Feisty84

Looks like a good little setup that. People race those. Should be good fun on the tarmac. I'd read up a bit about tuning and general do's and don'ts. For now I'd just keep it as it is and learn how to get it running and practise tuning for the weather conditions. It's a 1:10th scale model and I'd expect that to have a .15 or.18 engine. 16% nitro fuel is what you need for that engine size and Byron's is the brand of choice. Glow plug of choice would be a medium or hot. Have fun!

^^ What he said Should be toeing out a couple of degree's on the front and toeing in a couple of degree's on the rear. Bare in mind that when the front suspension is pressed down it'll pull the toeing back in slightly, so you want it toeing out enough so that it doesn't start toeing in with the movement of the suspension.

Don't give up! Part of the fun in RC's is the stripping things down/rebuilding. If you don't enjoy that then RC model's are possibly the wrong hobby... Nitro's are a steep learning curve but once you've read up a bit about it and put advice into action its not that bad. For the hyper: First off, Rotostarts eat one way bearings. If it sounds like its not turning over right then this could be it. Check that the roto start is actually turning over the engine. One way bearings are relatively easy to obtain and fit. If your still having trouble and the engine turns over ok: Use a hot glow plug. Also physically check your glow starter by pluggin just the bare glow plug in and check that the coil glows amber. Check your fuel lines and fuel filter for blockages. Also try and put some pressure in your fuel tank to make sure there are no leaks there. Make sure the engine has good compression. The flywheel will turn easily for a short amount then you should feel resistance as the piston goes up the bore. It should be hard to turn. The clutchbell should turn freely. Check for engine air leaks. (google is your friend for the method) Check the pressure pipe from the exhaust to the fuel tank. Make sure the nipple on the exhaust isn't blocked and the pipe is ok. Try and find the factory needle settings for your engine. Set accordingly.(I know you've already done this) Try to prime the engine when starting. Blowing in the exhaust should make fuel go down to the carb. If you put your finger over the exhaust outlet in short bursts when starting will ensure the engine gets primed. Loosen the glow plug about quarter of a turn when starting. If the engine is getting flooded, fuel will start spraying out. Drain the fuel and keep trying! (don't forget to retighten the glow plug if the engine fires up) If its still not starting you might want to investigate the carb again (possible blockage that you didn't see) or see whats going on inside the engine. For the Tamiya: Like everyone says, try leaning out the LSN a little. Also try a hot glow plug. Cooler glow plugs will require a leaner setting to keep running (not a great thing in this weather) All the best! F

Theoretically, two stroke engines can run in either direction with little to worry about. (other than directional nuts coming loose) Given the fact that the one way bearing is toast it probably fired up on the back stroke and carried on. Its also the knackered bearing that's probably causing some if not all of the trouble. A knackered pullstart/one way bearing is likely to leak a load of air which wont help. The bearings internal to the engine shouldn't have been damaged by reverse running. The loss of compression is a mystery though. Perhaps its settled back to what it is normal now that any oil left in the engine has been burnt off?

The Force .28 engine in my truggy is a little screamer. I was quite surprised how well it performed compared to my buggy with its .21 race engine. No problems with it so far and im about to convert it to non pullstart

Proline or GRP dish wheels seem to stand up pretty well.

I used the 55W car headlamp solution. Up on the downs there is nothing but 12v from my main car or starter boxes. the lead acid batteries had no issues keeping the lamp going for engine starts and doing their usual job.

I'm sure in any case removing an old dirty filter and replacing with a nice clean one will offer a boost. I like the Answer RC oval air filter. Its compact and fits under most shells with ease plus it comes with a spare sponge. Replacement sponges are also cheap and easy to find.

Having used Byrons Gen2 25%, Optifuel Race 25% and Model Technics Big Bang 25% I would say on balance you wouldn't have any problems using any of them if you tune your engine correctly. I would say though, you pay for what you get and Byrons in my experience definitely has the edge. The main difference I notice with Byrons is how cleanly the engine runs and holds a consistent tune. Second to that would be Optifuel, Followed by Model Technics. The cheaper fuels do produce a lot more smoke though and can fool people into leaning off too far. Stay away from MT's lesser blends (usually a yellow colour instead of redish/pink) When I was starting out I made the mistake of buying MT 25% Dura glow and it was awful. Way too oily. As for the plug, As everyone says an OS no.8 will do fine. Hope that helps

Diff oil is normally a lot thicker and would probably make your shocks rock hard. Lol

Have you tried adjusting the idle screw to see if the overrevving sorts itself out? Also, you could check the pressure return nipple on the exhaust is connected to the fuel tank properly and not pinched or blocked. If its still running lean on stock settings then you might have to investigate an air leak.

Looks very retro. Some of these models can be 20+ years old. I think its safe to say that Google and eBay will be very good friends to help maintain one of these. Downloadable manuals should be available with a bit of searching.

I run the Answer RC oval air filter in my caster and its very similar in fitment to that bar the ability to mount it to the deflector on the fuel tank. You could see if there is any adjustment to the fuel tank & deflector mounts as this will have an effect on the air filter mounted to it. In the pics it does appear to droop a bit in the direction of the linkage. It will be a snug fit anyway as space is tight under a buggy shell but if in doubt adjust or replace.

The heavier oil only makes it harder for the diff to slip and unload. It doesn't affect the overall speed of the car. During normal drive the diff isn't slipping and will provide equal drive to both sides of the diff. Having stiffer oil makes it harder for one wheel to spin up and unload as it looses traction. In the case of central diff, stiffer oil keeps equal drive going to front and rear longer before loss of traction makes it unload. The heavier oil will also have a slight impact on the rotational speed at which the diff unloads as the heavier oil will help limit some of the slip. The only other things you want to worry about is making sure the clutch bell and spur gear are nicely adjusted and that the bearings are kept in good condition.

Nice one Neil, Cheers for that. Ordered. One less potential air leak to worry about.

I suppose if it fits then its got to be worth a go. I'd also be wanting to make sure that the new backplate is also doing a good job of keeping the conrod snug against the crank pin like the original backplate would. Guess bluetac could help with that?

If you're feeling confident you could have a go yourself... Guide

Just a quick question. I'm just wondering if anyone has found/fitted a non pullstart backplate to one of these engines? I'm sure its likely to be a pointless question as such a part probably doesn't exist for this engine. I know its an option for some engines so worth a go. Cheers F

Same deal, heat up the engine. Keep the new bearings cool, apply a drop of ARO to the new bearings and the expanded metal of the heated engine should make fitting easy. Try and use wood if you can for fitting and removal. It'll avoid any damage to the metal. Keep the bearing nice and level when fitting it. If you try and drift it in when it isnt level it'll be hard work.

Nice one, Cheers for that. I can see from the picture the profile is exactly like the original gasket.

Its possible that the glow plug has developed an air leak. I've had a plug that has done that before and the pin on the top was wobbly. Presumably if the plug was leaking hot gases from the engine could pass through it and heat it right up... Edit. Just had a thought... does the plug have a washer on the thread? If it was missing that wouldnt do much good...

Yeah, running lean will do that. Not seen the glow plug glow red hot on the outside though!

Hi all, I've got an Alpha 2081 tuned pipe fitted to my Argus A52 and the gaskets on the exhaust perished. The Alpha ones that came with it were brown in colour and quite thin. I've bought a few different spare gaskets and none of them fit! I thought they all looked the same. Others seem thicker but are the same shape. They fit around the pipe header but its too tight and the pipe wont push together without the gasket becoming damaged. So far i've tried some HPI ones and generic blue coloured ones... (wasted about

I'd better get talking to the bank manager then... lol Maybe he could loan some of his bonus

If you want something that moves, and goes extremely fast then maybe this is for you: http://www.topgear.com/uk/car-news/super-radio-controlled-car-2011-12-05