neil.b

I have been told they are a bit tight. I'll give that a try. :-D

I think I am going to run my Orion combo and an Xpert servo from my Mugen. Though I may run a different combo for now as then I can keep my Mugen in a usable state. I will try and do a build thread if I get time.

If it has a primer on the fuel tank then its from a savage 21. I would say its likely a 21 looking at the (extremely small) pictures.

I mostly run 10 10 5 in my Mugen Eco. This seems to work well on dry astro and dirt.

Uk parts support is very good for Mugen. I have been racing the MBX7R Eco since last summer, week in week out, and while I have had some MAJOR crashes I have only needed to replace 1 front lower arm. :-) I have never had any problems getting spare/option parts and neither has anyone else I know who runs a Mugen. RPRC have most parts in stock or are able to get them within a day or 2. Herts model shop (among others) also sell/support Mugen in the UK. Edit: PS, they are teh sexeh.

PS. That's where mine was from.

PS. That's where mine was from.

Speak to the chaps at RacepaceRC if you want a Mugen in the UK. It says on the website that they are out of stock but they can be ordered in a couple of days.

I had a rBoner and it was pretty good. I ended up selling it as it was surplus to my needs. It was a nice quality model but as you say, I suspect parts will become an issue in the near future.

What is your budget?

I vote for the Mugen but I am totally biased. Seriously though I have owned quite a few different buggy's in the last couple of years, and the best of them all so far all is my MBX7R Eco. Its very quick and has proven to be extremely reliable/durable.

A few small mods to my 13 year old Savage 25.

Remember, red to red black to black etc.....

I am Mostly just using stuff I already have in my spares box, so there will no doubt be some trial and error involved. The diff I am using is made up from a mixture of durango dex8 and arrma kraton center diff parts. I think its a 50t steel spur and a 16 pinion. I will be running a 1900kv turnigy motor and 4s for a start just while I make sure everything is ok. This is quite an old(13 years old) nitro savage I am converting. It has had a lot of upgrades over the years but its not a brand new model so I need to build the power up slowly.

This plus some other Alza goodies from DannyP.

Nice, I am waiting for my Alza CD setup, missed the postie today so I'll hopefully get it later on or tomorrow.

Things.

The main thing with getting your car wet aside form the obvious things like electrics are all your bearings. If your not careful they will rust up and seize solid. Make sure you dry and re lube them when your car gets wet and you will be fine.

They are 4mm. I have owned a few of these motors and they are pretty good. Be prepared to re solder the tubes back on though as they do have a tendency to get warm and fall off. :-/

Joining them up in series is fine. Its how I have always run my 1/8 E buggy's.

Are you sure its not just the out drive that's moving in the diff casing and not the actual diff casing itself?

Not today, but a couple of days ago I rebuilt/cleaned my Mugen.

Some pictures of my Mugen MBX7R Eco.

I cut a hole in the body on mine where it touched the ESC.