Fred barlow

Well we used to travel 1hr 20 min on public transport to race at the nearest indoor track (but due to classes changing on the days we can go out indoor stuffs mothballed indefinitely), as for bashing I'm in the south Pennines so there's loads of space for off-roading but the town I'm in doesn't have many areas that's safe to run on-road stuff

Check your motor wire connectors are pushed together properly

The fail safe is set when you bind the reciever, so it's worth rebinding with the radio

It's a low voltage system, so it's no more of a risk than a mobile phone charger and if you are worried about any fires you can always use an inline rcd

Yeah you don't need it but it's better to have it and not need it (just like house or tech insurance), its worth having at £20 for a year and with so many Karen's in the world today it's good to have a national organisation that has your interest at heart,

Well as I read the handbook and reading their Facebook posts it covers you for safe responsible park fun to serious competition, there's a bashing club started close to me that are brca affiliated, its great for kids as if they want they can participate in a bit of racing Iv screenshotted the brca membership joining page which shows the areas it's aimed at

Yeah get the brca, your covered for racing to a bit of fun down the park, these pics are of the handbook, £20 worth spending as your covered if you fancy having a try at racing,

Should have also said the other parts of the RC game are as accumulative I had over 100 planes (a lot were old timers cast offs or resto jobs) but they got me up to the LMA display pilot level and a couple of boats until life screwed up

Have as many as you want (or can store) iv been back in the hobby for 3 years now after about a 10 year break (thanks to my partner wanting a try), I had 3 cars that I kept but now iv got 22 (13 runners) + several parts cars and my girlfriend has 7. But the thing with this hobby is you always look for one more project

Iv got an old Schumacher sst99 running old brushed motor and 6 cell NiMH battery and it's been clocked at 45mph (brushless/ lipo upgrade it'll be over 60) but I just have them as fast as is fun for where you're running and nothing breaks

It'll work but pull 1 red wire out of the servo plug (heat shrink it back to the wire so you can use the ESC again easily) from 1 of the ESC as double bec doesn't do the reciever any good. But set the 2 escs individually so the end points are set the same

The problem with changing it to metal moves the failure point to the main drive shaft or diff, I don't know of any metal ones but I'd keep it plastic and keep a couple of spares in hand or go for the rw 48dp one instead it can handle a bit more power, we race ours but we've not had to change ours but it should only be a 20 min job to swap it out, There is a group on Facebook for the tt01e racing truck that can be a good source of information as there's a super truck class (somewhere in the world) that use brushless motors but with us having the stock regs I didn't make a note of the info

Nice, what motor are you running? Me and my partner have one each that we race at our local track (stock spec)

Yep glue them, I race on carpet and when I started I didn't glue them as I wanted to reuse the rim and quickly found my mistake as the grip would just pull them off the rim, I just use 4 or 5 spots of cheap super glue on both sides which holds them enough but I should be able to get the old tyre off without too much hastle

I can't see any reason you can't, you need to gently grind the contacts to get a surface the solder will stick to, use a big ended soldering iron (they type used on stained glass windows) and flux, also you'll need to source some battery bars. I used to build my own packs when the cheapest option was splitting cordless drill packs

We run 2 cheapo abisma sr2 radios and we use the pound shop rechargeable batteries (2 for a quid) they are only low capacity (300mah) but they last a full days racing and we carry a spare set of 8 also a charge lead to charge them on our fast charger

Engine orientation is optional really, you have better cooling, easier to find props and to start as a tractor (but the motor is close to the back pushing the centre of gravity back), and as a pusher the motor is closer to the centre of gravity throttle linkage will be easier but pusher props are a bit limited size wise A tip get an engine with a rear needle (or even a 4 stroke as it throws bigger props so you can put a multi blade prop on easier), it's going to save your fingers (I'm also a flyer so aero engines have bitten me) and the fuel tank outlet has to be at the same height as the carb (or a header tank anyway as aero engines run a pressurised system it works for helicopters so could work for this)

Had an electric one (and turned down a couple of nitro ones may years a go) depends if you want a wood one or fiberglass for wood there will be plans available online to download on outerzone or aerofred. Fiberglass would be a bit harder to find as they were a product of the 90s when fiberglass was big in the modeling fraternity, My only advice is twin motors, have the skirt separate to the drive preferably electric so it doesn't sink if the engine stalls

Try it without calibrating if the manual tells you but you can always calibrate it if needed

Yeah as it could be slightly off otherwise

Hi @Kev the Rev, that's cool strange iv got 6 in a job lot to restore (4 mk1s and 2 mk2s) the best 2 mk1s are bound for the shelf (period restored) other 2 mk1s are going to be just runners and my mk2s I'm going to convert to electric with Anglia and escort shells , yeah I'd seen your post sadly that's the 1 part iv got for them all (mixed up chassis mark wise), I need to find engine's, silencers, clutches, spur gears, servo savers, axle joints (available from mardave still), a couple of tanks, axle's (that I'm looking at making modified versions as well as stock), spiked wheels and tyres and the mounts for the body and tank I've got enough bits to get 3 together as rollers and the other 3 statics

Yeah @Kev the Rev iv been on that page a few times it's got some good info, iv got hold of a few marauders that need restoring (if I can find the missing bits that ain't made any more) and that site had the manual for them

We found stands are useful at the track for putting additive on the tyres but instead of getting 2 proper ones we use 2 small spares boxes (from the pound shop)

I agree with nick it's probably the pinion has just come loose, did you tighten the grub screw down on the flat part of the motor shaft?

I use Aldi handles (exacto type) that are good but you need to time it right to get them, and I use blades from the pound shop craft knifes