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Ben Willis

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  • RC Cars
    HPI Savage, Traxxas Slayer Pro, Micro RS4 Drift

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  1. Have you changed any of the Servo's in your savage, need a recommendation for the throttle brake one, as I have the stainless disc conversion which used to be awesome but now barely stops the thing.

    1. froggy8

      froggy8

      hi mate which servo are you using now? if it helps, i like the savox 1258 for the throttle/brakes

    2. RCbutcher

      RCbutcher

      Tons of choice cheap option is alturn something with 10kg torque atleast. Some people like speed too but it's not that important to me for brakes.  0.18s  will do me. 

       

      Power hd servos are a top choice for savages i think. 

       

      Waterproof is a top thing for me just incase the grass is wet still. You get some great sprays from the wheels after its been raining lol. 

       

      Saying that I've been caught out in a thunder storm once the rain was so heavy it hurt my ears. My radio had puddles the car was swimming. All old tech and it worked fine. But I would like to chance it with quality elecs lol. 

    3. RCbutcher

      RCbutcher

      Wouldn't like the chance it lol. 

  2. Installed my engine and pipe in my savage, tightened and thread locked everything ready for break in :b slightly wary of the cable tie holding the pipe up, but I don't have a proper pipe holder... I'll just have to not go over big jumps till I've got one :b
  3. Twas yesterday, but an LRP .32 and a Jammin JP-1 to drop into my savage :b
  4. Ahh, okay, sorry, I just got the impression you were gonna slam it and do nothing else, my apologies :b
  5. Ahh, okay, sorry, I just got the impression you were gonna slam it and do nothing else, my apologies :b
  6. In order to get the faster airflow under the car to work properly you will need more airflow under the car. Running that low you won't get enough airflow underneath the car... If you want to run the car really low you will need a splitter, a very smooth, flat underbody, you will need to run some rake and most likely some kind of diffuser at the rear to pump enough air under the car and get the effect of the low pressure area underneath
  7. Just a word of warning on the aero/ride height. If you're running the car that low to the ground you will generate more lift than downforce, especially with an off the shelf body. It may sound counter intuitive, but you want airflow under the car... As the air goes over the top of the body it attempts to push the same amount of air mass through a smaller space since there is an obstacle in the way, therefore to maintain the same mass flow the velocity of the air close to the car (in what's known as the boundary layer) will increase significantly. The absolute pressure of the air is a function of velocity whereby as velocity increases the pressure decreases, thus a significant amount of lift will be produced over the top of the car. Running a higher ride height will allow air to pass under the car, splitting the air and creating a low pressure area under the car (producing more downforce) by the same theory as I just explained, but it also reduces the amount of air being sped up over the top the car since it is being split. Now, I'm not saying jack it up meters into the air, but running it as low as in those pictures will likely make it very unstable, particularly at high speed... just a word of warning
  8. A quick update on this, been a while since i posted originally and to be honest not much has happened. Nearly got the chassis plates CADed up to be sent off for a quote, just waiting on some final dimensions from Xray for the front wheel hubs. I've sent over a part file to my friend with a 3d printer to give it a go at printing a test piece for the body to see if my calculations are actually any good and just to check there are no huge mistakes... hopefully it all goes well :') Been a bit slow recently since I've had plenty of uni work to be doing but I should be able to make some good progress over the easter break, hopefully get the designs finalised and start ordering some materials :b
  9. Gearing is the biggest issue I'm encountering so far. Gearing it to hit 130 is really easy, but as you say it is unlikely to get off the line particularly quickly... Would anybody be able to tell me how long the run up to the gates is at the UK ROSSA event?? At the moment I'm looking at modifying the transmission from an Xray RX8 but I can't do this without accurate engine dimensions which are proving difficult to come by, as Novarossi haven't replied to any of my emails...
  10. So, I've been into this hobby for just under two years now, and as an engineering student I've decided that RTR's aren't enough. So I have embarked upon a project to design and build a speed car to enter the ROSSA event, probably in 2017 as this year would be very tight on time. Only thing is, it's going to be a bit different from the majority of speed cars... It's gonna be nitro :b Electric simply doesn't interest me, and over two years I feel I've gained enough knowledge of nitro to make this work. My initial target is to break the 200kph barrier but I will be extremely happy with anything above 120mph first time around. This project started in my head around a month ago and I've done a bit of research since and priced everything up and today I gave it the green light :b The power plant of choice will be the Novarossi Mito 7 long stroke .21 on road engine, a large part of the choice was the fact that its peak power comes at pretty much the highest rpm's of anything I have found. Another slight quirk of this project is that I have designed it to use a chain drive transmission due to the packaging constraints of fitting a nitro engine and pipe into small space. The chassis will be custom made from carbon, with twin vertical plates braced with aluminium square bars and a flat carbon under tray. Boots will be of the GRP 2016 velocity GT variety in the rear and likely a single 1/10 TC foam up front, depending on how suited to high speed they are. I've managed to enlist the help of a friend with access to a 3D printer to produce the body and all the aluminium parts including the solid rear axle will be machined by myself :b The past few days I've been drawing up some designs ready to go into CAD to make sure everything fits and will work successfully. I'll keep this thread updated as and when bits arrive and interesting developments occur as a build diary of sorts, and I may attend the ROSSA event in August to get a feel for how it all goes down and get a good look at the running surface. Ben P.S. If anyone knows where I could get the engine from that isn't A-Main and is in Europe that would be wonderful, because the import tax if customs get hold of it won't be enjoyable in the least :b
  11. Broke a dog bone pin on my micro, will have to be rwd till after Christmas
  12. I have the full version and I play it pretty much every day, even though I don't actually race. I've had it a few months and even just bashing noticed an increase in my driving ability :b I'd definitely say it's worth the money :b
  13. I recently moved in to Loughborough university and being a student with no car, transport is pretty limited... I'm going home this weekend to grab some of my RC stuff, but before I do I was looking to see if there was anyone in the Loughborough area who would be up for giving me a lift to the NDOR track some weekends if someone was going down so I can run there. I'm happy to chip in for petrol if you wish
  14. Not sure whether it's you or the tapatalk app, but since the upgrade pictures appear as a line of code rather than and embedded image :b but thanks for all the hard work, really liking the look of the web version Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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