TommyC

So I got some more stickers on today. I’ve done everything as per the instructions but substituted silver for purple. The bonnet is sprayed black as a background for the carbon stickers. But it doesn’t tell you to blackout anywhere else the carbon stickers are. If I were to do it again I think I’d do that, as well as black out the headlights. the windshield visor was matched to the ps63 so I sprayed it with ps5. Will wait to see how that holds up! But it does a good job of hiding my mistakes and gives me a buffer for when I clean the windows.

The battery was fully charged and I’ve just drained it bashing the quantum around so I think all is good.

It’s just such a time consuming process that you can mess up in a split second. I’m starting on the stickers already while I wait for the paint remover. I reckon it’s going to take a few evenings. Why can’t they be pre cut with a clear top layer that you pull away once stuck?!

It was all going so well until I went to smoke out the windows. Laid it on too thick and it started to run and pool inside the shell. Went to wipe the excess away, as I had done once already, and it smudged the purple. So I’ve then had to touch that up with the window masks removed and ended up in a right mess! I’ve ordered some Carson paint killer to clean up the windows. Not sure whether to leave clear, try again with the smoke paint or tint the windows with vinyl? Hopefully the window surround stickers will cover most of the smudged purple to the top left of the windscreen. Think I’m just going to have to live with what’s left visible. I really did love the idea of spraying my own shells but in reality it’s a ball ache!

So this just happened. I grab it almost as soon as it hit the water. Pulled the hard case apart and only 2 or 3 droplets got inside. Luckily there wasn’t a lot of water in the bowl and I think don’t think the plugs went in as they’re bone dry. question is, is it safe to use? Surely I’d have known about it if it shorted?

That’s promising as you have the 100A version of my esc. Are your settings in the same order as the chart above?

I’ve seen a video on YouTube of someone using a hobbywing box on a maverick but it was a different esc and box to what I’m considering. I’ve emailed modelsport to see if they know. The reason this came to mind is a problem I had with the maverick flx10-3s80 esc. I changed a few settings and then the car would go faster in reverse than forward? Checked polarity and ch2 was the correct way. Also turned up reverse speed on esc and it just went faster backwards. Noticed that turning ch2 output up and down affected reverse speed but not forwards? Like forward was just stuck on low speed. Put rx in my tamiya, no problem with radio gear. Did a factory reset on esc and all back to normal. Then I changed just the initial brake force from 40% down to drag brake and it did the same thing? The manual I found online shows drag brake as factory setting, not 40% as my esc is set to. Drag brake, max brake, punch and neutral range are also factory set different to what the manual says. So maybe I have a different software version on my esc? Maybe my settings are in a different order to the manual and I’m changing the wrong things? Even then I’m not sure what setting would affect max speed going forward but leave reverse unaffected? I’ve marked below how my esc is factory set

I’m looking at getting a different esc for another car and it seems hobbywing have a good selection of esc’s at reasonable prices. some of the maverick esc’s just look like rebranded hobbywings. I’m tempted just to try it…

So as I understand it some programming cards will work with other brand esc’s. Is there anyway of checking this before buying? I’m particularly interested to know if a hobbywing card will work on HPI/maverick esc’s? Looking at them they seem identical.

I do intend to lean the shocks over but just thought I’d try it with them vertical for comparison as that’s how they are on the stock chassis. Still not sure it’s going to bring it all down as low as it was? I’m pretty sure I’ve overfilled some of the shocks as they felt different so I’ll pull them apart again first and see what’s what. haven’t actually driven it much since I’ve modded it as been busy with other cars. Hopefully I’ll see an improvement with the new chassis.

Yeah Racing Tornado Twistex 30mm Shrouded Cooling Fan. Bought this week but doesn’t suit my motor. Opened but brand new. £12 posted to uk mainland.

Can someone explain how this has a lower centre of gravity? First two pics are with the new chassis

Loads of stuff!

What’s the logic behind this then?

Do you not all end up chewing up the plastic parts using power tools? I’ve got the fasttrax driver set. All fits well, but the driver can’t handle a lot of torque without slipping.

Gone ahead and ordered the dumbo with a x4fmg with an extra x6fg. £65 on banggood.

Willing to split. Just ask if you’re interested in anything particular.

I need a c3 axle or a pair of c6’s if anyone can help? built my first ever tamiya kit. Got it running today and didn’t realise how little grip they have. Took it outside, slid straight into the shed and bent an axle. Not a great start!

Yeah I thought your photo showed them like that. But in mine those balls on the left are too small for the top. I measured the balls and the openings with a gauge. My picture shows the smaller ones on the left and the bottom of the shocks are smaller than the tops. So that’s the way round I’m trying to fit them. would be nice if they just gave you 8 of each ball. edit: got it now. Although the bottoms are slightly smaller, there’s more give because they’re plastic. So yeah, one with lip both sides goes at top.

The ones I’ve put in the bottom take very little force. If I try those ones in the top they fall out they’re so loose. just ordering one of those lcg chassis’ now along with some extended brass hubs and a light kit. Only want to bump an order up as I want one of their low profile servo’s for my tamiya. any excuse😂

Does the 4ch rx take the same connectors as the others? Looks like the connectors on my maverick atom which had ever so slightly different spacing on the pins than the usual black connectors.

The one on the left is slightly smaller and I’ve put this in the bottom of the shocks, as they’re slightly smaller than the tops, with o-rings. These just pushed in. Can’t get the other bits in the top though. Got them in the freezer at the moment to see if that helps! on another note, anyone used these? https://www.injora.com/products/injora-lcg-carbon-fiber-chassis-kit-frame-girder-for-1-18-trx4m does all the stock stuff fit on there nice?

I’ve got 6 of each of these

Does this differ in any way to the dumboRC? https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/absima-10-channel-radio-cr10p-24ghz-incl-receiver-1360639 looks exactly the same to me

I’ve got some INJORA shocks but not sure what ball joints go where and what the o rings are for. Could someone please post a picture so I can see what’s what?