Redback

Please link said custom motor plates please. More custom spur testing, this time will welding and axial 40t spur work? Think ill keep this thread clear of my experiments and move this project over to the crawler thread. Here is were the problem lies, going smaller means moving the motor closer to the diff cup that drives the front, there is almost no tolarance to go smaller pinion and there is no room to go larger spur, the transmission is horrid imo.

If your running that often you dont need to worry about storage charge. 3.8v is storage levels, you will need a battery checker to pull them off charge around 80% (3.8v per cell) or a decent charger that has a storage charge mode. Good info here. https://3dinsider.com/voltage-store-lipo-batteries/

Beefed up the stock outlaw transmission, Melted in some mod 1 pinions they dont fit, but now do. 🔥⚙️ The idea is to see if using pinions will work as the shaft is 5mm, trying some i have for the first test, the pinion is too thick so no bearing at the front but who needs bearings right 😝 Edit: Part 2 Chopped an old chassis for the long 70mm can motor. Simple move of some screw holes and a bit of cutting. 4s power 🤪

That really flies for 2wd, great driving!

Awesome, keen to hear how you get on and what you choose to go with. Drive safe!

Aww man serious crash, what speed did it finish at? Hope its not to bad!

Doesnt have to be sensorless, diffrent escs and motors will perform diffrently, sensored is the way to go to remove the cogging, the max 10 will saftey cut off if it stalls 3 times (cogging), this will still happen on hills and long grass due to the overgearing of the truck, either feather the throttle to avoid the cogging, go sensored and or lower kv longer can motor eg 3565 but watch the shaft size theres no 5mm pinions for the outlaw just yet. The issue with the stock brushless electrics is its only 45amp, the next one up is Etronix Photon 2.1FW 60amp and thats better and waterproof / potted when the stock brushless esc is splashproof and just got a rubber gasket vs being potted The hobbywing thats 60a has much higher peak along with a staggered rotor that reduces cogging somewhat, next up would be the max 10 stc, depends on what your driving is like were you drive it and what you want from the car.

The stock brushless is sensorless and the esc isnt great the next version up etroix offer is much better and actually waterproof, but the whole thing lacks the power to move the truck. Hobbywing ezrun max 10 with 3652 3200kv motor on 2s 35c+ 5000mha lipo should give you a good blast for 15min or so. Look at replacing the brass pinion with a steel one and pick up some spare spur gears whilst at it. Jump over to the Outlaw owners if you havent already, some good details on mods etc. Outlaws only come with 17t they can be upgraded to 23t with a motor plate but the truck is over geared as it is. When you put the brushless setup in, was the motor plate the right direction, was the pinion meshed with the spur and was the grub screw engaged with the motor shaft on the pinion.

Axe is just how hobbywing branded their brushless rock crawler setups.

You can crawl with that motor and a diffrent esc, as castle sidewinder 4 and field programmer, will get you grand results. Maybe not axe performance but it will be better than any cheap crawler system by far imo. But still not better than a 1080 if your looking at brushed. That being said the sidewinder 4 does also work brushed. So good bang for your buck imo.

Very cool, did you use the ftx kanyon steering turnbuckles? Maybe just put the videos on youtube, they do the compression or try google drive they also do some conversion.

The motor might be better in another rig, or resold. Depends on what you plan to do and how fast you want to go. It will also be in a spot that will get it caked in mud and its can is open if a stick or bit of stone gets in an cracks off a magnet, thats a sad day. In my lads truck we use this. Hobbywing Ezrun-3656 4700Kv Motor https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/264759/ It works well on the castle esc for modulation and has tons of punch on hobbywing for bashing. That esc should be ok, i havent used it tho so cant speak for its performance or tweaking. Other motor combos that should give good performace here. Hobbywing MAX10 ESC Combo With 3652Sl 4000Kv Brushless Motor https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/300323/ Hobbywing MAX10 SCT ESC Combo With 3660Sl 4600Kv Brushless Motor https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=420926 The stronger esc the more dragbreak the better as you will need it.

@Eclipsed4everany reason you went with the revolver, are you not worried about dirt and muk getting into it, i took mine out for use in the summer it was also way to slow being such a low kv. watch the temps on 3s running to long seemed to get hot hard to tell without blowing air through it and feeling the air or with a temp gun. Did you get an email about the g1 gearbox? What esc you looking at? I would go with a castle sidewinder 4 esc if your wanting crawling modulation, as a bonus they come with highkv sensored motors as the esc alone are out of stock forever the combo is pretty good value, also got a sensored motor for if you want to move to a mamba x or another sensored esc later. You guys locked your diffs or gummed them? I'm not using bluetack anymore, went to clean it out and rebuild a diff, impossible to clean out, so just use very stiff diff fluid in the diffs from now on. I cant see the videos for some reason, love the rear steer setup, might have issues with your battery placment with the new gearbox, intrested to see how you solve that. I was going to have an issue running the outlaw rear shaft at the front so opted for a mauler one. There's also 3 diffrent rear shafts for the outlaw, a plastic headed one, a plastic metal headed one, and a full metal one. You will need the metal rear one not a bangood or ebay knock off the metal is weak and will snap under load. FTX one is a must and sadly a pretty bad product on arrival, you must threadlock and shrink wrap it (if you dont use shrink wrap it will spit pins over and over i promise you that) The plastic ones will twist, never had one snap but it twisted it up like a spring. As for the front shaft. I think i went with mauler shaft to ensure the clearances around the cv joints was good, also as the drive is high torque and the fxt plastic shafts twist, having a more solid front shaft i felt would be better, the mauler is still plastic but way more beafy and better designed to not twist i wasnt sure at the start but it can handel the torque and the rpm. Any rear driveshaft up front should work aslong as it looks like the mauler one where the diff cups mount to the drive shaft outputs, this is were clearences are tight and the outlaw ones wouldnt work. I can say i have had no failures on the mauler shafts after many many hours of use, the mods here are proven and have many miles on the clock. If you use anything else it might not be able to take the power and might fail, please bare that in mind.

Did you get the usb programmer or another one? You should contact hobbywing / the store you purchased the esc from.

Im guess its out of stock as tried from them in the past their site isnt up to date, the gmade boxes come through cml uk distribution and i got the last one last year sadly.

Motors sold, reduced the price on the trx4 esc to go!

Yes this is what i would call trail driving / crawling, i think the gearbox will transform the car and will perform well here. Not sure what the delay could be, is the motor timing set high or low, is the motor endpoints / neutral ranges set right? For ccw or cw rotation? A sensored system will make the truck drive much better and supply far stronger drag break that will be needed for this type of driving, otherwise the 120a esc should have enough power to deliver. The motor should also be good for 3s so might be ok, can only test and if it doesnt work look at a faster motor. Happy to hear it might be useful for you, im also quite impatient so got all these parts from uk shops, sourcing them can be tricky. Cant assure you how good any other transmission will handel the power, noticed on youtube people have done a crawler mod like this with the mauler gearbox. I was going to try this one but didnt like the high gear dp so opted for the wider 32dp mesh on the g1 to limit any chance of failure. Along with the sealed transmission vs the mauler thats got an open transmission so dirt can get it, unless its got a motor pinion / spur cover to keep out the muk. Looking forward to seeing how both of your trucks workout and if you find the mods workable or have better solutions 😃

Awesome, im keen to hear how you get on with it as have issues with my 34t pinion over in the limitless owners thread, I hope you dont have issues are you using the 40 series mount (stock?) It is and a pretty chunky step up from the max 8, yet to give it a real run, half the work is in the build. Blower seems a must.

You havent run the car that long right?, heard bad things about losi diffs recently like the sun gears are made of butter. I think it was a baja ray or something you would have expected for the price has hardened diff gears. Hope it was down to a shim but like you say, shouldnt really have needed it considering the lack of packs right?

Gday, @Eclipsed4ever sorry to hear about your outlaw woes, they really are a problem child. So for general trailing i think 3200kv was ok but for bashing, any form of speed a higher kv motor is needed. After just coming from a short test of the stock transmission again, these are much slower and have less torque range when your mid throttle. As the gearing is so low the motor really has to scream this isnt made for speed bashing, more akin to the driving displayed in the videos. Also please note the 5.9' tires gear the truck up quite a bit, but i snap wheel hex pins on every outing. Still fighting the axles for wheels that fit right. Got some progress to post when i get time. The transmission has isnt ideal for speed or bashing hard imo due to the way the system is mounted you have a big motor hanging out of a transmission so all the forces are on the motor plate when you land a jump. Jumping the outlaw is pretty risky anyway as things like to snap. The g1 transmission setup has held up well to high rpm brushless power, recently checked and no wear on the gears. Getting parts was a challenge, i used a couple of shops to source the parts, i was once able to buy a full transmission set (removes the need for most of the gmade part), but still had to source the out of stock parts from another shop. I would go for these transmissions if your looking at putting in some power, however other ones might be better suited to speed due to the limits on pinion size. I've yet to experiment with any other transmission setups but im thinking a buggy style spur gear on drive shaft setup would be the way to go for speed bashing, always thinking of ways to improve the build for a revision 3 or speedrun / bash project. I don't know about the mauler gearbox ratio's and i'm having a hard time finding the output ratio for this. I think with the size of the mauler stock spur gear this transmission is faster, but with mods you can put a tiny spur on the mauler transmission just not sure how it would handle the speed. I still need to update this thread with more clear details, ive been distracted by the go fast project after the sucsess of these go slow ones Thanks for your support and intrest in the build, i look forward to seeing yours! 😀

Not sure what you mean by new, there are many 21t motors out there, this might be the first ftx branded 21t motor, If you want a decent brushed motor thats outlaw tested, i have a trx4 550 can motor that i can cut the shaft down on for you so you dont have to modify your transmission and it fits. Check the motors and esc thread in for sales, got a bunch of brushed motors in there.

Thank you, i will take a look at those, like the idea of using 8mm pinions i assume they come with a sleeve for 5mm or do you have to find ones that fit? 1650 is the motor kv and the system is rated to 8s yes. I know im probably gearing a bit tall right now a the motor got hot from a little test, but i cant fit this motor and the stock spur :( unless i can fit it onto the 40 series mount and that works somehow? I assumed you need the 50 series mount to take 50mm can motors as the gearingchart shows the max can sizes. Maybe the 49mm can will fit on the 40mm mount, i didnt actually try 🤦‍♂️

Right yes sorry when i say spool i mean spur, please excuse my wording. The 27t pinion will not mesh with the stock spur gear on the 50 series motor mount. Using a 34t pinion the biggest i could get, just barely meshes with the stock spur as per the above image. The issue seems to be the motor mount, why would the stock setup not work with this mount for example?

Got the scorched parts, titanium drive shafts and spool installed, now able to push it to its limits and max out the motor without the drive shaft going mad. The sheer power of this on 6s, wheelspin even at 60% throttle. Going to need some form of motor fan / blower to keep everything 🥶

Help please, my 34t pinion just fits with the stock spool and should fit with the smaller 29t speed spool but as you can see from the small tooth engagment here with the stock spool, the larger 34t pinion just engages the spool teeth. The motor mount is maxed, its a 50 series motor plate for the 49 motor as the motor wouldnt fit on the 40 series mount. So when the speed spool is installed it doesnt engage the pinion at all, what have i done wrong 😢