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paypal dispute straight up mate. no question about it. sounds like the seller knew what they were doing by having that returns policy setup in the first place.

From what I've read, seller is responsible for the goods until they are received by the buyer. All these people that say on ebay that they are not responsible after goods posted, it's pointless, if they don't turn up then paypal will refund the money anyway. Same applies outside of ebay, seller is responsible to get them to you no matter what they claim. Ownership transfers upon receipt, simple as.

DISCLAMER DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK First off i want to say i have been working on Nitro engines for 10+ years now and i have been doing this process on my engines for about 5 years i have ported and polished a large number of engines in thhe past you will eaisly get another 2+ gallons out of the enigne after this process i will try to walk you through this and yes this really costs £1 to revive a old engine with no compression (providing there is no internal dmg to the pistion/liner/bearings)i normaly replace bearings but thats another "How To" Ok the engine This engine has eaisly seen 5 gallons of fuel and has been a great engine in the time i have owend it but its been thrown in my pit box (after i had put after run in it and sealed it in a plastic bag) i was going to use it for spares but thought i would revive it.. the engine had no compression atall if held up by the flywheel and let drop it woulc do a complete 360 and hit me in the knuckles All you need is a jubaliee clip and a old warn out engine Ok here we go start off with a nice clean(ish) work space Next step is to give your engine a good clean on the exterior take some break cleaner and a toothbrush and give it a nice scrub make sure you block up all the holes (exhaust/carb) ahh nice and clean now start to strip her down first off remove the cooling head then remove the back plate turn the flywheel so the pistion is at BCD then feed a ziptie through the exhaust outlet then out the top of the engine then slowly turn the flywheel dont apply to much pressure and you will see the Liner pop up from the crank case You may need to give it a helping hand out you can use the back end of your toothbrush you used to clean then crank here to push it up from the backplate hole again be very carefull not to ass to much pressure and out it pops Now remove the piston and crank these will pop out very easy although they may need a bit of a push but normaly they will just pop right out So now you have the engine all striped down Once your engine is complety striped its time to clean up the internals normaly after a few gallons of fuel you will have blown some plugs when they blow the element will enter the chamber and because of the extreme heat they will forge to the head button and possibly the top of the pistion we need to remove this and smooth it out. Take your dremel and "carefull" grind away the parts of the element forged on to the button and piston head i must stress a steedy hand and a good eye is needed here once your happy with the result smooth off the head and button and polish it up removing all traces of grinding the parts you should have a result like this ( sorry pics quality isnt very good) Next step is to revive your liner (PINCH) this is where the jubalie clip comes in you need to fit the jubalie clip over the liner and push it up snug to the top of the liner lip then clamp it down so that its nice and tight once the jubalie is in place take your liner to the kitchen hobb make sure the hobb is nice and hot then place the liner on the hobb "as pictured" and let it heat up for 1-2 minutes once the liner is hot (WEAR GLOVES) make a VERY SMALL adjustment to the screw on the Jublie clip quater of a turn will normaly be enough to pinch most engines. Do not remove the clip and let the liner cool down for about 30 minutes then test fit the pistion if the pinch was sucessfull the pistion will be very tight near the top of the liner if it dosent or your not happy with the amount of pinch you have given them repeat the above process untill your happy but normaly quater of a turn is plenty if you got the jubaliie clip nice and tight before you began this process Now you have the liner pinched to how you want it its time to clean up that liner i normaly just use a SOFT rotery wire brush tool in my dremel and slowly remove all the crud off the liner a little tip for this is push a cloth through the liner this gives your something to hold on to when cleaning and polishing. Be sure to pay extra attention to the ports with the soft wire brush tool and remove all resadue once you have done this just buff it up with a soft buffing rotery tool you should end up with the below result Note while i had the engine apart i ported it to give me more power for the engine as you can see in the pics but i wont go in to porting today maybe another time PART 2 COMMING SOON Part 2 After about 5 mins of cleaning up the liner with the rotery wire brush tool its time to polish it up i normaly just use a soft buffing tool with a very small amount of polish this part normaly takes about 15 mins of dilagent polishing taking time in and around the ports especialy the ones i have recetly ground down for improved RPM power her are a few photos of the liner after its been polished and cleaned with motor cleaner Image after using wire brush tool as you can see its starting to look semi deicent Some images of the ported and polished liner this will be a little screamer with all the work i have done to this liner Now its time to rebuild the engine here is a photo of the engine built with the pistion at TDC as you can see it will eaisly push the liner back out of the case due to the pinch thats been put in there i also did a compression test on the engine to make sure there is no drop in pressure at TDC and there was nothing noticable while it was cold so its all looking good When your rebuilding the engine make sure you seal it up properly i use instant gasket around the carb neck as i seat it in and also around the backplate before you seat i in position make sure you let this cure for 24 hours before you use the engine Once you have fully built the engine and let the sealent cure for 24 hours you want to reset your HSN and LSN to defult settings or atleast back off the HSN 1 full turn and begin the break in process again you need to treat this like a new engine if you want it to last as i said above thhere is no reason why this engine if looked after will happily last 2-3 more gallons of fuel and still searve you very well Well there you go took me a while to write all this up i hope you enjoyed the read and it wasent to long winded and thats how you referb a engine for £1 yourself so if your feeling confident have a go on a "OLD KNACKERD" engine rember i have been doing this for a fair few years now but hope this helped here is the engine that would turn a full 360 and not hold a fly let alone its own weight now its nice and tight at TDC and holds its weight and its even a struggle to turn it over by hand almost as good as new (almost) thats a good £1 spent Regards B-Master

Hey Gang, An ongoing effort of RCS Graphic Worx is to provide you the painter and hobbyist the best products and prices we can and since the launch of the RCS range of paints and products we have been continuing to develop them in order to provide a better service for you. I am proud to anounce a new revamped range of the candies which provide a better ease of use/application for the beginner/novice and a better color build. In addition to this there are a few new colors to the range including caramel, smoke/tint, brite blue, brown, midnight and purple lightning. Manufacturing processes will also allow me to drop the price slightly of the unique rc paint, RCS Holographic Ice. As you would expect, we are always trying to create new products for you so keep your eyes peeled. I think the next items will be more stencils that are currently being worked on and should hopefully be out very soon. Get on with the free paint info I can here you saying.... IMPORTANT Well, in an effort to help build the RCS brand so we can continue to provide the best service possible we need you to support your local model shop. This not only will help the RCS brand spread and allow the development of new products for you but will help the the RC scene in general! Support your local hobby shops, doing so allows them to flourish and in turn provide you with a better service, selection, price etc. Right, in order to claim your free sample of RCS Candy paint all you need to do is go into your local model/hobby shop and mention the promotion to them. Give them your name and ask them to contact XFactory UK who will then handle the rest. If you have friends who paint the odd shell then mention it to them too. There is no stopping you going to several local shops if you have them although I cannot guarantee you will receive a different color each time. Offer only available to UK only and while stocks last. Depending on the response I may extend the offer. I will notify you when the offer is closed by posting in this thread to confirm. RCS German distributor covering Germany, Austria and Switzerland will be running a similar offer soon. Thank you for your time and ongoing support. Kind Regards, Jon Miller RCS Graphic Worx

I think I have just got the bargain of the year! 2x traxxas revos. One with a go .28 engine and one with a tm 323 engine in. Both runners but I know nothing about the tm 323 engines? 3x controllers 1 of which is a spektrum dx 3.0. 6x spare wheels, rotostart with battery pack, stick packs, a spare 3.3 running motor. A box of spares ranging from gearboxes to arms to chargers ,aluminium wheelie bar. The list is huge! There's even half a gallon of fuel! All for the sum of

First one is a Tamiya DF02 Gravel Hound http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/58328gravel/index.htm Second one is a Mardave V12. Have a read of the Electric Guide for explanations of various terms like ESC.

Here's my little contribution First off, ShenQi make copies of other cars, but generally there quality is poor. Having had a good go on one of their Baja's I can say there are some things that will be OK and some areas where either their quality control was very bad, or they just use cheap materials. Now...that is not to say they are so bad you should throw them away....it's just good to know what you are dealing with so you don;t expect the car to do more than it can...which is where dispair and grief begin. I owned a Smartech Spider which is a clone of hte FG Marder...same as yours. It had some glaring issues...but is still going strong albeit in a very different guise...and now mostly made up of stock FG parts and custom one off. The main issues are: 1) Plastic quality. You already found that one out the hard way. If you can measure up and put up some pics of the bits you broke, you may well be able to replace them with better quality parts. I reckon there is a very good chance stock FG parts will go on there. That will give you better results as opposed to putting back on parts that will break again. 2) Fixings quality. Bottom end clones tend to get lower quality screws and bolts. These can be prone to corrosion and chewing up of heads. Get some good quality tools when you can and be prepared to replace with better quality ones in areas where you need to. This will make the truck a lot easier to live with long term. 3) Layshaft. Assuming it's anything like my Smartech was, sooner or later your layshaft gear will fall off. Read my review in the kits section on the Smartech Spider ( Winning the Clone Wars) and it shows you what you can do to cure it. You may also find the rear wheel drive squares come loose. Don;t worry..genuine FG's do this too from time to time. All curable. 4) It probably came with a horrid K&N style airfilter on it.....ditch it as soon as you can! In the short term...buy an Outerwear pre-filter cover and put it over the top of it. Longer term, replace with a full HPI kit, Uber Rc filter or stock FG filter setup. All will help your engine live longer. Look on the brightside though...you have NOT been ripped off. You could sell that car on for

Engine mount bolts all tight ? My lads went through 2 spur gears very quick before we noticed all the motor mounts bolts had snapped and it was only the pipe holding the motor on Platic clutch / pinion carrier is suspect on these failures too

+1 AJ we always did that and our engines lasted years also it is best to stick to one brand

Other way round, it's the retailer that sold it to you I forget what disputes you can open but can't you just send it back to the UK address or have you not got one. Talk to ebay/paypal and see what they say. Use the live chat option although good luck in getting a decent answer first time round!

your radio 27/40mhz am/fm? an what are rx's that came with car? once rx is matching spec of radio an have same crystal no. it should work!

Yer post some picture and if there any faults and we shall be able to tell you which Fg part you can replace them with if needed

Smartechs are shoddy machines no matter who you are. Less cheese in a branch of Cheese-R-Us. Maybe ACME's aren't as bad but you have to admit there are good cars out there and bad cars. Don't you always say you get what you pay for in this game badger?

Right then, LET'S STOP THERE with the little bitching comments guys. We aren't here to be correcting anybody on spelling, grammar or punctuation, we are here for RC and that's it. If you can't read somebodys post then it's simple, skim over it. Things like this make me think sod the lot of you I won't bother organising anymore!! If you're like this on the forum nit-picking/bullying/having a go (call it what you will) then this can lead to disruption at bashes which is something we don't want and nor will be tolerated from anybody. We are there for RC and to have a laugh...so m3lyc stop been so pedantic about grammar and luckatme stop winding him up...or am I going to have to bang your heads together at the next bash? As for the 2 a week, that suggestion sort of came from me, reason for this is at the moment we are having some great weather so I plan on making the most of it whether it be at Horbury or Leeds. I am definitely continuing with the Horbury bash site and with a regular monthly thing going. If people want to organise another bash at Leeds (or where ever) then feel free, but please make a new thread about it (this is only due to confusion it may cause). I am planning on getting another bash sorted in the next couple of weeks because I really do want to make the most of the weather, we are after all in England and it could be snowing in a weeks time On another note, what happened after I left? From the gist of things people turned up and started being idiots, if that was the case then the police should have been called after all it was illegal for them to be rallying around on there. If they are idiots then you simply ignore them, don't intimidate them or cause a reaction. There is plenty of room at the site for idiots to be rallying around and for us to run our RC's, if it happens again then just move to other side of the boulders and call the police and let them deal with it, after all they are in the wrong and could seriously injure someone with their silly illegal driving.