspension mod because it just made the car creak. The car is back to being bone stock besides the rear wheels. I'm now undecided as whether to even bother ordering any more oil shocks. Edit: I've managed to get the little piece back in to stop the axle lifting and it doesn't creak now.

Got the nipper to nip up some road wheels for the Rising Fighter

Every joint adds resistance to the circuit but you're talking about a tiny amount. I'd be more concerned about adapting a lipo battery to fit a Tamiya plug rather than a Traxxas one.

I'm charging up 2 x Zeee 2S, 5200mAh 50C LiPos that I picked up as a pair on ebay for £29.99 right now. I'll let you know how I get on with them. I also have a Goldbat 3S, 6200mAh 50C LiPo that I got from Amazon that I've had no problems with.

Hi mate, I hope you're having better luck with your trucks than I did with my Quantum+ XT Flux. I sold mine on eBay this week as I wanted to cut my losses with the constant repairs. I'll give you my honest opinion, I don't think they are terrible at all, they just can't handle 3S. It's just too much power IMHO and despite the ESC and motor being 3S capable I'd say the chassis, suspension arms, rods and everything else just isn't really capable of having the extra force put through them. All my drive cups got chewed up and I've only really put about 15-20 battery packs through it in the time I've had it. Mine was a rocket ship on 3S, really quick and got amazing air on the jumps but the truck would just be destroyed on landing. A little cart wheel was enough to smash the shell to pieces and break the wing mount. I highly recommend the HD wing mount as it is really flexible and not brittle at all, I'd say that's a pretty essential upgrade once you snap your wing mount because you'll just snap it again if you buy the standard one. Then the metsafil HD suspension lowers. I should have bought them immediately because I've been through 5 lowers in my time. If you just catch a kerb when sliding a corner then it's game over for the standard lowers. Also my rear Turnbuckle rod ends seemed to get warped so look out for that. Again I'd say the culprit was me running it on 3S when the truck really isn't built for it. Keep it on 2S and it'll probably last much longer

Are these Tamiya buggies really worth upgrading to brushless? I'm sure something like a Carson "sports tuned" equivalent or the HPI Firebolt would liven the car up no end. Really I'd be looking at a DT-03 or TT-02B model if I wanted to do a brushless Tamiya. Personal opinion obviously.

Absolutely nothing to be afraid of LiPo batteries for. You've got one inside your mobile phone. Just don't smash it up or leave it in the hot sun where it may overheat. When you charge them and store them just keep them in a LiPo sack, or better still a metal ammo box. It just adds a layer of protection between the battery and yourself in the event of a fire. Bare in mind that the chances of a fire are slim to none, you'd need a seriously defective battery or to have seriously abused it for one to catch fire. With regards to Tamiya shocks you should check out https://www.jk-rc.co.uk/ they do budget and premium grade oil shocks for all manner of Tamiya and other popular RC cars. As well as spares and upgrades. I wish I'd found the site before I ordered a set of shocks from China that ended up being a full 10mm too short on the fronts and rear meaning I can't use them and I've wasted £25

Not on the front, they're still the little pin thingy