Garry

The cutoff setting on the ESC relates to ESC temperature not motor temperature., there are no sensors inside the motor to monitor the motor temperature. Its possible to fry the ESC with a stone cold motor, when the motor is jammed/stalled for example.

Its a warm time of year so airflow under the body will be important, but the source of excessive heat will be gearing as Tug says, difficult to advise without knowing more variables like what type of driving you're doing. Why does hobbywing not let me set the temp exactly to motor spec? Closest is 5c over, and it let it get to 109c Because the ESC is designed to work with a variety of manufacturer's motors with their own specs and needs. What's the likelihood of any damage? Car is running fine, so I presume once isn't a big deal. Always always set the cutoff BELOW the motor limit, never above, round the figure down if necessary. Going over even once can be enough to kill it. Going over regularly WILL kill it. What is the best way to cool the motor? Adjust gearing up or down depending if the car if undergeared or overgeared. Being overgeared is more likely, so smaller pinion gear. Fit a cooling fan to the ESC if one isn't already fit. Cut cooling holes in the body. Drive with frequent breaks to let it cool.

99% sure its the sound of the rear bevel gear stripping against the rear diff. The car just isn't designed for 11+ volts. The reason why you gear it more on deceleration is because the motor stops turning whilst the wheels ( and diff) are still rotating. The cure is: - drive smoother on throttle and brake input) -shim the bevel gear closer to the diff ( can't be done on this car) -Use a 2s battery -get a different car Cheapest option is to be a better driver.

I sounds like s combination of entry level ESC with unrefined motor. Higher quality versions of both will avoid the problem. Tamiya ESC software code isn't known for being smooth running, those ESCs are pretty much designed to get you kit initially moving then upgraded soon after. Trackstar motors are hit and miss, some can run really strongly, others seem to be horrific. The Trackstar 17.5 I had was the latter. Hopefully yours is in the former camp. The Hobbywing Justock ESC will run that motor no sweat for around £40 so great value for money. sensored too.

Strip down started, I found a few bent screws from it's previous life as a banger racer. And a rounded off pinion so I'll have to get a pinion puller to save that one. This weekends job is plan how the cells get held in, and buy some to build my own packs up.

This pic I found on Google shows 10th on-road wheels fitted on a V12 running standard height. Fitting off-road tyres needs more clearance. Off road suspension needs even more clearance.

These are significantly smaller than a TL01. Don't underestimate it, they are made up of less than 25 significant parts in total and once its converted you may only be reusing 10 at most. Wheel wise, 10th wheels don't fit under the standard body, you'll have to cut large sections away for clearance.And more for suspension travel.

Bad news first right? Don't worry better news will follow. It's totally the wrong car for that type of driving. The have millimetres of suspension monrment not the inches needed for off road use. At absolute best it'll struggle to run on a rough street. It uses Z-Drive wheel fittings so first step is to convert it to hexes to fit more regular rally car wheels and tyres. These will be 60mm diameter rather than the stock 50mm diameter so an extra 10mm of ground clearance. Bad news now To get any more clearance you'll be fabricating so much in the front suspension and replacing the motor pod and rear axle, fitting a differential etc that it's less effort and cost to just start off with something better suited to begin with. So basically it's possibly possible but it's not a quick simple project, expect it to take a long time to end up with something still terrible at the job in hand. On the positive side its definitely a Mardave V12, I've had lots over the years. They are very limited cars in terns of what they can and can't do. It's not xa kind of car where you just buy and fit upgrades. It's a car best suited to scratch builders and fabricators. So to recap Convert to hexes Fit rally wheels and tyres Fit off road suspension Possibly replace the entire rear end of the car

Kamtec delivery yesterday included goodies like this

The most advanced NiMh race charger in RC history. Revolutionary at the time, it was basically six 10A chargers in one unit. And had the price tag to match. I lusted after one in 2005 but then LiPo became mainstream. I sound this one brand spanking new in the box, unopened, unused. Its now in my collection.

A great idea for applications which don't generate much heat like crawling or drifting, they don't require huge FETs so make installs much much neater and saves weight. Double win.

It could also be slop in the steering system or servo horn/saver at some point. W the car on a flat surface can you manually turn the wheels to the left or right much before the servo begins to turn?

Rubbin's racing etc. the nerf bars aren't for decoration!

The problem is you're using an off-road car on road, no company makes long lasting tyres for such a car on such a surface. The next bet is to just pick any that fit and accept they'll be wearing our quickly unfortunately. Or get an on-road car if that's the type of sylurface you'll be primarily driving on.

More of my first oval runner. It's actually originally made by a chap down south and goes by the name LARGE-IT, it's currently built to Saloon Stox rules but I'll be changing a few bits to make it 1300 legal. The Kamtec MSC will be swapped for an ESC, The body is a Toyota Starleytbut as you can see in the pics its well raced! The body rules say you can have anything as long as the real car was sold as a 1.3 engine (1300 - as in 1300cc), its mostly small hatches like Novas, Fiesas etc, I've picked a couple of Ford escorts, a narrow arch mk1 and a mk3. Ive got to fit a receiver and look at improving the battery mount. It's achassis designed to take a 6cell NiMh so the 4 cell in it is a little loose at present. And maybe a few more tweaks I've picked up before irs race ready. It's basically a simple chassis design, floating rear pod, solid axle, foam tyres, simple sliding kingpin front end undampned suspension and a flex GRP chassis. Andgot big beefy bumpers for the inevitable contact... Fun times!

I'm taking the leap into the genre of oval racing. 1/12th tough RWD beauties which replicate the UK short oval scene in real motorsport. Theres several classes of UK oval racing reflecting the real classes raced: 1300 (4.8v max, ESC, hatchback bodies, mild contact) Saloon stox (7.4v max, MSC, saloon bodies (Sierra/Mondeo etc), mild contact) F2 stockcars (.8v max ESC, proper stockcar chassis and bodies, harsh contact) Bangers (4.8v max, MSC, banger bodies, full contact) Go forwards, turn a bit, simple yeah? I'll be finding out soon enough! Mardave is the longest standing manufacturer having basically stated the form of racing in the 1970s and refining it over the years and evolving it. Nowadays Kamtec is a leader in the category selling both kits and ready built cars alongside many scratch builders who base their designs on other concepts and take them a step further. I'm going to be joining the 1300 class as a starter, before moving to faster more involved classes later, My nearest club runs an indoor carpet oval 30mins away. only 2 corners but still a challenge to me from a history of circuit racing. I'll post my stuff I learn in this thread. But to start with my noble steed...

Theres really few absolutely terrible batteries around now, there's only a handful of factories producing them before they have brand X or Y applied, thats why you see so many different packs with similar numbers nowadays. Most variation are found in configurations. The racing market are where the biggest performance differences are seen. Basically if you're not racing, buy whatever you can afford.

Theres not really any bad servos around anymore, they re all universally tough, long lasting, so just pick whichever you see for the budget you have. Its not like your application needs above average turn speed or higher than average holding torque etc.

Its not so much the flex its that car paint sticks because of primer which isn't as option for clear lexan bodies. There isn't a direct one-can solution to get a paint match to that metallic light blue. Tamiya comes close though, PS49 Anodized Sky Blue Aluminium. Possibly a bit too blue and not silver enough?

Its one of those ''Why didn't thy think of it sooner'' cars. Mega, I guess a flower power bug is next.

Whats the budget?

I'ver got the T4'20, it has its issues but over come them and its capable for sure. Its definitely at the upper end o the price range and for most people a use older T4'19 will be just as capable without the price tag, you're still looking at £250ish used The other players at that price point are new 3Racing Sakura Advance or a new Xpress, both are not at the Xray level of quality and fit and finish, but the price reflects that, which is understandable. Speed RC are the place for those kits, they are rear motor kits but mid conversion are due this year. http://speedrc.co.uk/ General racing bits MB Models are the place to go. https://www.rccarshop.co.uk/

Kinda. On a purely temperature level, yes - with caveats. The 21t motor will be considerably slower despite being gear slightly higher. So you might find yourself thrashing it to its limits to give similar performance which counteracts the point of picking a slower motor gear higher. All other thing being equal then its about where the peak power is achieved. Basically the performance difference between those two motor is larger than these two pinion sizes. A slow motor geared higher will be less efficient than a fast motor closer to its ideal powerband. Think Ford Fiesta in 5th gear vs Ford Focus RS in 3rd gear.

Pretty much yup. Just make a note Of where you start then make a small (1 or 2 notches) then adjust and test. No big changes as its easy to go too far and cook the motor making it fit for then bin. Timing is more a fine tuning thing not a big leap in performance, Its unlikely to gain 8mph from just a timing change, for that its a gearing change you need, then adjust the timing to make it run comfortable temperature wise.