Vr5fx

Hyper MT... Mine has taken a pasting.

Do the brakes release when the throttle is opened slightly (You can test this with the engine off)... So the idea is that when the revs increase as you squeeze the trigger the brakes release as the clutch starts to bite. If it seems okay, it'll just act like a drag brake, so when you let off the throttle it brakes slightly. If it bothers you, you'll need to udjust the brake linkage. So follow the brake linkage to the otherside of the servo, undo the grub screw and move the collar over a few mm so the brakes release, then retighten and check it over again. You might need to adjust the thumb screw at the back end after, as the brake force would be affected. During break in, the engine will probably be running rich, so it will have low revs and a lot of fuel mixture. Does it smoke a lot from the exhaust? While it's idling, you can either adjust the idle screw, or the low end needle (if there is lots of smoke) The idle screw is the big silver one, and the low end is marked with a small L above the screw. You can adjust while running by very small increments. Think of a clock, you want to turn by an hour at a time. Both low end and high end screws are; clockwise to wind in = Less fuel (Leaning the mixture) Revs will be higher Counter clockwise to wind out = more fuel (richening the mixture) If you haven't already, think about getting a killswitch, it's a must have with any 1/5th scale. Where are you located anyway?

Nothing wrong with Rovan gear after a few hopups, just like anything else. You only needed to adjust the thumb screw on the back end to adjust brake force, looks like there is plenty of thread to adjust. Then once set, you adjust the end points on the controller to stop the servo throwing too far. Or, thumb screw off and put a longer piece of fuel tube in. Get the manual out, and reset the linkages to what they recommend, meaurements should be in there. Otherwise, hit up YouTube, there are plenty of videos showing how to set the throttle linkage Also, it looks like you are missing a grub screw where the brake lever sits, unless it's been replaced since you've taken the picture. ?

Use a multimeter, check main leads and each cell through the balance plug. Then you'll know where the break is.

JST or 2 pin molex, come up under both searches.

I can't speak for everyone, but I found it to be decent, never had issues with mine (Purchased in July 18). Always ran outerwears on it to keep it clean, and if anything does go wrong, you can get the parts... I'd buy another if this one broke.

I've never not had a flywheel that doesn't fit.... Thinking of it though, I did buy and fit the Rovan easy start kit to my G290 if that helps. https://www.rcmodelz.co.uk/index.php/rovan-easy-starter-kit-1643.html It also fits the G320 without issues.

Maybe I should start again..... This is how I currently have it setup. After a tank the cable ties will have melted off, I can't use a jubilee clip, as to get it tight enough on the one end of the join it cuts into the tube and then it's pointless. I could use metal cable ties, but again, I'll be constantly replacing them and running into the risk of cutting into the tube. After 2 or 3 weeks, and a dozen cable ties, the reinforced silicon tube (rated at 250c) will have melted to the point it is no longer effective, so the exhaust starts blowing residue all over the back end.

I used a 3s 5000mAh 40c LiPo in mine without issues. changed the connectors to xt60 though.

I'll take a look into that, thanks!

This is the join that's giving issues. But as above, hi temp hose doesn't work, as it just melts. The stuff I use is rated to 250c, and only lasts 2 or 3 outings before it breaks down completely. One side of the join has a OD or 25mm, the other side is 22mm. So most hoses will fit one end, but not the other too well. With the ones you linked, both of those wouldn't last long either, and I've never been able to find anything over 250c.

Might be an odd one for some, but has anyone got a decent alternative material for joining the exhaust together (header + main pipe) Every kind of silicone tube I have used melts after 2 or 3 runs, which some are rated at 200 - 250 degrees I tried using an aluminium can cut and rolled but ended up blowing holes in the first use. The exhaust I use has the header near the exhaust port of the engine, and one side of the join is larger than the other, as it sits inside itself. I'd consider getting it welded as 1 piece, but I have to take the exhaust off on a regular basis, so that's not an option, and don't want to ruin the header threads. Pipe I'm using is a riot stampede silenced side pipe Cheers chaps.

Held great. Got me through the rest of the bash. Wouldn't recommend it though. Never thought that it would hold pressure.... Opened it to clean it and it was like opening a shaken fizzy drink... Everywhere.

Thought I would make a thread about bodge jobs that have happened while on the field. couldn't see anything similar, so here we are. We've all done it before, but perhaps keeping to a "recent" timescale would be cool, because bodging has been around forever. It could even help out someone else one day. A short story, and a picture. I was scudding my Baja with a few mates, and some of us play full contact. My Baja took a tumble and I can only assume that one of the guys hit one of the rear wheels, it snapped the shock limiter cable, and overextended the shock so it snapped at the top and bottom. The top snapped at the plastic eye, so it ejected all the oil. I had enough spares to fix the top, but nothing to fix the bottom and no oil. Cables ties to fix the bottom end, no one had any type of oil, so...... Lucozade Caribbean crush to fill the shock. Once the bubbles settled it got thrown back together and lasted the rest of the day. So, some point this week I'll have to give the shock a good clean and rebuild. Though the whole Baja deserves a strip down and clean.

Well, it's narrowed down... Take the servo out the car and see if it works. Can you describe the sound?

Manual is here, shows the location of buttons and knobs https://www.manualslib.com/manual/867442/Hpi-Racing-Tf-40.html?page=4#manual You could of changed it by accident, so try that first. If you haven't touched the EPA, we'll leave that for now. Maybe change the steering REV back to how you had it if the dual rate hasn't changed anything. Could be a lose connection on the receiver, or the servo has died... But swapping the wires over will show that.

Check the steering dual rate... This adjusts how much throw the servo has, if turned all the way down, the servo will do nothing. Also look at the EPA (End point adjustment), if both L & R are turned down, the servo probably wont do much. If you still have no luck, open up the receiver box and swap the servo wires to the steering and throttle to just test the servos and transmitter, so the throttle on the transmitter does steering, and steering does throttle. See what works and what doesn't. Then swap them back.

Which controller are you using? Does the throttle still work? If the throttle works, the transmitter is bound to the receiver.

I will second Switch blade. Have one on my Baja and DBXL 40 quid seems a lot. But it can, and will save your model if setup correctly. Things like... Low battery in the model, battery disconnects, transmitter battery dying, throttle sticking open. I tend to use mine to just shut the engine down when I've done a few laps. In the future, it would also be worth looking at doing the mesh mod on the crank case, and get outwares for the pull start and airfilter. These help stop dirt and debris clogging up the flywheel and cooling fins, as well as keeping the air filter cleaner for longer. This is one of my engines with the mesh mod

Blue locktight / threadlock will do the trick. I use red on the engine bolts. Stock motor will be fine. Run it in slowly and it should last a while if you use decent 2 stroke oil. The only thing I'd really get is a killswitch, it's more for safety and peace of mind that will help stop your RC car from running away. Loads of measures that will kill the engine, either itself, or by you with the controller. Some slight soldering is required, but it's straight forward. You can buy a kickup plate and Y plate, these will strenghten the chassis, but you could also get a front bumper, or both. Any upgrades you could do as and when the original break. Bajas only really break if you hit something hard, or have a bad tumble. I'd maybe get some spare spur gears... Keep them plastic though... Nice to have a weak spot.

Had this happen with 2 Graphene packs, the tabs burst from the cells, leaving a tiny bit remaining. You'll never get the wire to solder back onto that first tab, The amount of heat needed is pretty high, and that heat travels quickly into the cell Which is bad. At best, you could repair it into a 3s battery, but you'll be doing that at your own risk. Would I repair it, yeah, done it loads of times. Would I recommend it, hell no.... Many things can go wrong.

Does it spit from the exhaust? If so it's probably running really rich[too much fuel] . Might need the tune set to factory and start again.

Cabletie between the top of the piston and the exhaust port on the sleeve, gently turn the flywheel and the piston will push the sleeve up with the cabletie. Then you can ease the sleeve out.

Just remember you will need insurance, BRCA, I'd wait until January to get it though, as I think it runs Jan - Dec. I imagine if you contact Dan on his facebook group, he'll let you pop over and see what's going on. I'd love to go there and give it a blast, but it's more of a trek for me. Hopefully in spring I might go down and have a look.

Might be worth checking this out bud. Paddlesworth RC track. They are making a crawler track at the moment. They also have a facebook page https://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/news/industry-news/?-paddlesworth-rc-new-track-kent-r949/