Trans4Mation

^^^^^^ Deffo . Buy a used donor off bay add extra axel & even twin steer , the list goes on . Giga is nice not many about not like the 620, all you had to do was extend the rails on the 470 an add extra axel so I wouldn't bother with the 620 .

Welcome to the nut house, On the control box there's the hole where the spring sits an then the trigger goes on after & held in place with a screw with built in washer. On the spring theres two tails you see sit on lugs on the trigger one either side to give you self return on forwards & backwards, yeh manny is correct it's a tamiya qd one it does still use the same crystals as other tamiya cars so good chance a normal tx will work, i will have a look later this week see if I've still got few packed away.

Pop in your local b&q buy m3 or m4 bar & pack of lock nuts. Cut the bar to required length needed add two wheel hex's an pair of old touring car wheels that's the axel sorted . For the frame you can use alloy section again from b&q screw or rivet it all together . Use to other sections of alloy on the lower trailer rail drill two holes an slide the axel bar in . It's a easy job to make if your wanting to build a caravan shape use cardboard or if wanting to go all out plasticard & plastic weld . Or even by a kamtec caravan body & build the chassis round that. The alloy & rod etc from b&q should cost you no more than

I'd buy the links & tranny mount an axels 28 posted if you did split to help others.

Yep bud top links are adjustable you will need to trim the outer rod ends as on my m06 lowrider there butted up to get the camber inline going from stock build in manual it was towing out looked crazy , I was thinking of adding camber to as I'm running 1/10 style rims an it's just catching the body on full lock it's that low . & to get more lock you could trim the hub arms. Rear diff should be an a case of dropping the cog in the other way round like on a cc01 front diff. Edited. ..... If you want to add more lock you may need slimmer rims or more offset my 1/10 rims are a nats spud from rubbing on shock bottom mount screw head but if adding camber I think you may just get away with this. Rear camber could be done the stock shafts have plenty of movement even with o rings in the cups removing one would be the worse you have to do two if adding mega camba . You can get hpi drift rims with inner & outer camber on the ring wall an inner tyre they narrow. I was looking at using them if I did turn mine into drift with the camber

Check o ring not making it stick has it lost any oil ? . Maybe worth replacing the spring rating pending how much use it's had remember there only small scale shocks not like buggys etc less oil so won't last as long some run oil some don't . You could also try a good pen spring too

. . . . . . . . . This started as a standard kit , the tailgate is from an original has the kit comes with blank not the ford version . I then added the aftermarket rims as the kit ones didn't do it for me. The body mount on front have been filled again I'm not a fan of big body mounts on show , the rears are used but trimmed right down on the last hole. The big ugly front bumper was used but cut to allow the body bumper to slot into it hence no front mounts. The chrome stacks will be slash cut this was the roll bar I just cut the centre out an turned the bits round. The air filter is two round servo horns from a plane . Any feedback on this would be great I still have no idea where to go next with it as it's just a shelf filler so poss be in the trade rooms or eBay before long as I've to much on with work & other projects so some will go to homes where they will get finished / run like there built for.

http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/forum/95-guides-tutorials/ There's a post in there that shows you how to post up pics. It could be many things crown wheel & pinion not shimmed an caused them to ware out an loose drive or could be clutch not letting it drive or even a grub screw fell out the drive cup on centre shaft to diff output ,But I'm sure we can guide you lol. We all started somewhere so don't worry. Where are you based ?

Put one up of the car bud I'm sure it's the smaller one you have they classed as 1/8 but true scale is 1/10. If that's the case the engine etc will be to small to fit hyper etc . Pull the diff apart you may be able to re file the teeth if they are worn or re shim them to get them closer . We can advise you better then on getting it fixed or best route to take. Just give the car a good once over. Check the cogs on engine clutch bell an the other two they run on make sure there ok ie no missing or chipped teeth .

Post a pic up of your exact car. Yeh You could get a hyper roller cheap or hong nor etc an as you say donor the engine etc over just need to change clutch bell if your on 2 speed

Worth a shot locking it drift it till it goes pop lol. I do have some old carson spares new in pack but I'm sure there for the 1/8th large scale version they did with the 17mm wheel hex an it's only shafts / crown wheel kits etc no internal diffs I'm sure . I do have a full roller to but again it's the larger scale car that has same issue but centre diff . Carson used cheap plastic so they never lasted .

I had one of these new many moons ago under the Gv brand even the shop who sold them new couldn't get the parts in so he broke the last few he had for spares to keep the odd customer happy then sacked the supplier off. Your best bet for spares would be waiting for a second hand one to pop up on eBay but that could be a long wait. Could you not just lock the diff internals with metal or hot glue if that's your issue . Or sell yours off for spares & buy a better branded car second hand .

There not blisters you wanna buy & sts engine then you will know what blisters & cuts are , I can remember me & a savage guru in Leicester breaking in sts engines back when they come out overseas we went mad buying them they was killers blisters even cuts down to the bone they was that tight even after we had heat gun on them but once we had um broke in we had some fun pure nuts in a savage .

An another reason I like the rs over Tt they don't run pbs like thunder tiger so wheels can be a pain if not got the right offset it catches the inner wheel outer edge. Yep the comp plastic exhaust on the rs give less sound to the tin noise on the Tt but guess it could be changed .

& another thing if it's chassis your bending at the front that's why you want to change get upgraded chassis braces that will help more stock ones can be the issue.

The longer chassis is the 7.5 conversion you get longer centre shafts with them too. A lot stronger been a long time since I had mine but guess there is still a few floating the net . There just a straight swop over no messing . Side guards an body still fit the same . There was a full polished milled one too they are again strong & think it had hyper 7 machined into the underside if memory correct been that long .

Rs4 is one of the best nitro touring cars to have been made in its price range IMO , it's shaft drive as said above parts are cheap not that you will need many proven reliable . handling is great don't need any tweaking well I've never had to on any I've had. Good tyres what it's about stock ones grip in all weathers but buy better ones when old ones ware out. I've only ever had the t15 versions an power is great never run the 3.0 version . Any belt drive is going to have issues in the long run ie stones fuel on the belt cogs etc. I've had other nitro tc but always gone back to rs4's

1st thing to do is strip axels & tranny an marine grease them or atleast add some grease they come with little or non. Then remove the front & rear axel guards. Then add fuel tube to the inner shock shafts to lower the cog or hight in easy words lol. Then enjoy an mod as you go wheel weights or old roofing lead if you have some .

Ms had them at 119 prob the cheapest I've seen new in ages . Remember it's the service you get from them too an I'm sure free p&p ?

Bear to think what they will bring out next. Will it have loads of power to leave bear tracks in the mud though? Tamiya I know it's nearly Xmas an it markets to rc for kids but us big kids want a blazing blazer so get on it like a car bonnet not a tractor one . Please bear this in mind mr t & last thing that bear needs a cage it's not safe if he rolls it .

9.00 odd in eBay gaz I know it's dear for what it is maybe drop Antony a message from Tonys store see if he's got one knocking about in his stash an not listed it on the bay, could you not build one from plasticard or use normal Tamiya mounts coming out the side or rear? Or build a steal one .

That's why I said crank sensor 1st point to check these had issues of it yrs ago from cold fine but when hot it's as if crank sensor moves an stops the pickup .

Yep bud I only used wd on mrs old bus cause that's all had to hand at the time I did both plugs on hers just to be safe as the fuel pump imob kept cutting in every now & then it sorted the issue after that. Hers was a common issue on that side of fuse box lucky it wasn't water corrosion like members on the forum I went on had hers was just plug. It's worth a shot trying it to eliminate the issue .

Maybe worth popping on the vauxhall forums too for a good read , some you can do yourself as your using the ecu matched to ignition etc. May save yourself a few quid. Even if he says 40 to 50 notes fitted it's better than going to main dealer or independent specialist I guess. Hope it gets your problem sorted. Did you tell him your issues your having ? He may say its sumut else but Deffo seems ecu . Could just be a dry joint on board . Another thing to check is the main round harness plug to fuse box under the hood un twist it an give it a spray with wd or scrub with old tooth brush lol the pins can get a dry joint too.

Good man it makes sense make sure it's the recycle bin lol. Is the micro not as bad needing parts ? To make that rtr you will be into a better car if you just shop about or do a wanted add? Cheap rtr elec. you can pick up 1/18 rtr for about 40 notes . An they have 2.4 radio battery charger makes more sense to me. But just how I roll lol