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More painting Don't get too close though, this is going to be bashed to hell so I wasn't bothered about a perfect finish.

Put some paint down

Built this in between rc builds

Yeah links can expire pretty quickly, especially when most stuff comes from eBay. Here's my thoughts on mods on order of importance: 1 - Bearing kit, install when building rather than doing it later. www.rcbearings.co.uk have supplied bearings for pretty much every kit I've built. 2 - Alloy body mounts. The heavy abs body just shears off the plastic body mounts first time you roll it. Search eBay for "lunchbox alloy body mounts" there'll be a few options for about a tenner. That's all you need to get started but of course there's loads you can do to these so next up: 3 - 5th shock mod as the leaf springs will be gone after the first run. This is to stop the slap from the gearbox when you accelerate. There's a little 3d printed part you can get that's a lot easier to fit, Google "ampro engineering cw01 transmission brace". 4 - Replace the shocks but I like tamiya stuff so I'd go for the tamiya short shock set 2. These can be quite pricy though so alternately look for something 75-85mm. You'll need the mounts which are supplied in the kit, if you don't have these then check eBay for "tamiya 9805082". 5 - faster motor. I always thought a 15t motor was the sweet spot in these, wheelies all day and a good top end speed. Of course there are plenty ways to go faster if you want. 6 - tyre foams. These help with handling without losing too much of the madness. I can't remember which ones I used now so get some help from Google for that. 7 - better wheelie bar. The standard one is a bit rubbish, I left it too long and the end where the wheel was had mostly been ground away and it had pushed holes into the gearbox casing. Look on eBay for "lunchbox wheelie bar". I bought a nice one and has 2 little wheels and brace. From there your imagination is your only limit. You could get a parma lexan body to reduce weight up top. Miniature manufacturing make some lovely alloy wheels. Chassis bracing looks nice but I don't think it makes much real world difference, I have one brace between the front shocks. You can get a kit that allows you to use standard pinions, I use a 20t 32dp pinion on mine.

Built it And tomorrow I'll start on the decals.

Welcome to the forum, glad it’s been so useful. One thing I’d recommend would be to get a can of silver as well to back the ps16, it’s a lovely colour but goes on quite thin. Backing with silver will make the colour pop.

The faster you go the harder you crash.

Painted the driver figure for my VQS. Actually better than my last driver 😂

That looks mint, I've got that decal set for my clear body. What paint did you use?

I spent about 2 hours this evening upgrading the steering and building 2 front shocks for my vqs. I'm in no hurry.

Finished mine as well this morning

Finished the decals on the escort. I haven't done the chassis yet so it's sitting on my mf01x beetle chassis.

Replaced the plastic suspension balls with metal hopup ones as the lower arms were slipping off the ball and jamming the suspension.

The king yellow is well loved by those who have them, I’d like to get one myself soon.

Bent front shocks mainly. Upgrades were cheap so I’ve upgraded a few bits, hardly use it though.

CNC alloy wheels from miniature manufacturing. They're quite heavy and stronger than the axles.

I made my lunchbox go fast and then bent an axle by spinning into a curb.

Fitted a few little upgrades to my dt03 while I wait for better weather to paint it.

Glued the wipers on and fitted some metal air horns. That's it finished for now.

Hi, The new esc will have an internal bec. batteries and charger, I’d just find something from a reputable seller that fits my budget but look for hardcase lipos. Modelsport sell a core RC one that fits tamiya cars for about £26. Yes, c rating is something to do with discharge rate, higher c can give more punch on acceleration. Don’t run the completely flat, only down to about 3.6v per cell, the esc will have a low voltage cutoff. The other wires are for balancing the charge on the cells, it’s used by the charger. I’ve been happy with overland batteries from modelsport but the ones I have are a bit of a squeeze in some cars so I’ve got one of the core rc batteries on order. I’ve been using the same basic charger for years. It looks like this but different colour and brand: https://www.modelsport.co.uk/skyrc-e680-ac-dc-80w-charger/rc-car-products/440716. I can tell you I’m happy with what I’ve been using but can’t really comment on other brands that I’ve no experience with. run times on lipos and brushless are much better than they used to be in 1987 and with a 4370kv motor I dare say you’ll need to repair before recharge, that’s going to be one fast lunchie.

Yes, it's a kit. It comes pre painted as well, ideal for winter when I don't have anywhere to paint. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=427744 I'm looking at options for trailers but I've got a few other builds to get through first.

"i don't know about you guys but I think this looks EPIC!" Factory painted in matte black with a few little details added by me.

I said earlier I wasn’t going to do any lights but I did in the end. Just used a kit I had to hand so I’ve only got headlights and front indicators.