GMballistic

Yep agree chassis looks great, ...in for the updates.

I did some testing with my Typhon speed runner after adding a radio booster, new Scorched Parts centre driveshafts and general maintenance over the last few weeks/months. Booster works but no idea how much extra range it will give me and the Typhon ran great with some mild 60-70mph passes made on a very short road locally. It was good getting out with it again but it didn't last long with my pinion coming loose so that ended play early as I had no suitable allen keys with me to sort. It did show up though a gearing issue ~ last year I ran 34T pinion and a 38T spur with a PB of 127mph. I needed to gear up but couldn't as I ran out of adjustment on the mount so I fitted a 35T spur at the end of last years ROSSA events but couldn't test. Yesterday I quickly realised that it was only going to allow me to gear up from a 32T pinion which I was using by a couple of teeth before again I ran out of adjustment on the motor mount. With that in mind I have used the smallest spur gear that I have left which fits my Hot Racing spool a 31T. This gearing now (29T/31T) should hopefully put me just a head of my PB from last year with much more room to gear up.

Welcome aboard.

Love the look of that buggy @J.K . ❤️ Been missing my old Xray XB4 lately and seeing that Team Associated just makes me think of that. Can't beat a decent 1/10th scale buggy.

Welcome aboard.

Obviously "not overly expensive" is subjective but I don't think you'd go wrong with a Nikko Stirling Rifle scope, ...maybe an old classic 3-9x40. Have a look and see what you think: https://www.sportsmanguncentre.co.uk/optics-accessories/rifle-scopes/nikko-stirling-scopes/sort-by/price/sort-direction/asc/show/45

@Kpowell911 great pictures. He's a good guy @Redback so hope you both had a blast.

Easy mod made to my Losi SBR 2.0. Painted the rear light lens with Tamiya translucent red paint. Looks much better now. 😁 Before. After

Looks good. Hope it works out well for you. 😉

Nothing to worry about.

Why didn't they make it a proper "Christmas tree" light set up?! ☹️

Welcome aboard. I've not heard of that model so can't comment much on it sorry. All I'd say is try starting a thread in the "General - Electric" sub section with the cars name in the title and "help with questions please". Here: https://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/forums/forum/51-general-electric/ Lipo batteries contain "Lithium Polymer" cells hence the abbreviated name Lipo and the numbers refer to the amount of cells in the battery (in series). They're very safe when handled, charged and stored correctly but you will need to treat them with some caution as they can be a fire hazard. I've copied and pasted this for you from "RC Talk": Always use some sort of fire proof container while charging your batteries. Lipos can catch fire, and this most often happens either while charging or while running. Use a fireproof lipo container when storing a LiPo. Because yes, they can catch fire just sitting there. This is a rarer case, but it does happen sometimes. Don’t over charge your LiPo. Make sure your charger is in a Lipo mode that will stop when the cells reach 4.2v per cell. Don’t charge at a higher C-rate than your battery is rated. (we already covered this one). Don’t discharge a LiPo below 3.0v per cell – this can physically internally damage a lipo cell. If you have a LiPo that swells up like a balloon – THIS IS A DANGER SIGN! Take this battery out of service, and store it safely outside, and plan on discharging it and disposing of it as soon as practical. DO NOT try to puncture the plastic cell wrapper, that WILL cause a fire. Yes, there are lots of Youtube videos of people doing this, but it is a “don’t try this at home” kind of thing. There is plenty of information on this forum so do use the search button and have a good read at your leisure. Hopefully you'll find all the answers but if not you can always ask.

Welcome aboard.

That looks great @martin34. 👍

I'd personally start with a smaller pinion gear if you can and then gear up as you go to make sure you can get it to run straight & handle as you want first. Be a shame to wreck it first time out as I've actually seen it done before. Think you should ask to have this thread moved to the "High Speed" sub section where it belongs.

Join an airgun forum for starters. I am a member of two which are both very active places with lots of members willing to share their knowledge and help newcomers. Airgun forum (my preferred option): https://www.airgunforum.co.uk/community/index.php Airgun BBS: https://www.airgunbbs.com/ You will want to have a good think about how much you want to invest for starters but also what type of guns you'd like to use. For example spring powered guns are great as they're easy to use and predominantly a lot cheaper to buy then other power source guns like PCP (pre charged pneumatics) for example but then you will have to cock them for each shot (either by pulling the barrel down/break barrel or using a lever/side lever/underlever) which if you are a older, injured or say a sufferer of some problem like arthritis or similar it might not be ideal. They also recoil a bit which can take some getting used to. Co2 guns can offer a good compromise between a spring powered guns price point and PCP that will also offer some of the benefits of a PCP as they're almost recoiless, can offer multi shot capabilities & easy to use for long periods. You will of course have to buy Co2 cartridges for those but they're not overly expensive. You'll also need to think about where you're shooting. If it's in your back garden then you need to make sure you have an appropriate backstop so that there is never a chance of pellets ricocheting or leaving the boundary of your garden endangering others. It's fine to use pellet traps but you also need to think about what happens if you miss the target as safety is paramount with shooting. Lot's of easy things you can do/make yourself though to make sure it's safe. An example: https://www.airgunforum.co.uk/community/index.php?threads/beefing-up-back-stops.345289/ Personally if you haven't done much shooting the safest and best place to learn I think is at a club but it is not always possible if there isn't one in your area. I think you should try a rifle first rather than a pistol as imho it can be harder to shoot consistently with a pistol than a rifle and the last thing you want is to get disheartened with shooting at the start as it's supposed to be fun. With that in mind plinking is always the most enjoyable thing to do as a beginner or just for fun as it's a lot less pressured to hitting an exact spot like target shooting can be. Great fun punching holes in old tin cans or shooting at XXXX strong mints watching them explode into dust. One more thing you might find a little confusing is choosing a calibre of airgun; .177, .20, .22, .25 (.177 & .22 most common). People will argue that .177 is more accurate than .22 but then that's not necessarily true it just has a flatter trajectory and means you will need to adjust your aim/point of impact less than a heavier pellet with a larger trajectory. I've had all 4 of the main airgun calibres over the decades and tbh do not favour one over another but do favour one over another depending on what I am doing with the airgun. Providing the smaller size of .177 doesn't cause you issues with loading (some people find them too fiddly especially when trying to load into small loading holes) then that's what I'd go for. If you have hands like shovels though or just want to punch bigger holes in tin cans when plinking then I'd go .22. Hope that helps some ~ it's hard trying to condense information down and not waffle on too much. I could go on about using scopes or open sights, how to zero a gun etc etc but you can always ask on here if you need more input.

Welcome aboard Steve. Covid has hit a lot of clubs, venues, events and people hard. Hopefully we're all starting to come back to a new normal now and can get back to enjoying our hobbies, friends & family again.

You're welcome. Assuming they don't have a VTE2 chassis I wonder if you asked them if they could send you an uncut sheet for you to cut to size/mark holes and use your car to give them a template. Either way hope you get it sorted.

I would try contacting Arrmaskinz/RC Skinz as they seem to have branched out a little further into other RC makes. See here: https://www.rcskinz.com/ Other option is to find a chassis that is larger than your own on the VTE2, ...then cut it down to shape/size. Only downside is you'll have holes cut where you don't need them but an option nevertheless.

It's a really simple job to fit but just take your time and be gentle with unplugging the old aerial wire and fitting the new one. Those circuit boards aren't always the strongest. Hope all goes well.

Welcome aboard.

Good video but made me dizzy.

Welcome aboard.

Couple of weekend "tweaks". Managed to snag a new/unused carbon fibre Scorched Parts ackerman plate from Facebook so to go with that I bought a carbon fibre Scorched Parts steering top plate. Both parts as expected from Scorched Parts are very good quality and perfect fit. Little bit of weight savings over the OEM Arrma parts. OEM top plate: 14.19g Scorched Parts CF top plate: 7.51g OEM ackerman: 4.85g Scorched Parts CF ackerman: 3.78g I also modified the front plastic chassis brace just to give a little more clearance to make fitting and removing my larger driveshaft easier.

You really should be using a minimum of M4 imho especially for longer can/heavier motors but that will depend though on what the motor can is threaded for which will most likely be M4 imho but it could also be M3. Looking at that picture it looks like a "counter sunk" (CSK) allen key bolt being used with a cup washer. I buy my bolts from GWR Fasteners: https://www.gwr-fasteners.co.uk/metric-socket-countersunk-screws---din-7991-1006-c.asp