Relativenewbyseb

Ideally you want to set it right, no point wearing out a part for the sake of not knowing how It'll be one of the easiest things to do anyway

T bone is the name to go for with bumpers as they have lifetime warranty too Another option is rpm Also some people may know or have preference for a specific model so what truggy is it looking to go on? ?

Yep sounds very ropey

Hi guys I have the firestorm and a friend has seen it and now seems set on the blitz, what gearing is being run for 2s compared to 3s? Same as the fs or different?

hi is this still available? how used is it,like roughly how many charges?

There are two e firestorms in the for sale section a reasonable way back but one has tons of upgrades and spare parts with it.... I'll see if I can find it again Edit I sent him a pm and he responded that they were available recently but not are if they still are,could be worth it http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/index.php?/topic/213008-3x-ARTR-RC-Cars-(2x-Firestorms,-Schumacher-Mi2)-[PRICE-DROPPED]

Green looks mean [emoji108] [emoji2]

No harm in asking would you do it for 15?, I'm not entirely sure as I'm at uni but could be a good procrastination toy in halls so I'm considering aha?

Try and find a full size 540 motor aswell not a finned one, I successfully ran a quicrun 3656 on an older but same etronix esc on 3s for months in a firestorm until it was dipped

Search for bullet body posts on modelsport that should do the trick.... Ps are those screws beginning to rust or just a different colour originally?

How long is the grass in the field, even an 8th scale buggy can struggle in anything too long

Got some aluminium steering knuckles/front hubs for the e firestorm from them and they've been spot on

It's one of those things I guess where you do it in a ventilated area and what works best, I just couldn't get it working with gloves and brush on as everything would stick to everything apart from the shell! so I just spread it on with my hands without gloves in the end for my fs shell... lived to tell the tale

I don't have 1/8 but from looking at your wants and needs I'd probably suggest a losi 8ight of some sort as they are well known to be durable and sturdy whilst also being better on the track than a hyper 7 which is probably the best for cost/durability for the amount of fun you can have Have you seen what they run at the track as to whether it's truggy or buggy, truggy will help with the bashing side of things also Battery wise there is hobbywing as plenty will suggest, chargers can also be had from there or other places and I'm are others will be along with their favourites/best buys Radio gear for out and out bashing flysky gt3b/c are good as they have lots of features and dont break the bank, however depends on how seriously you'll get into racing as proper racers say they have lag compared to the more expensive and quality stuff

An exhaust deflector is to work as the name suggests, deflecting ? so it deflects the oily exhaust fumes away from the rear wheel/shell and rest of the car to help maintenance

Hmm that's interesting, all this talk of manufacturers like traxxas having little marketing ploys, what's going on with this new condor which seems to have decided to have its problems sorted??! Oh yeah another thing I changed all the hinge pins to some long hinge pin screw type things that tamiya uses on its tl01 and I'm presuming many others, apart from the lower ones where the e clips were necessary as they hold a metal bar in place to keep the two arms together The original hinge pins snapped regularly for me

I had one of these a while ago, unfortunately the infinity engined version My things to look out for would be as people have said the pipe, the infinity engines were impossible to tune with air leaks however so was to blame when I melted the standard one Only parts I have left from mine are 2 steel spider gears and the alloy pipe (was available for about 10 quid off eBay) The other thing to be aware of are the diff internals, when mine did run it was good but ended up becoming 2 wheel drive regularly due to the diff being very weak, I ended up spending loads turning them all steel! In the end I sold all mine in parts as max as a car as a whole people get about 30-40 quid on ebay, whereas I got 25 for each diff and other small parts sold for 5 or 10 quid each

Hobbywing kit is not always great at recognising odd cell amounts especially 5s, so it could be sensing it as a flat 6s and therefore lvc kicking in Try and change the cell count manually instead of auto detect to see if that works [emoji106]

Do a quick forum search and it'll show the support for the km bajas just as much as hpi, basically as a first petrol a km is much cheaper and their quality is improving all the time You'll get niggles with any new rc so don't worry about any more or less

Ps I ordered them through the website but I don't know if it makes a difference

Yeah so you can choose to either order front and rear together and be over that but pay one postage, or play it safe and do separate orders

Asiatees do the aluminium hubs for about 8 quid each set, I've got them and postage is maximum about 5 quid, never got caught by customs for my three orders for them

Sounds good, lipo is the way to go now but if you're using an old charger then stick to the nimh A lot of different options for adjustable turnbuckles should fit, ideally measure them and get a ball park figure even though they aren't quite right then search for some 1/10th ones the same size on ebay Alloy suspension setup can look bling sometimes but also adds weight and will be more susceptible to cracking the tl01 chassis where the arms are connected so make sure you don't crash And most of all, it's your own money so it's all your decision what you do to it in the end haha I'm sure lots of people will be along soon to give you a helping hand with any more queries

That would be a wheel nut They are a standard fit for almost all 1/10 th models so are easy to find online for cheap in bulk in case you lose any more A little bit of blue threadlock on them left to cure for 24hr helps them stay on much better

Don't buy from nitrotek as aside from the customer service which is rubbish, the actual models are all fairly terrible too Ftx carnage while yes its a monster/truggy it's 1/10 so won't be as great ground clearance it's probably the same as a 1/8 buggy maybe a fraction more Ftx themselves are renowned for being a beginners brand yes but not always in a good way, they fit the bill for a lot of people but it will be nowhere even close to a proper 1/8 especially the hyper in terms of strength and bashability