Bunny_Basher

If you do a Google search for JST leads, you'll find loads of leads pre made, so simple job of swapping out the leads by a quick soldering job.

Möbius would be a good choice, can serve as both HD camera to record the flight, but also can be used as a FPV camera - if you can accept the video lag - not so much a problem with RC planes, but not ideal when flying a small highly agile quad.

Generic term, servo connector. In photo, there is only the positive and ground wires connected, (no signal wire), so would guess this is just being used for a power lead connection. In that case, depending upon what you are connecting to you could also use a JST connector.

Stating the obvious perhaps...but, Have you checked to see if there is any scope for the brake cam to rotate? By this I mean, the car should have already been set up in the factory to optimum adjustment. I would not expect the cam/brake linkage to move much at all. The test is, can the brake disk still rotate when you have pushed the TX trigger forward?

Always go for the simple things first. Take spark plug out, rest it in the cylinder head, and test you have a spark when pulling the starter cord? If you have a spark, check (with a torch) is the piston head wet with petrol? (I.e. has it flooded)? If you have a spark and the engine is not flooded, most likely to be an airleak or problem with the carb. Report back, as we need more info before advice can be given.

Yep, the Horizon Hobby $200 reduction is as good as you get at the moment. In good 'ol UK£, that equates to £584 + shipping/duty. I paid £554 all in, so not as good a deal as I managed to get, but still better than buying in UK. If you do buy one from Horizon H, make 100% sure you click the 'prepay' taxes & duty option as this works out a lot cheaper than paying HMRC direct.

I'm running with a WT-1048, but as this was fitted this from the onset I don't have any basis for comparison. My reasoning for choosing this carb was that for a given cc engine maxing out at 24k rpm, it would need more air volume than one of equivalent cc maxing out at circa 16k - 18k rpm. Hence my use of the 1048 as it has a bigger (13.5mm dia) venturi. As to any real life benefit, I have no comparative test data, but I convinced myself that the logic was sound and thus spent around £42 on the carb After living with it for a while, I probably would not recomend it to someone looking for an easy to use carb as it does not have a primer bulb, nor choke, so requires a bit of replumbing of fuel hose/breather and can be a pain to start if the car has sat unused for a few days.

My 3rd* Super Bee remote kill switch,.... but no one home, so postie left a card, technically not received as its now back at the delivery office * yep my third!, no problems with them, just a growing collection of large scale cars

What you want to do with the quad? If after an agile FPV quad then one of the 250 class frames, either ARTF (assuming you already have a decent TX), or buy a kit and build your own. Alternatively if you're after a stable camera platform, then a Quanum Nova or Cheerson CX20 are good. Or if you're after long flight times a TBS Discovery/DJI 450 might be a good bet.

Yeh, use some super slippery ptfe paint = extra HP

I've got a complaint about FP/Nige,.... ...his webstore is too easy to use, it contains too many goodies that I want... ....and my bank balance is suffering .... Oh wait..... that's not Nige's fault I've never any problems ordering, and goods always received in good time. Some prices are top end of the market, but he's not twisting my arm to buy from FP. On the flip side the mega packs are very good value.

Thought you were holding out for the Mk1 Escort

I've got 2x of the HobbyKing ones Leo linked. As .AJ. said, I needed to change the connector, but this was easier than on a normal LiPo in that the leads can be unplugged from the battery, so no concerns about potential shorting

Ummm, no they are not. Some airbrush paints are solvent based, its nothing to do with etching, it just used to speed up the drying process. Prob is, these paints stink, are hazardous if breathed in, are a bugger to clean out of your airbrush and IMHO totally unnecessary when spraying RC car size jobs. Water based acrylic on the other hand can be used in a domestic environment, are easy to clean from airbrushes and can (if you use a hairdryer or similar) can be overcoated as quick as a solvent based acrylic paint. Most people I know who airbrush car bodies etc give the surface a slight rub over with a plastic kitchen scourer to create a mechanical key for the paint. (You can't see the swirls/scratches once painted). I really really don't recomend using an etching primer or similar when reverse painting a Lexan RC car body!

Sounds like a DOA car, you'd be better getting shot of the car, to help out a fellow rc'er I'll give you £50 for it

If you get the right mix of acrylic paint, fluid retarder, wetting agent, alcohol, water craft acrylic will give a good finish on polycarbonate/Lexan. Depending on the colour/effect you are after it may require more than one (or even 2) coats. As already suggested, to increase durability you need to back up the finish paint and here I would suggest you may want to use a solvent based paint, but a non solvent acrylic will work. No spray applied paint will be 100% resistant to abrasion or mechanical scratching. Water based acrylic is much easier to remove if you cock up a spray job or want to change in the future

Try these Solid colour acrylic Or these Metalic acrylic Or these Fluorescent acrylic The are all sprayable in an airbrush, the metalic and fluorescents are really good for RC bodies, the solids for planes etc.

(Hard hat firmly on head) ...well, you could try Hobby craft acrylics. Cheap as chips, big range of colours (even more if you are willing to mix your own). Yes, you will have to be creative in thinning down the paints to suit your airbrush/preferred pressure, but that's half the fun The hard hat is ready for all the 'experts' that will no doubt claim that you have to use 'special' paints blended especially for RC cars (and sold at 5x-10x the cost of craft paint! If you are prepared to view a few YouTube vids on mixing and using craft paint in airbrushes, purchase some alcohol thinners, wetting agent, retarder and deionised water...you can mix up batches of paint equal in quality to the overpriced stuff sold by RC Hobby shops.

Similar to the pigtail I originally fitted. But after a particularly long session (x2) tanks of fuel, the exhaust got too hot, such that the aluminium melted and deformed. Ended up resting on the nylon cage, melting that in the process. So had to replace the back half of the cage and bit the bullet and bought/fitted the Dominator. I have to say engine runs better with the Dom than it ever did with the pigtail.

If I was starting again, I'd go the roller route and fit the SCZ from scratch. However, total cost of roller, engine, pipe and electrics painting etc would be heading upwards of £1500, so not in your budget. So, go for the original within budget and almost ready to run, so you can enjoy the car until the upgrade bug affects you, which it eventually will

Here's a pic with the Dom fitted to my ST. Really the look with the pipe is not so bad, and on a MT with the bigger wheels, you really won't notice the pipe much.

I had the same setup on my 5ive, until I swapped the 26cc stock motor + Samba for the SCZ + BZM micro pipe. If you like the instant response you get from the 26, you'll love the SCZ Okay I appreciate that you can adjust the gearing on the G32's, but watching cars fitted with them take their time to spin up to speed I decided that for my large scale RC usage I wanted revvy, instant response. ...oh and the £60 saving can be used towards buying a new BZM pipe tuned specifically for this type of engine (the SCZ being practically a copy of the BZM reed motor )

You pays ya money.... £340 for the mx = circa 7hp £280 for the SCZ = circa 9hp The SCZ was designed from the outset to spin up to 24k revs and produce max power bearings are sized accordingly. Whereas the MX has been tuned to extract more power from a standard engine. My money is on the SCZ outlasting the MX, but if not, parts are cheap

You can get a Baja pigtail to fit, but I end up melting the aluminium as the exhaust got so hot... Cheap, nasty aluminium So, I ended up getting a DDM Dominator side pipe. Like you, I hated the idea of a side pipe, but now it's fitted I have grown used to it. Required a little trimming of the shell to clear the pipe, but nothing major. The biggest PITA was turning the fuel tank through 180deg. I'd recommend that you do it now, before the chassis fixings get too comfortable... ...and avoid having to drill out a number of fixings like I ended up having to do The Dominator pipe does liven up the engine, and is competitively priced.

I used plasterers joint reinforcement mesh (self adhesive) cheap from your local Wicks or similar). Once mesh all cut and fitted, used 1 tube of silicone joint sealer spread over the lot I'll get a piccy uploaded when I get home. Some say the silicone does not stick as well as Shoe Goo...I say, your bond is only as good as the paint is adhering to the polycarbonate = silicone is plenty good enough....and cheap enough, I used less than half a tube to do the entire body shell, cost a fiver