Stilli

I have several small irons all Antex for light work. For the heavier stuff I have a 100w Weller Gun and I also use a gas torch (small one, runs off lighter fuel).

I am waiting for someone to respond because I would like to know this too.

I would assume that they were pre-mounted as it says on the pack. The instructions are probably there to show how to fix should they become detached or you want to change tyres. Why not open the pack and look-see, if it turns out they are not pre-mounted you can still return them as the labelling description was incorrect.

Cool, like it. Thank you.

MB Models stock a comprehensive range of Kyosho spares, bought my ZX6 kit from them and have bought spares too. Excellent service with next day delivery almost every time.

If you are near a local club, there maybe someone there that has one and will test your motor for you.

You could try one of these but it will probably cost you more than a new motor: http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/198437-gforce-motor-analyser/?hl=%2Bmotor+%2Btester

Thanks for posting

Thanks for posting.

1.5, 2.0, 2.5 will cover most with the occasional 3.0mm and a 5.5mm hex driver is quite handy too.

Just wondered if they do more powerful chargers in the same series ie with stacking power supply. Problem is I need 225w on occasions but I do like the compactness of this charger. Guess I'll have to stick with what I've got for the time being but it's such a mess with all the cables and the power supply is very bulky.

Does it come in different power outputs or is this the only model?

That's a neat charger Deafty, most setups are a right mess with non-stacking power supplies and cables all over the place. Are you happy with the charger or looking to change sometime?

Take the pinion to an engineering workshop and get them to drill it out.

We get ripped off in this country for prices on anything that originates from foreign countries and it has been that way for as long as I can remember. VAT, customs and collection charges are partly to blame but taking that into account doesn't add up to the huge price difference, it would be interesting to see if it works the other way around and how much foreign countries pay for our manufactured products (what's left of them that is). I'll bet they get them cheaper than we do too. I find that it's useful to identify UK model shops that stock parts for a particular model and use them based on their customer service. MB Models for example offer great stock for my Kyosho and general RC Car stuff and their service is second to none being friendly, helpful and very fast. Pricing is reasonable in comparison to other UK suppliers too. I have also found Wheelspin to be very good and one or two others on occasions but some of the other UK shops seem to take forever to get orders out and as others have commented above I can get my order from Asia Tees quicker sometimes. The trouble is that we in the UK tend to suffer these high prices and poor service, not doing anything about it, maybe a petition to the Government (even if it is a joke one at the moment) might stand some chance of improving our international trading standards which don't even work within the EU as we pay more for the same goods than most of the other members. The sooner we get out of the EU the better for fair trading for us.

Maybe you was trying too hard ... lol

So this is what I look forward too? Good job I ordered some spare parts .... lol. Better luck next time Charles.

Looks cool, cool looks makes you feel good, feel good makes you go faster.

As Hyper-Boy says, check out the local tracks where you are likely to be racing and see what classes they cater for. Some may not even cater for Nitro so check first and choose a car to suit.

What Atom said.

Try SMC for your lipo's, best batteries out there IMO. Fast service too if they are in stock, contact them for shipping to the UK all done via Paypal invoice http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?route=product/category&path=67_78

Threadlock, that's a good idea.

If you have a painted shell and need to mark hole positions, what I do is to put a generous amount of felt tip pen ink on the stud then place the bodyshell onto it which will leave a mark inside the shell. Do them one at a time as the ink dries quickly then ream the holes from the inside. I use one of these for cutting the holes http://www.apexmodels.com/gbu0-prodshow/BCA-FAST98.html

Is your problem with actually cutting the holes or marking where the holes should be?

You may find these helpful, I did: http://www.rcknowhow.co.uk/blog/2011/06/28/servo-basics-what-is-end-point-adjustment-on-a-servo/ http://www.mini-z-guide.com/radio_endpoints.htm