Badcrumble

I've not built a TT-01E but have various Tamiya. As stated above, you will need a bearing kit to get the most out of the drivetrain . Ideally metal shielded in the gearbox, rubber in anything facing the elements. RC Bearings TT-01E package If you think this is going to be more than a one-off (and they can get addictive) then a JIS screwdriver set would be advisable). Tamiya use JIS screws which are a slightly different profile to Philips. Philips drivers can damage the heads of a JIS screw. However, they aren't essential if you go gently. Lubricating the screws prior to insertion into the fresh plastic may help. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=386323 To remove plastic from sprues neatly, then side cutters are handy but I used a craft knife first time out. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?products[query]=side cutters For paint you will need something specific for the lexan body. Lexan paint is 'PS', hard plastic (wing mirrors, rear wings, etc) use 'TS'. Tamiya PS white As for upgrades (or hop-ups as they are commonly known) then steering is usually the first area to receive attention TT-01 Steering set That's all I can think of for now, there's probably more! Oh, metal hexes are a good upgrade over the plastic ones.

The JK remains untouched with the front dampers sitting at home on my work desk (AKA the dining table) while I fart about crafting Christmas presents. So it doesn't feel too unloved when I take home the SCX10.3 kit that I picked up this morning, it has some nice new inner front fenders

Oh wow! Thanks @Oh How Original! This this giveaway is very generous of you and congratulations to @Fuzzock with what is a really original idea - I hope we get to see it brought to life soon!

Thanks @Redback, this is a mid-long term build plan but I couldn’t resist getting parts together while I had discounts available. Thanks for the advice on gearbox placement, shuffling it around on the desk I had decided on forward facing, you’ve convinced me it is the right way to go. I really want to run the Outlaw stock until it breaks (might not be that long, given their rep) and then transfer to Crawler spec. That’s a 13T pinion with a 56T spur which is standard for this AX10 style transmission found on the SCX10ii. The Wraith has a 12T pinion as standard. Not quite sure where I need to go from here but it will be fun researching! (Edit: I think it is 32dp) In theory the gearbox can be held by four screws but I would like to put a plate / mount under the spur to hold it secure - especially as there is a screw hole under there. So a little light fab work to do. But first, I need to finish my trail truck (only over a year in the making)!

Here's my 2021 Outlaw crawler mod project so far. A metal chassis plus front and rear suspension holders, servo mounts and carbon front shock tower. Gearbox is an Injora SCX10ii clone. It feel quite nice and smooth and has been greased. I have a Holmes Hobby CrawlMaster Sport 540 13T to try out and will use an existing / get another Hobbywing 1080. I need to look at a pinion. I'll be Nimh initially but I'm edging towards LiPo. EDIT: Hmm, photos don't work..🙁 Fixed ! 😃

In that case this might help @DartmoorTrails. A few people have out this body on the longer chassis. You tube linky I mean the one with the yellow body from this list.

I wish I could spend some time on it @DartmoorTrails! There are some good YouTube videos that I have totally ignored (by cutting out all the decent mounting points earlier in my build) . What chassis are you using? Did it turn out to bea 2dr?

The JK has been somewhat neglected of late as non-RC projects have dominated my limited spare time. So I have ordered some inner front fenders from Shapeways to give the rig a bit of love. They will hopefully also provide another route get the body mounted - one of the big puzzles left to solve.

Listed slightly over £260 here too https://www.makeitbuildit.co.uk/ftx-outback-texan-1-10-trail-rtr-red-94286 Think it is a Black Friday deal.

Some discussion in this thread which suggests the Austar isn't a direct clone I have one of the Austar gearboxes in the post to me, I'll have to crack it open when I get it. I've checked the eBay listing - it states that the internal gears are metal.

You take the blue (and white) pill - the story ends, you wake up in your bed and believe whatever you want to believe. Actually, don't let it end - let's see more of this creation!

I was watching a recent vid from GCM Racing in which they mentioned bump steer on the IFS kit, apparently sorted by an item from Bowhouse RC. https://bowhouserc.com/n2r-steering-rack-for-element-enduro-ifs/

That's brilliant @Redback, I'm on page 55 of the Outlaw Owners thread so I'm playing catch up. The more I read, the more I think I need to move to LiPo... Looking forward to seeing your developments!

I believe you can https://img2.associatedelectrics.com/pdf/cars_and_trucks/Enduro/Sendero_Trail_Truck/Enduro-Transmission-inst.pdf Stealth X: The Stealth X gearbox allows the driver to change the front to rear drive ratios with 3 separate ratio adjustments to the rear drive shaft. The driver has the option to flip the gearbox direction (motor mount facing the front) the optional inverse top shaft (#42024) is required.

Thanks for the parts list and the photos of revision 2 - it really gives a clear picture of what goes where. My brushed Outlaw is totally stock but I need a plan for when it breaks! I like the slow / fast ability it has though I doubt I'll get your pace - my fleet is still NiMH powered and I'll probably stay brushed.

Baby steps...

We didn't do pumpkins this year but this was an effort of mine from a couple of years ago...

Thank you RC4WD! So, next steps are to - Get those front dampers built and fitted - Re-do the rear damper mounts to reduce the overall height and add strength - Rear body mounts - Front body mounts - Panel the rear cover - my neighbour has given me another load of lolly sticks so I hopefully have enough now

I had another look at your last photo - makes total sense!

Quick question - I'm hoping to answer this myself... Why cut down both sleeve and shaft, rather than just shaft? Is it so there is the maximum contact between the larger diameter part of the shaft and the sleeve?

Take a look at Hobbyking and their European warehouse to see if they have stock. They might have comparable chargers too. Something like... https://hobbyking.com/en_us/accuell-s60-ac-charger-eu-plug.html?queryID=5359643ea24e92ff4013aa6b28afc7b8&objectID=45265&indexName=hbk_live_magento_en_us_products Be warned - I have no frame of reference!!

I haven't seen one with that cell size (2/3 AF) greater than 1600mah unfortunately. I don't know whether a SubC cell pack (standard 1:10 scale battery) would fit in your vehicle. They are typically something like Length: 127mm, Width: 43mm, Height: 23mm. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=383051 Larger cell and higher capacity = longer run time. Also means more weight - why is why LiPo would probably be a better option.

I've not gone LiPo (yet) but yes, you'll need something safe to store batteries in. Here's some 'light' reading.. That Overlander charger is the one I was looking at if switching to LiPo .

Your battery pack has a Mini Tamiya plug. LiPo batteries often have different connectors such as Deans (also known as T plug?). The good news is that the manual for your vehicle who’s that you can move the jumper on your combined ESC / RX to accommodate LiPo so you just need a battery with an appropriate terminal. You can get adapters for Deans to Mini Tamiya https://www.overlander.co.uk/male-deans-to-female-mini-tamiya-conversion-lead.html I’m not sure if the one linked has the correct male / female plugs for your needs, there are loads out there on EBay or from regular stockists like Modelsport, Hobbyking, etc.

That Yota is looking lovely! Hope you get it fixed soon!