pegleg

How do you repair holes in body shells when something goes wrong then? Just askin'.....

Thank you for this interesting comparison. I have looked at both of these and thought about buying-but I have a 2 speed truck ( a 3 Racing EX) and think now that the 2 speed is an over complication that is rarely needed. Unlike the CRX my 2 speed uses nice ratios that give good crawl and cruise speeds,and now that I've modded the shift mechanism works flawlessly. My next will probably be a TRX Sport (if I can afford it) but I'm mulling over one of those SCX10 clones too TBH I have nough cars already (20+) but I'm sure I'll find room for one more! I for one thank you for taking the time and trouble to do this write up.

As I had already mentioned-the well documented chassis rail mod-costs about a fiver to fix. He also said "trail truck" not full blown crawler. True a TRX4 of SCX10 are very good,but they both need far more than £300 thrown at them-tyres,steering servos,batteries etc on top of the initial cost. Second hand-try and find one,no TRX4 for under 450 or a SCX10 for under 300-you might find the latter,but a trail truck is what he said. Just sayin.....

Dare I suggest a FTX Kanyon-way under budget,and with the simple chassis rail fix a truck that just seems to be able go anywhere. More up market a Carisma Coyote.Both these are RTR but the Coyote has the kit to build and fit out yourself option. I am sure that there will be other suggestions,but as a trail truck both these more than capable. The large size of the Kanyon lends itself well to FPV/camera carrier too. Spares cheap and available should you need something.

Why not look here, he's done it,there are several in the series,this is the first-

Does it tip over much?

Blimey

It should have come with a booklet that might (and without looking at my docs that came with the Outback I can't be sure) show the breakdown of parts so you can get it back together correctly. My gearbox was added by myself after so wouldn't be shown in my booklet, but I did strip it and check it over and grease it before I fitted it,and it wasn't difficult to take apart or assemble,but they can have a shim or spacer that might go back wrong and cause problems. If all else fails contact CML, I imagine they would be willing to help. HTH

Looking at the CML website and the photos there, the gearbox looks exactly like the HSP one I fitted to my Outback 2. This is a well tested and simple box, what is breaking and when? Mine has been running faultlessly for some time,the only weak spot being that mine doesn't have the option of a cover to prevent stones or junk getting between the spur and pinion-but the Fury has this, so....

I've just started messing about with the shocks on mine-but so far have just drained and cleaned them thoroughly,and added a lightweight silicon oil-i can't say what weight it is,just some i had from years ago that is very fluid,so probably at the thin end of the range-150 or 200 ish. I think the springs a little stiff but the ride is better now,less bouncy. I may fit new shocks at a later date but for the moment it is stock,apart from a 540/55T motor,wheel weights and the battery up front. An outfit called e supplier on ebay (in China naturally) has some good shocks, I have replaced about 5 cars now with the various versions they sell-all have been an improvement,so i will probably get mine there if I upgrade. (80mm between holes, about 90mm overall) HTH

Thanks for the replies. I have a HK gyro in one of them,the things sold for drifting I imagine.It "works" but no matter how i set the gain it can't react quickly enough to make any difference.You are probably right that a digital servo would be better-I think all of mine are of the brushed type,which I read somewhere were preferable for crawling as there was less drain on the on board BECs and not constant "hunting" of the servo. Tyres play a huge part,probably more than any other single thing,but I have no hobby shops nor club within 100 kms of where I live,so it's ebay and pot luck. If I showed the cars here I imagine that most would be rolling around laughing,but they have given me some fun meddling with them,including chassis making, suspension tests and they initially cost less than an average servo to buy. The diffs are horrible geared types that are complete cr*p really, I have a trashed one that I rebuilt to be locked so i might give it a try,though I don't doubt you are right at the end result-just thought I'd ask anyway. I'm running silver can motors as I doubt the tranny could handle more and one has an HSP 64 tooth spur which has lowered the speed somewhat-this one handles better simply because it is slower,but tbh speed isn't the goal at all-a well set up 380 powered Grasshopper can run quicker! (I know,I managed to get probably the worst handling car of all time to work on the same surface so know it can be done) Cheers

Hi all, I have a couple of old 2WD 1/10 on road cars that I have modded to run on my large gravel drive and grass-the gravel is hard packed but still loose in places and quite bumpy-not pea gravel or the like. I get quite a bit of bump steering but worse, "diff" steering when accelerating, which normally causes a spin. I suppose the best solution might be to use an ESC that I can program for softer take off but I don't want to spend any more than I have already on what are really poor handling cars to start with, and the ESC I have work fine apart from me not being able to program them. So I was wondering if I locked the diffs would this eliminate the transfer of power somewhat when one wheel spins-anyone else tried this or can off some ideas? I imagine a faster servo and a gyro might work,but one of the cars has a gyro and it doesn't seem to make any difference-probably the steering servo isn't quick enough to react. I have a couple of brushless Turnigy SCT that suffer the same though not as badly,despite the massive power increase over stock 540s and lipos instead of nimh they aren't so much of a handful as their suspension handles much of the bumps and power input so much better,but I'd be interested to hear others opinions about the diffs being locked. Thanks in advance.

Have a couple of these chassis laying around, both with bits missing. Does anyone have any parts or half built cars out there they'd be willing to sell. Most of the parts can still be had new but they are not,to be honest,worth spending much on. I would still like to get them running,just to mess about with,so would appreciate any help. I can paypal etc Thanks in advance.

At first I didn't understand your answer to me-offended? Why? Then I saw I'd left off one simple comma between "and if you don't (comma) keep asking etc! what I meant was DO keep asking on various fora until you get your answer. I hope that clears it up. In my defence I am typing on a new keyboard and am still getting the feel of it and obviously didn't hit a key hard enough.

If you can find the dimensions of the drive shafts,by which I assume you mean "dogbones" as they are commonly called,you shouldn't have any trouble finding them on ebay. The only issue might be that the seller will be in China and it will almost certainly involve a delay getting them-a month is not unusual. I had a pair missing from a Kyosho Pure Ten EP road chassis that I picked up second hand, a model atleast 25 years old,and had no problem obtaining the missing drive shafts this way. As long as you know the dimensions,and if you don't keep asking on various forums,someone else will have one stashed away. Good luck with your search.

To conclude here is the rest

Thanks for posting this, I do not own any of these cars (only an FTX Outback) but it is nice to see someone offering a solution to a potential problem.

Cost for the build so far was pretty low-some Halfords primer, Lidl gloss black spray for the wheels and a couple of tins of Humbrol for the custom mix of paint,which was airbrushed on in several light coats. I also splashed out and bought several types of LED and resistors from The Component Shop and wired in a full set of headlights,sidelights and flashing amber lights for the roof. I made my own driver figure and cast it for several more for future projects,but as these were incidentals can't really be counted as costs. I still had the original rear which looked horrible to me,as a rear bed,but did loo exactly like a trailer body...so that is what it became. I used to do a lot of 12th cale racing along time a go,and one of the bits I collected was a sheet of copper coated fibreglass,which was used many years ago to create your own pcbs,which could be etched. I have had it lying around since and it looked ideal for the trailer chassis. I had some spare WPL wheels on order so these would work too. A spare axle came from a swap to a metal upgrade axle fitted to another truck. First job was to mark out and then cut out the chassis. a second sheet of fibre glass bought recently for this type of project was there for back up if I messed up. Cutting out was done using a Dremel with cut off wheel,but there was a lot of dust and it stank too.....a mask is a must

I don't agree, just different approach. And the black chassis really looks smart, I'll have to do mine on the next round of improvements I'm making. I'm looking forward to seeing how yours looks when done.

Thanks Mike, appreciated. And thanks again for putting me back on the Cafe Nero chocolate coffee beans!

So with the body work done, with a few holes drilled for future lighting, a coat of primer and then an airbrushed top coat-several thin layers of a custom Humbrol mix .... And then starting to look more like a lorry And some weathering Still a few things to do.

The look I wanted was a US Army version of what the British Army terms "GS" - General Service, or simply a flat bed with sides. I roughed a side panel in cardboard first,to see if it looked right. After that it was out with the plastic card and liquid glue-you could use superglue I guess but I prefer a proper bond between plastics. A couple of photos to show the progress,which was pretty rapid. It is a simple shape to recreate. It still had some "editing " to do but you get the idea. Much more to my liking than that other thing,which I already had plans for.

I expect this has been done to death on various forums and Youtube, but I'd add my 2 bobs worth on here,as there doesn't appear to be that much on the modelling side of it-and what there is seems to be missing photos (thanks photobucket). Anyway,if of no interest I can talk to myself. Rather than being the more normal "look at the pile of bits I bought" type thing, this is el cheapo spend as little as possible and do it myself, so if you don't like the modelling side of it,it won't be for you. I picked this one up a few months ago on Ebay,a kit built model but un run. I added a small 10a ESC and 2.4GHZ Rx,but apart from re routing a bit of wiring didn't want to do much else RC wise- I will replace the standard motor with a 180 at a later date,and mod the chassis side for better performance. What I did know from the start was that horrible body couldn't stay-I have spent many years military modelling and what ever that rear bed was based on it wasn't anything related to the cab,which is pure M35 and a joke. I realise that most of the appearance problems were addressed by the later 6 x 6 version but that didn't solve my problem. I could see some potential though,and really wanted to get a look similar to a famous film from the 50's,called "The wages of fear", a French film that has a couple of Ex Army trucks transporting Nitro-Glycerin in flasks to the scene of an oil well fire. This thing looked nothing like the ones in the film but it served as an inspiration. "Scale" it is not. First thing was get that body off and see if something could be done with changing the wheelbase to accept a bigger rear bed. Without changing the chassis for a longer one I just about had enough room to stretch it to the max. All I did was shift the complete rear suspension and axle assembly back by the maximum and drill a new set of holes. Of course the drive shaft was too short now... Next job was make up a new drive shaft- a piece of brass tube with a "tongue" one end and a corresponding groove the other,fixed in place somehow. This is the first attempt,which worked perfectly until it fell out- I have since modded it slightly and since it has operated perfectly. Cost so far-well nothing as I had the brass tube and whatever fixings I needed. Body work next time....

I understand how you feel,wanting to keep it original. The funny thing is that I bought this " blind" on ebay, having no idea what it was,and it was sort of correctly described as 2WD. I could find no info on any 2WD Kyosho that resembled this. but had already decided to use it off road as a rally car. I kept all the original parts so can put it back to standard. It was only after I had ordered the extra parts I had a look into it and found out it was at least 30 years old, and like new. If I had initially realised it is likely that I would have kept it 100% standard. Mine weighs a lot.has an overly complex motor mount making it nearly impossible to change pinions. I can see why the lighter and simpler Tamiyas probably dominated in the very active RC racing in Japan back in the day.

I have come to detest the word "vintage".used to describe any tat that might or might not be old,but is almost certainly crap. Tamiya cars and parts are especially tainted by everyone on ebay as vintage.