lilllad83

Contact Modelsport and explain the situation, they are pretty good usually so it's worth an ask.. May still be covered by warranty for that circumstance.. they might even sort you out if its not you never know!

http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/159865-nitro-to-flux-conversion-for-hpi-trophy-truggy-46/ Check this out... also try a search for hpi trophy e conversion there's loads of threads out there

Shock lengths on this page m8 http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=51774

Take the original shocks off and measure eye to eye, then compress and measure eye to eye again, that should give u a starting point. Nice job btw, very pink lol No idea on 5th shock mind soz :-/

Just curious if anyone knows how much work is involved using the aux channel to switch between f/r steering and crab steering? that could be an interesting project if doable?

I'd complain m8 tell em your last name is laden and ur expecting an important video...

Royal fail or parcel farse!?

Set all trims to neutral/centre BEFORE calibration :-)

got some 17mm hexes that should fit your savage as direct replacement for 14's. only the steel slide on ones mind but they do there job. if u want em send me your address you can have them free of charge. I know it don't help with ur wheel issue but may make finding some easier. Cheers rich

old thread but hey ho here goes. Followed the above but when I tell my pc to paste the link nout shows up, allowed the clipboard access etc still no link grrr help!! I have uploaded before btw it seems to be playing up

Might need a firmware update via pc? Just a thought

I put hard springs rear, soft front, locked out front diff with blutak and practiced donuting round a plate, then figure of 8 round 2 plates. It's just practice more than anything, better on carpet or lino, Tarmac if glass smooth. Any bumps will throw your bk end away big time You could try a touch of weight on the rear if all else fails!

does it happen as u adjust the steering while ur keeping it straight when flat out? things to try rebinding tx & rx, recalibrate esc/radio, Either try a higher c rated lipo or the turn punch down, Try fit a glitch buster (voltage regulator/capacitor) Make sure rx antenna is not bundled with motor wires and is stood up away from chassis (or at least the last inch or so of the arial wire is stood up) if possible, try another radion system if fault persisted

I must say in recent months 1/10 sc has exploded at our local track (cmcc) 99% being Durango desc210's as there going cheap atm rtr or kit (no difference in em tbh) and I must add I've never even seen a 1:8sc never mind at our track lol they fly on 2s with a 7.5t motor and high discharge lipos, not sure about 3s that may kill 1/10 gearboxes quickly :-/

Nice! looking like a wheelie bar is in order :-)

how about

Check the chip for serial numbers and google it, you might just get lucky!

Check the chip for serial numbers and google it, you might just get lucky!

Bit beyond my scope of understanding but would a voltage capacitor/regulator help? Ie glitch buster or similar?

Try a pinion with one less tooth, although if its sensorless mine does that even if gearing is right :-/

It'll be a bit slower and have more tork is that what ur after? if u want the same kinda speeds stay in the 4800kv range

Try pop bearings out, test for free movement.. You can use a touch of 3 in 1 oil or wd40/gt85 to loosen em bk up if sticking, if they grind badly when freed replace em

I'd have some lighter shoes on it too those stock wheels won't help with diff issues there damn heavy

as is- being brushed and has oldschool radio

I use 17t, 19t or 20t in my 8.2e but that's with standard diffs on a 2200kv motor I only get about 15mins atm When I ran 2650 I used 16t