Cheese85

Ah, ok. Thanks for your help, I'll get some on order.

Are the 'HD' ones these; http://www.racing-cars.com/pp/Old_Cars_and_Parts/Mi4CX/U3832.html or these?: http://www.racing-cars.com/pp/Product_Category/Full_List/U3823.html Thanks for helping.

Hi all, another question from me! Having recently upgraded the electronics in my Mi-1 to a much more powerful setup, I found the plastic drive shafts kept breaking because of the increase in stress. So I upgraded to the Fusion 28 (NItro version of the Mi-1, for those who don't know) steel drive shafts. They worked for one meet, and the next one of them sheared (the cup part - through both holes, causing a whole side of the cup to fall off). So I was wondering which alternative drive shafts I could use that could take the stress. Xray T4 drive shafts looked like they might fit, but I haven't had a chance to try them. Thanks for any help.

Hi all! Been a while since I posted a help thread on here, but nevertheless; For the past two years I've been running an Etronix Photon 13.5 turn combo (Re-branded Hobbywing stuff) in my Mi1 without much issue, but since they don't make the old ones anymore (the V2 is terribly in my opinion) and mine just died on me, I'm in the market for a new one. Instead of sourcing another V1 on ebay etc I thought it would be a good time to upgrade my ESC and Motor. My friend (goes by the username Epiclurcher on here) recommended these to me: Hobbywing Just Stock ESC (Lower end) Muchmore FLETA 4 ESC (Higher end) ThunderPower 13.5t 540 motor (He has one and he loves it, a fine machine) He got these recommendations from his pals up north in Scotland, so I have faith that they are good. But are there any alternatives that are better deals, more durable etcetera? I don't really want to have to spend more than 120 quid for both, which is still a lot all things considered, but sometimes you just need to get what you need. I also find it ironic that he's recommending these to me when I'm the one who introduced him to the hobby last year, having been racing for a little over a year before that, not to mention he's already 10 times faster than me. Probably something to do with him having his Xray T4 set up by the national TC champion who happens to be his uncle's best mate, but whatever. TLDR; I need a new ESC and Motor for a TC (13.5), what's a good deal for a

The second model I linked, the Traxxas Slash, has a very high center to it's chassis. This effectively gives it about twice the ground clearance of your average off road RC. This particular feature would allow the Slash to drive along a corrugated roof if the corrugations were big enough for the Slash's fairly large tires to fit in (if they are small corrugations, you won't need to worry). Beware though, this chassis design also gives the Slash a very high center of gravity, so it's easier to roll over in corners. If you birds it will be up against require a nimble lure that changes direction quickly, then something like the HPI Blitz (the first truck I linked) might be better suited for the job, even with a lower ride height. Most off road RCs will come with a set of preload clips. These clip around the body of the model's shock absorbers, compressing the spring and raising the ride height. It won't do the handling any favors, but it'll be able to get across longer grass and maybe deal with rough gravel better. Don't put to many of the clips on though, as doing so will make your suspension too hard to compress and the car wont get much grip. And another thing; RC cars are something it's best not to skimp on. If you want something that'll last and withstand a few years worth of impacts from birds of prey, chances are it'll cost you a pretty penny. The Traxxas Slash and The Hpi Blitz are both such vehicles. Whatever car you decide on, make sure you get the right kit to go with it! With most, you'll need a battery and a charger, although some come with them in the box. And be sure to read the car's manual and get to know what you're dealing with, even if you don't want to get into the hobby side of things.

A bunch of guys run the buggy version of this at my local club, and they're almost always the ones at the top of the standings. And those sidewalls look so awesome!

I've seen falconing displays that used an RC car as a lure, I believe the last one I saw used a Hong Nor CRT, but that was a Nitro powered vehicle. One thing I though you might want to consider is the safety risk of the tires; could the bird attempt to grap a tire with it's talons and injure itself in the process? If that's a legitimate issue, then a Short Course truck might be more suitable than an open wheeled car. Short course trucks have enclosed fenders with the wheels tucked under the body, so It could be a safer option. The large body also makes up for the size of the relatively skinny and light chassis, and might be a good starting point for making a fake animal to make it seem more authentic. Here is the sort of vehicle I am referring to: http://www.modelsport.co.uk/hpi-blitz-flux-rtr/rc-car-products/371979 or this: http://www.modelsport.co.uk/traxxas-slash-2.4ghz-tq-mark-jenkins-/rc-car-products/375658 Those particular ones might be too small for you, but there are other larger vehicles that have the same body style. be warned though, once you start going big, things get very expensive. The two models I linked are both very popular and well known cars, famous for their durability and low maintainance. Sorry if I'm making things too complicated by adding more options, but I thought you could use some more suggestions.

This bears a striking resemblance to the Xray T4...

Thanks for the link Nitrohlolic, I'll definitely be using that shop. But when you say 7.4v, does that mean you can just plug any old 2s pack into the receiver (as long as the receiver can cope)? Because when I charge my 2s packs they charge to 8.4v, so would that not blow the servo up? On another note, I definitely don't recommend KM servos and other electronics. The servo I had was supposed to be their high power, 7.4v 30kg servo and it was a bit slow and made a crunchy noise as it moved. And as I said, it broke during normal operation.

Hello again all, The servo in my Baja (A King Motor GWS servo) has failed because of a small impact in the form of a perfectly normal landing from a very small jump, which knocked one of the four microchips on the servo's controller to come off, causing other damage and a short circuit. The chip is far too small to re solder, so I need a replacement. Preferably not another KM GWS because it failed under normal operation. The Hpi SFL11MG servo is rather expensive, so I'm not sure about it. Are there any cheaper, good servos that take a 6v input (or maybe an 8.4v?) that are fairly cheap but durable and reliable? I appreciate the fact that large scale RC is an expensive hobby, but

Surely If they are that important in a high voltage application, a cap pack and anti-spark resistor should be included as standard with every XL2?

I'm pretty sure what you have there is an SST 98, or at least, is has the 98's top deck.The car was designed with an arrow shaped chassis in an effort to keep the majority of the weight towards the cars center line. Got a new belt yet? If you still haven't found anywhere to get one, you can get them and all the car's other parts directly from Schumacher's website. http://www.racing-cars.com/scp/Old_Cars_and_Parts/SST_98.html

Thanks, I'll order one of those with the Castle Link to try it out, only

Castle link it is then. No, I don't have a Cap pack or an anti-spark on my wires, how do I go about getting and installing them?

You can make some nice replica American muscle cars using Hpi's vast selection of bodyshells and wheels/tires. Combined with a high ride height, thin damper oil and soft springs, you can get a surprisingly realistic handling car for not a lot of cash thats pretty fun to drive and can handle the odd curb hop too. You wouldn't need an especially powerful motor or battery to have a lot of fun and good scale looks with that idea. Alternatively, you could do a nice replica drifter or rally car, depending on how much modification you are willing to make to the chassis.

Ah well, no such luck!

Ok, thanks Admiral! I managed to fix the problem by adjusting the steering endpoints, but I'd still like to run an RX pack for that little extra runtime. Thanks guys! I got a code for a Castle Link with the conversion kit, I just found it in the back of the manual, never even saw it there, even though I read the manual thoroughly. unfortunately, I have to get it from the US, so I dont know if the code applies to UK residents. I guess I'll just try it and see!

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/hpi-front-rear-shock-set-assembled-2pcs-recon-/rc-car-products/366556 Here you go, mate!

So, does this mean I can plug one of my 2s Packs into the RX and have it power the servo? Will I still have to remove the red wire from the ESC's RX lead if I want to do this, like Admiral said?

OK, thanks for all the replies guys! List of things to try tomorrow or near future: RX Capacitor Adjust steering endpoints External BEC RX Battery pack (Check RX voltage) And if all else fails, call Castle. In response to Noj's question, I don't know what the BEC is set to, but the ESC states it has a 5 Amp BEC, If that is what you mean. If not, I don't know how to find out. (Use a Castle link, maybe?) Bazzokajoe, I am using a Spektrum SR300 RX, But I have noticed similar effects on the car with a HPI RF40 receiver as well. Thanks again guys!

Hi guys, Another question from me! I have finally finished my electric Baja build and everything is working fine so far, but I have found that the BEC in the XL2 ESC is either underpowered of overpowered, and I often find myself with the car cutting out for a few seconds if I steer too suddenly or back and forth to counteract fishtailing. Could I use and external NiMh pack to power the Receiver and servo, or just the servo? If so, how would I do it? would I use a 6v pack or a 7.2v pack? do I plug it into the servo with a Y-splitter cable, or into the receiver? If an external pack is not an option, what else could I try? Also, I'm using a Spektrum SR300 receiver and a King Motor GWS Servo. Thanks for any help! #Edit to fix typo - I put SR3000, meant to type SR300

Strange you had those breakages when you first got it, mine's been very tough and I've never broken anything in the few months I've owned it. Good to hear you're having fun with it now!

Looks reminiscent of the TB-02.

Ok then, thanks anyway!