t2boats

@Nickarla not sure about Modelsport doing that sort of thing, I've never been up there to find out. No doubt they'll help all they can if you took a broken model in to them. I know my local model shop does carry out repairs on all kinds of RC should a customer ask. Personally, I've never done that, always repaired them myself as I quite enjoy that side of the hobby. As for repairing an RC and sourcing parts yourself, once you become familiar with the components of the model (ie, what the name of the part is and where it goes!) and have read through the manual (which has many exploded-view diagrams detailing part numbers and what they look like) then you can always either replace the broken part like-for-like searching for the part number online (either on FTX website or the likes of Modelsport), and you'll see the parts listed. Though if you're wanting an upgrade part it's most likely just a case of scrolling along the list and you'll see an identical looking part that's made from another material, such as aluminium or carbon fibre for example. Most manufacturers these days also list the upgrade parts in the instruction manual also, very handy!

I've ran both 3B and 3C for a few years. Both been great, reliable, nice bright screen. 3C is my favourite of the two as it's lighter, nicer looking, slimmer unit, foam wheel pad too. Prefer the toggle button on the 3B though to the one which the 3C has..

@tonforty I hope it works out for you!

Welcome to the forum! Classic! I've got an old Meteor and Mini Stock. I'd say it's your receiver yes. Unplug both the leads into it, put the steering ch1 into the ch2 slot and see what happens. Or while it's on (and things are jiggling around) unplug a channel and see if the behaviour stops. If not, plug it back in and unplug the other channel. Process of elimination really. Probably more beneficial in the long run but you can go 2.4ghz very cheaply nowadays, multiple sets available from shops through eBay.

Thanks! Yeah it's worked out quite well, decent size shell, perhaps a smidge too wide on the front end, but otherwise spot on with the wheelbase. Having the Rallycross shell fitted to the chassis has helped keep out the dirt and water splashing.

I like all my rc power types aswell, even if I did fall out with Nitro in my younger days, I've bought a few over the last year as I missed the sounds n smells of Nitro. Petrol - always loved it and always will, it's my main love of rc, simple, crazy power, and just great to control!! Brushless - this was new for me around 3-4yrs ago, didn't know anything about it. I used to race 1/10 buggy electric years ago. But was miffed by the short run times of batteries so ventured into Nitro then, eventually into petrol when I had more money. Sometimes the nitro's worked really well, and some days it was a mystery haha a big learning curve in my teenage years. Eventually got the hang of it though. But the attraction for me recently was the advancements in electric (brushless and lipo)...they're rapid, and last a considerable length of time - I was sold! But as already touched on above, it's not quite the same atmosphere as using a petrol or Nitro rc at the club track. Oh and I'm one of the ones who've converted their old Hyper 7, also a Kyosho Ultima ST, and recently a T-Maxx- both brilliant!

Had a T-Maxx for a several years now, collecting dust. So, recently - and once again - Nitro engine and accompanying parts launched into orbit and set about gathering the necessary electric bits n bobs. I also changed the chassis to the long wheel base variant. At the time I was deciding on what role the T-Maxx was going to have, so was thinking along the lines of exploring with FPV. Wanting to keep a nice/steady received-picture in the FPV goggles I wasn't after too much speed. I stuck with the stock 3.3 grey gearbox and added the forward-only conversion. Changed the spur gear from 56 to 62 teeth, and coupled that to a 12 tooth pinion, all 0.8mod. It has a 2600kv 3660 motor, 60a Waterproof esc, Waterproof 15kg servo. I kept the 2-speed still active, so started off with a 2S lipo but with the low gear ratio and kv on 2S the rpm was too low for the gearbox to change up to 2nd. It was slow. But on the other hand it's slow speed control is spot on. So, I then tried a 3S lipo, and it still slowly trundled around and clambered over rough ground with ease - in 1st gear. And with the extra volts packing from the 3S the revs can of course become higher - just to the point where it changes up to 2nd gear. Super! So it's ended up the best of both worlds, I've got slow speed driveability in 1st gear (ideal for FPV) and when I want some more go it can have a little more throttle and then it shifts up for some fun. It's not mega fast, but quick enough to put a smile on my face when off-road. To top it off I fitted an old SCT shell I've had for years, I think it looks quite nifty! I'll be adding the FPV gear over the next few weeks, make a few videos.

Hi FIMS, to be honest I haven't fiddled around with the Subaru Hyper too much. An issue I need to address is the shocks yes, they're more off-road oriented than tarmac, difference is unreal. I got another 150A Toro esc to fit into it yet as I got the original one wet (hit the only puddle around where I was running it!). Yes, I do use it off-road which is why I've stuck with the 19tooth. I've got larger pinions but not tried them yet. It shifts on 4S that's for sure! More than enough for the off-road track I use it on. I've recently fitted a transparent 1:8 Hyper7 shell on to it aswell to help keep out the dirt.

Nice one QRC! You'll enjoy it. And all the best for your birthday too

All mine's got is a piece of Mecanno going across the top of the front struts!

I'm going to plum for a pair of these soon to power the receiver in Nitro cars, if they're any use... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2S-7-4V-1000mAh-20C-Li-Polymer-Battery-Pack-JST-Plug-for-RC-Hobby-Truck-Truggy/182822269394?hash=item2a910e71d2:g:tHUAAOSwY6FZ3YKy

Ha! I know where you're coming from... it's only over the last 3 to 4 years I've become interested in electric RC's again since the early 90's, always used largescale petrol. But I seemed to have gathered all the RC's I've wanted since youth (like old Tamiya & Kyosho models), and a few more along the way as I became involved having fun at a local club again with electric racing. Brushless and Lipo really have been the game changer for me taking an interest again! But yeah, I'd buy another RC, and think "that's it, no more"..... a few months later - a DPD van arrives with another box I've got too many now, but thinking about it I've bought them all for their own different reasons.

Yeah it totally changes the car. I found myself changing the tyres, raising and stiffening the suspension to help with the extra oomf its now got.... my club has two tracks, an indoor tarmac track (which becomes very dusty), or the short grass/roots offroad track. The stock tarmac tyres just couldn't cut it indoors, so went to a mild grippy set in the pics in this thread, and a more severe knobbly set for the offroad track. They're a good looking car though, people always pass comment on it.

@tolk83 enjoy your new pride n joy! They're a great RC, and surprisingly tough as old boots. I think the car definitely benefits from a higher kv motor. Not sure what the stock pinion size is, but mine's got an 11tooth in it, and it was quick on 2S with 4300kv motor and 120A esc, but needed a little more urgency with it when racing on the track, so now it's got 3S - blimey - it's worlds apart!

Nice! I've picked up a few inline switches for my LED kits, will be able to press the ch3 button on my control now and have switchable lights

@russruss123 fair play - that looks great! And would look even better when out on the trails

@Bix nifty! You fitted the LED's yet? I'll eventually get around to fitting a set on mine when I complete the shell in a few weeks. Yeah it's always worth having a cheap breaking point on an RC, I've been a firm believer in that for donkeys' years. Which, it ultimately protects the more expensive areas beyond, such as ali shock towers etc... So I'll be sticking with plastic trailing arms and front suspension arms to cater for my dodgy driving on occasions Like you say, they're cheap as chips too! Always worth keeping a few pairs in the spares box.

I run them without foams - soooo much better! Even though the stock foams were fairly soft, I thought they were a little too firm for the low weight of the Outback. I like the tyre to conform to the surface, spreads the traction a bit more. Going to run the Vaterra Bronco for a while with its foams in, see how it goes, then take them out and see what difference it makes to its tyres.

Use the stock FTX Outback tyres on various sets of 1.9" alloy bead's, proved themselves very well indeed. Also have a set of Super-Swampers on 1.9", and a few odd cheapy sets on other 1.9" bead's which I haven't tried that much to be fair. But I find I keep coming back to the soft stock FTX tyres. The Super Swampers I find are equally as good.

@Fly In My Soup cheers matey, I think they're good! Mine's going through some changes at the minute, mainly the body.. will post up a video in a few weeks. Just wondering why there's such a difference in the cogging between the two esc's.. non-waterproof would cog a little, but the new waterproof version of the same ESC is awful! The odd thing is, the exact same motor and esc are in the Viper - and that doesn't cog at all.. One thing I haven't done is check the settings on the new ESC yet, might have a play with the timing to try and reduce the cogging, it's worked in the past on other esc's I've had, not sure about this one though.

@Arron421 yep - that's certainly shifting in that video!! Makes my measly 48mph seem static (29cc with 19/55 gearing) its top end on mine is a little spluttery though, so all it needs a slight tweak on the HSN and it should crack 50mph hopefully....

@twisty yeah I think you need a YouTube account for the link, not 100% on that though, maybe another way I'm not sure, it's how I link mine up the forum though.

Sounds like you've been busy! Excellent work. You going to knock up a running video?

@twisty that's a good fit for the wheelbase