Bunny_Basher

Losi Mini WRC? Incl full cage and body mounts/bumpers. Used once, no damage, unmarked - car converted to Buggy for racing.

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Lol, I can almost see the ad's in eBay now... ..."almost new, barely used, ran great until I hit a kerb/tree/brick wall but these are indestructable, engine sounded great (a bit hard to start... Well I can't get it to start), but a great car. A bargain, only £950 and I'll throw in some free fuel..." People buying a 5ive from Maplin are not going to be the kind of seller I would buy a 2nd hand large-scale from

I've just returned from a 7-day business trip to China, and had 34kg of unused baggage allowance.... ...with a bit of forethought I could have brought 3 or 4 SCZ engines back to the UK in my suitcase ...on second thought, doing internal flights and staying in 4x different hotels during the week I was there...@#&* that to lugging a heavy suitcase around, was deffo not on the cards

Before swapping out the OEM wheels to a set of lightweight ones... consider how and where you will be driving your 5ive. If planning on any kind of bashing I'd stick with the OEM's unless you like replacing wheels on a regular basis. If you are converting your 5ive T to a 'lightweight' or buggy and running on a fairly level track then crack on - that's what those glue on wheels are designed for

If you read the written review of the KV.5, by the guy who ran it at the US track (a couple of videos doing the rounds), you'll read that during an afternoon racing (not hard bashing) it chewed up 2x sets of rear bearings. The first set they put down to probable hard use by other reviewers, but the replacement second set only lasted a few circuits.... Seems that it was a preproduction model and the production versions will ship with 'some shims and spacers'... Me thinks that Jason may have done you guys a favour, better to wait until the car has been on release for a while and the kinks ironed out before dropping £1.5k on an untried and tested model ? That said, the KV.5 appeals to me more than the DH.

If compressor is located on the floor, you could easily be 4' of a 6' hose just to get to the level of your workbench, giving you 2' of free hose to work with (which in my opinion is not enough). Hoses (especially small dia braided ones) are cheap enough, so buy one slightly longer than you think you need - trust me, its better to be too long vs too short

The issue with BSP sizing is that it's not the same as sizing a bolt... BSP (British Standard Pipe) refers to the bore diameter of the pipe/hose, not a measure of the thread. So, a male 1/8" BSP connector will measure approx 3/8" or 9mm OD, with a 1/4" BSP will measuring approx 1/2" or 12mm. Have fun

You won't be happy with the water trap on the bottom feed of the airbrush...it will get in the way and make it unwieldy. You only need one at the compressor end. The 'free' hose that comes with the airbrush you linked to is rather short, I use 3m long ones and I have the compressor adjacent to where I spray. 6' is almost certainly going to be too short for you. eBay is your friend when it comes to adaptors, most (but not all) airbrushes will have 1/8" BSP male, most (but not all) braided airlines will have 1/8" BSP female either end. I don't know what the threaded connector is on this particular compressor, it could be 1/4" BSP, 3/8" BSP, or (very unlikely on a small compressor such as this) 1/2" BSP. So you will most likely need a male/female adaptor of the right size. A veritable minefield

Could be down to the driver, but seemed to me that both the 5ive T's and the non-Losi Buggy did not appear to be losing any time against the new Losi 5ive B.

Can it be used for airbrushing = yes, would I want to = No. Purely because I airbrush inside the house, so noise is a huge factor for me. (I only use water based paints so no health issues)...I'll bet this is a noisy compressor, certainly one that you would soon be fed up with if running just beside where you are spraying! If you plan on using the compressor in the garage/man cave or outdoors, then noise is probably less of an issue for you (if you have a long enough hose). It has a decent size receiver/tank so if painting using an airbrush the motor won't actually be running that much as the air volume used by airbrushes is relatively small. The image does not show a water trap, so you'd need to purchase one, but then again I can confidently say that you would also need to buy a 1/8" reducer, plus quick release hose attachment etc, so buying a water trap is just another item needed. I'm guessing that there is no hose with this compressor (and if there is it will be too big for an airbrush), so you'd need to factor in a nice braided 1/4" hose of suitable length. To be honest the compressor shown is probably more better suited for a LVLP spot repair spray gun, which if you are only spraying shells in single colours and don't need the finesse of an airbrush, then the compressor is probably better for you than a dedicated airbrush compressor.

Not in Cambridge, but a fair number of rc car (mostly large scale) owners meet/race/bash at our track near Wimblington (between March/Chatteris on the A141). There is a technical track and approx 1/2 acre bashing area. As I say, most members/guests tend to run large scale ic cars so depending upon the size of your wallet you may want to avoid racing with the big un's (a fully loaded 5ive would probably flatten a Slash if there was an accidental collision ) but there is a fair bit of time when the track is clear, or can run around the bash area anytime. Do a search for 'Tri County Bashers' on YouTube or have a look at http://www.tricountybashers.com/

Plastic mesh brace... Mmm...calling out for some shiney aluminium Then again this is probably the entry level version. No doubt like the 1/8th cars, they will release a 'TLR Factory Competition' spec version with trick alloy parts. At, oh let's guess somewhere North of $2k/£1.5k.

Yep, I was wrong this is 578mm wheelbase verses the WRC 615mm. However it barely seems worth it, my WRC conversion is just under 850mm o/a length...this Buggy is 845mm. The extra 5mm is solely down to how I mounted the rear wing. To comply with the racing rules is it wheelbase measurement or o/a length that is the criteria? At 457mm it's a touch wider than the WRC Buggy conversion (using Mini wheels) 448mm. But if using hub extenders the conversion would be wider.

I'm guessing that the chassis is same length as a standard 5ive (T or WRC), its the overall length of the car that is shorter i.e. without the huge cage/front rear bumper overhang... I love the marketing blurb...eg ...specially designed for buggy air filter (that looks very much like the one that was fitted to the WRC

Yes, don't sell the x2... The way I read it, the Losi Buggy is only being offered as a kit, (barely a roller). I hate the cab foward design, looks fugly to me Having just about finished my WRC Mini to Buggy conversion, I don't see myself getting one of these anytime soon.

Shell has a few cracks and bits of Lexan missing around the mount points. Once the paint has fully cured I will be reinforcing and taping. It's not actually that bad if I compare it to my 5ive T bashing shell on the other car It never was going to be as new, but if it lasts a season I'll be happy.

The pre-owned shell after painting. Not my best, but the shell was not pristine, so I was not as careful as I could have been.

Took 3+ sessions to strip the old paint, not quite as new...

Well, Grafil have apologised for not shipping the G-magma shell (but still not confirmed a shipping date)... ...so, I purchased a 2nd hand one to tide me over until Grafil get their act together.

5ive every time. More durable out of the box, parts that will fail are competitively priced and there is a ready supply of cheap OE 'take offs' in ebay/5ive forums where others have started down the the ooh shiney path... Even the larger stock engine is now perfectly acceptable for bashing...so a stock car can be run for a few months before having to upgrade.

Ended up getting these from Screwfix Wiha Torx ball end

I've had a decent 1/4" socket set for years, contains all the smaller size sockets and a useful suite of hex/Torx fittings. However after a failure, its maybe the time to get a proper set of Torx wrenches/T- bars... Thing is, I very very rarely have to work with Torx (and generally end up replacing them with hex heads if I do come across them), so never felt the need to buy a 'proper' set until now. ...what do you guys use?

This was deffo a doh moment.

Now you mention it I vaguely remember reading something along those lines sometime in the past ....