HPI Trophy Truggy and Buggy Owners Club!

[robhart84]

 No worriers fella i take it your using good old Mick Charles ?? although the guy never seems to have stock of anything i want and seems a right miserable old bugger he does now his stuff .. Oh and you got Addelstone models the other way tiny but cheap and helpful just on the high street ..Mind you i haven't been there for some time now .. So yes i'm in and around your neck of the woods 

 

Yeah using Mick Charles, originally went in there for a look and then bought a Losi Micro T for the kids (myself ) that then broke and then started to look into a nitro. I drove over to Apex Models and nearly bought a pulse 4.6 but didnt have enough money at the time which im kinda glad because i was then recommended to buy the TT instead. He has been very helpful in there and had all the parts in stock for when i broke the TT on its first outing.

 

@ SteveH:

 

So you've re shimmed and it's made negligible difference with the end position of the CB. hmm.  Have you removed the flywheel?  if not it may pay to do so as there are usually shims behind that too   Mine was second hand and had 2 thicker shims there.

If you have removed the flywheel u would have noticed a Collet that sits behind it on the shaft.  This could easily be a contributing factor too.  As the more u tighten the flywheel nut the further down the fly wheel will sit.

 

I hope that kinda helps ya,. but again pics tell a thousand words an I apologize for not referencing any.  There are however loads of u tube vids on this entire assembly and they are pretty much the same across all nitro models

 

@ robhart84:

 

Please don't be offended by anyones response or lack of .  For the last 2-4 months the only people offering replies were honestly only MyDoddy and myself.  Until 2-3 days ago that is.  Others have either thought best to let some one else reply or didn't know the best response.  now there's a flood of offerings that I must say are warmly welcomed

 

I don't claim to know all the answers as I'm only back in this Hobby for 18 months now after a 20+year gap!  I will say however that I have likely spent more time on my TT than most would even consider.  Why? because I have the time and wanted to set out and make it as strong as possible without spending loads of cash and developing my own albeit stupid little ideas on little mods etc.

 

You asked for upgrades for the TT nitro... Do you have a budget in mind? What are you hoping to achieve?,.--speed?,strength?. handling?, reliability? a combination?  from there not only I but we can provide you with our recommendations.

 

I will add that depending on how your truck is setup: camber shock positions, diffs etc. etc. will alter where "weak points" develop.

 

The most common and annoying part on the trophy/lightning imo is the Steering knuckles.  There are solutions but imo this part is best upgraded to alloy from asiatees (because they are affordable ~21 US)  the original ones however aren't!

If u are interested in other parts from the Trophy Buggy (TB) on asiatees just post a quick q with linkie.  Most fit, but there are exceptions (and mods )

 

I have had mine installed with well over 20hrs runtime on 5s lipo without the slightest sign of faliure!

 

I hope that kinda helps ya a bit.

 

Thanks for your response. I don't want to spend a stupid amount of money but would be happy to spend up to 150-200 on upgrades. the only problems i have seen for the TT so far are the servos and the brakes, the servos don't seem to be very smooth at all and the brakes work one minute and not the next although after rebuilding it i have IMO set it up properly so will give it another go. Basically i'd just like it to be able to take a few knocks whilst maintaining most or all of its performance. I've seen some mods that maybe just cosmetic but I've seen some carbon fiber stuff and the purple alloy bits that i think looks pretty sweet as well as a polished exhaust http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/91845-hpi-trophy-truggy-and-buggy-owners-club/?p=854374 don't want to just copy the link but it does look nice. any way, i do need to do a lot more reading but any general pointers would be very much appreciated.

 

Thanks in advance

[Deafty]

• pipe:  Jp4 4 or JP series of pipes are great check the nitro section for more info but costly!  worthy upgrade but perhaps for later,.then u can do all of the below
• Servos: everyone goes Sav

Edited October 24, 2013 by Deafty

[Blockzzz]

Hi.

Can i post pics from my phone? I'll be damned if i could figure it out earlier.

I tried setting my idle speed today as it revved like crazy when i first started it up. Turning the screw didnt seem to make any adjustments visibily so i ended up undoing the grub screw at the end of the arm that links the servo to the carb. This allowed me to adjust the opening and tightening the screw locked it in place. Is this a normal thing? I didnt have a lot of time to play today so was only messing really. I realise i am supposed to set the hsn first but as the car was trying to disappear upon starting i needed to do something to prevent that first.

Cheers.

[boombox]

Hi.

Can i post pics from my phone? I'll be damned if i could figure it out earlier.

I tried setting my idle speed today as it revved like crazy when i first started it up. Turning the screw didnt seem to make any adjustments visibily so i ended up undoing the grub screw at the end of the arm that links the servo to the carb. This allowed me to adjust the opening and tightening the screw locked it in place. Is this a normal thing? I didnt have a lot of time to play today so was only messing really. I realise i am supposed to set the hsn first but as the car was trying to disappear upon starting i needed to do something to prevent that first.

Cheers.

Before you start your engine, have your electrics on, and adjust the Throttle trim on the controller

Edited October 24, 2013 by boombox

[boombox]

Ive installed this new servo ( For steering ) into my TT4.6 however when turning the wheels left the servo seems to shudder eraticly but its fine when turning right it doesnt shudder, it also shudders when brakes are applied which i have no idea why, ive tried playing around with the servo end points and the same thing happens. i also noticed that when turning the wheels it interferes with my throttle servo(servo arm moves a bit) somehow and my carb opens about 1mm extra. also the servo connectors are 100% in the right slots on the radio gear.

 

further info : ive moved the stock steering servo over to the throttle and using fresh batteries

 

any ideas?

Edited October 24, 2013 by boombox

[Blockzzz]

Ta.

 

2 more then hopefully i wont be asking the obvious anymore.

When i squeeze my trigger, ie towards the controller handle, the 1mm carb gap gets smaller, the gap gets bigger when i push away. This is the wrong way right? Bigger gap for more power?

The battery pack has 1 lead with a red connection, this goes onto the receiver. How does the battery pack connect to the car to enable the on/off switch to operate? I am missing something obvious i know!

 

Cheers

[boombox]

Ta.

 

2 more then hopefully i wont be asking the obvious anymore.

When i squeeze my trigger, ie towards the controller handle, the 1mm carb gap gets smaller, the gap gets bigger when i push away. This is the wrong way right? Bigger gap for more power?

The battery pack has 1 lead with a red connection, this goes onto the receiver. How does the battery pack connect to the car to enable the on/off switch to operate? I am missing something obvious i know!

 

Cheers

1. Yup your right, to sort the reverse trigger change the CH.2 switch to N you can find the switches at the front of the controller (under antenna)

 

2. inside your battery box there should be another little cable sticking out with a female "red connector",  your battery pack just clips into that (well thats how it is for my 4.6) .. i think you was plugging the battery pack straight onto the actual reciever box :|

Edited October 24, 2013 by boombox

[Blockzzz]

Thank you mate.

[Deafty]

Hi.

I tried setting my idle speed today as it revved like crazy when i first started it up. Turning the screw didnt seem to make any adjustments visibily so i ended up undoing the grub screw at the end of the arm that links the servo to the carb. This allowed me to adjust the opening and tightening the screw locked it in place. Is this a normal thing? I didnt have a lot of time to play today so was only messing really. I realise i am supposed to set the hsn first but as the car was trying to disappear upon starting i needed to do something to prevent that first.

Cheers.

Yes that is unfortunately common from stock box setup.  This actually throws a lot of people off when setting the idle.  You have effectively extended the linkage so the servo isn't holding back the carb from closing.  Smart move mate

 

Before you start your engine, have your electrics on, and adjust the Throttle trim on the controller

Not sure what u mean by that,.Always run your model with zero throttle trim! or at specified trim for your linkage. never change this.  But when starting from cold, you can increase the trim (open carb some) to get her started, just note that the carb will close to "set position" when you apply the brakes; meaning the engine may stall which means you don't have breaks till the trim is returned to your "set position

 

Ive installed this new servo ( For steering ) into my TT4.6 however when turning the wheels left the servo seems to shudder eraticly but its fine when turning right it doesnt shudder, it also shudders when brakes are applied which i have no idea why, ive tried playing around with the servo end points and the same thing happens. i also noticed that when turning the wheels it interferes with my throttle servo(servo arm moves a bit) somehow and my carb opens about 1mm extra. also the servo connectors are 100% in the right slots on the radio gear.

 

further info : ive moved the stock steering servo over to the throttle and using fresh batteries

 

any ideas?

Sounds like interference of some sort bud.  Have you tried with just one servo connected?  Do you have another rx to try?  Perhaps bench test or ensure rx aerial cable aint near metal.

[Blockzzz]

Ty

Regarding connecting my battery pack to the car. I cant see how to do it. Looking at my receiver box i have 2 servo wires going into the front. But at the back where the switch is, i only have these 3 wires. No red connector to fasten to my battery pack. Any ideas please?

Ta

[Blockzzz]

I think previous owner did some mods. But the above wires are all the same as the servo wires. So either he changed them all or they could all be hpi wires. (red, black and orange i think). The steering servo is a savox so whether they come with wires when bought i dont know.

[Blockzzz]

I realise i have to connect my batteries to the car, then the car (or more accurately the on/off switch) to the servo. I just cant see how the connections i have make this doable

[Blockzzz]

Oh and for further info, i am awaiting delivery of tx/rx i bought off here. This comes from a hpi 4.6 truggy and is 2.4ghz so do these have different connectors? This could explain why the wire from the switch to servo is diff to what i expected. Still cant work out how to connect battery to car tho.

Sorry to go on.

Ty all.

[Timmy Large Scale]

Erm..... Houston, we have a problem!

 

So my car will not start, at all, not even close!

 

Checked my glow starter and all is good there, lights up the glow plug no problem, checked the glow plug, also no problem. 

 

Last time I ran I ended up upside down in a puddle at which point I called it a day, so it has no run since then. 

 

The air filter was soaked through so is there a possibility water is in my engine?

 

Also the pull start seems to slip every 2-3 pulls but otherwise is perfectly normal, could this be the issue?

 

Cheers guys.

[Steve-H]

There's a few things you need to fit the ZR30, you need to mod the engine mount a little you can go about it a couple of ways 1st just use some 3mm aluminium flat bar to make up some spacers to sit on top of engine mount to raise up the motor as the big block 30 is a tall motor! 2nd you can buy all new motor mounts and motor mount plates ( mine are from king headz in the USA )

You also need a clutch and clutch bell I used the LRP 3 shoe race clutch and bell with stock gearing you also need new exaust it seams a lot but you'll love it once it's done!

I use the zr30 spec2 motor and it's fast really fast and really reliable holds it tune well and east to tune!

I can post a couple of pics or any other info on the convertion if you need it

Cheers for the info buddy that does seem a lot to do so I may make the zr30 a side project until after Christmas lol

[Steve-H]

@ SteveH:

 

So you've re shimmed and it's made negligible difference with the end position of the CB. hmm.  Have you removed the flywheel?  if not it may pay to do so as there are usually shims behind that too   Mine was second hand and had 2 thicker shims there.

If you have removed the flywheel u would have noticed a Collet that sits behind it on the shaft.  This could easily be a contributing factor too.  As the more u tighten the flywheel nut the further down the fly wheel will sit.

 

I hope that kinda helps ya,. but again pics tell a thousand words an I apologize for not referencing any.  There are however loads of u tube vids on this entire assembly and they are pretty much the same across all nitro models

 

@ robhart84:

 

Please don't be offended by anyones response or lack of .  For the last 2-4 months the only people offering replies were honestly only MyDoddy and myself.  Until 2-3 days ago that is.  Others have either thought best to let some one else reply or didn't know the best response.  now there's a flood of offerings that I must say are warmly welcomed

 

I don't claim to know all the answers as I'm only back in this Hobby for 18 months now after a 20+year gap!  I will say however that I have likely spent more time on my TT than most would even consider.  Why? because I have the time and wanted to set out and make it as strong as possible without spending loads of cash and developing my own albeit stupid little ideas on little mods etc.

 

You asked for upgrades for the TT nitro... Do you have a budget in mind? What are you hoping to achieve?,.--speed?,strength?. handling?, reliability? a combination?  from there not only I but we can provide you with our recommendations.

 

I will add that depending on how your truck is setup: camber shock positions, diffs etc. etc. will alter where "weak points" develop.

 

The most common and annoying part on the trophy/lightning imo is the Steering knuckles.  There are solutions but imo this part is best upgraded to alloy from asiatees (because they are affordable ~21 US)  the original ones however aren't!

If u are interested in other parts from the Trophy Buggy (TB) on asiatees just post a quick q with linkie.  Most fit, but there are exceptions (and mods )

 

I have had mine installed with well over 20hrs runtime on 5s lipo without the slightest sign of faliure!  

 

I hope that kinda helps ya a bit.

I'm waiting for my Lodi clutch removing tool so I can take it apart again and see what's what

[Steve-H]

Just bought some titanium steering turnbuckles and camber turnbuckles

Also as money is a bit tight atm I decided against big bores for now and bought some TiNi suspension shafts instead hope they fit lol

What weight shock oil should I use on the rebuild guys?

[mydoddy69]

Ty

Regarding connecting my battery pack to the car. I cant see how to do it. Looking at my receiver box i have 2 servo wires going into the front. But at the back where the switch is, i only have these 3 wires. No red connector to fasten to my battery pack. Any ideas please?

Ta

 

That looks like you have 2 male ends and a female end ??

 

I'll try to answer this best i can so follow real close 

 

Do you have an on/off switch??

 

Lets say yes and hopefully it's like this 

 

Your battery pack is like this 

 

Now take the lead from the hump pack and plug it into the the part of the switch it fits then the end of the switch you have left goes into the rx that's it 

 

Your servo wires go into the corresponding input slot on the rx channel 1 for steering and channel 2 for throttle the switch wire can go in any spare one you may have a sero extension wire added to the on/off switch and thats why it has the 3 wires just trace it all back and your bound to sort it out 

 

 

Erm..... Houston, we have a problem!

 

So my car will not start, at all, not even close!

 

Checked my glow starter and all is good there, lights up the glow plug no problem, checked the glow plug, also no problem. 

 

Last time I ran I ended up upside down in a puddle at which point I called it a day, so it has no run since then. 

 

The air filter was soaked through so is there a possibility water is in my engine?

 

Also the pull start seems to slip every 2-3 pulls but otherwise is perfectly normal, could this be the issue?

 

Cheers guys.

 Water and nitro engines are a big fat no and never just leave them sat in any form of moisture.. Looking like a good strip down and rebuild for you there fella 

[mydoddy69]

Just bought some titanium steering turnbuckles and camber turnbuckles

Also as money is a bit tight atm I decided against big bores for now and bought some TiNi suspension shafts instead hope they fit lol

What weight shock oil should I use on the rebuild guys?

If your on a tight budget 40wt all round is always a good start 

[Steve-H]

If your on a tight budget 40wt all round is always a good start

Thanks again buddy

I found the edit titanium shafts on eBay for

[Timmy Large Scale]

That looks like you have 2 male ends and a female end ??

I'll try to answer this best i can so follow real close

Do you have an on/off switch??

Lets say yes and hopefully it's like this

Your battery pack is like this

Now take the lead from the hump pack and plug it into the the part of the switch it fits then the end of the switch you have left goes into the rx that's it

Your servo wires go into the corresponding input slot on the rx channel 1 for steering and channel 2 for throttle the switch wire can go in any spare one you may have a sero extension wire added to the on/off switch and thats why it has the 3 wires just trace it all back and your bound to sort it out

Water and nitro engines are a big fat no and never just leave them sat in any form of moisture.. Looking like a good strip down and rebuild for you there fella

I am hoping this is fairly straight forward? Case of drying it off, cleaning and then doing the run in process again?

[Timmy Large Scale]

That looks like you have 2 male ends and a female end ??

I'll try to answer this best i can so follow real close

Do you have an on/off switch??

Lets say yes and hopefully it's like this

Your battery pack is like this

Now take the lead from the hump pack and plug it into the the part of the switch it fits then the end of the switch you have left goes into the rx that's it

Your servo wires go into the corresponding input slot on the rx channel 1 for steering and channel 2 for throttle the switch wire can go in any spare one you may have a sero extension wire added to the on/off switch and thats why it has the 3 wires just trace it all back and your bound to sort it out

Water and nitro engines are a big fat no and never just leave them sat in any form of moisture.. Looking like a good strip down and rebuild for you there fella

I am hoping this is fairly straight forward? Case of drying it off, cleaning and then doing the run in process again?

That looks like you have 2 male ends and a female end ??

I'll try to answer this best i can so follow real close

Do you have an on/off switch??

Lets say yes and hopefully it's like this

Your battery pack is like this

Now take the lead from the hump pack and plug it into the the part of the switch it fits then the end of the switch you have left goes into the rx that's it

Your servo wires go into the corresponding input slot on the rx channel 1 for steering and channel 2 for throttle the switch wire can go in any spare one you may have a sero extension wire added to the on/off switch and thats why it has the 3 wires just trace it all back and your bound to sort it out

Water and nitro engines are a big fat no and never just leave them sat in any form of moisture.. Looking like a good strip down and rebuild for you there fella

I am hoping this is fairly straight forward? Case of drying it off, cleaning and then doing the run in process again?

[Blockzzz]

Thanks MrDoddy.

The car didnt come with a hump pack and the standard battery holder case has a 2 pin red male connector, i expected a female red connector for this to plug into. I think the previous owner maybe used a hump pack and changed the switch. Ordered a hump pack now so i will hopefully be able to work it out when that arrives.

Cheers

[mydoddy69]

You can buy extension leads with all types of ends on i'm guessing from what your saying one of these would have worked 

 

[Timmy Large Scale]

Right, thats the engine going again, now all I have to do is tune the damn thing, I need to go out now but I was doing it and it kept on stalling at full revs, cant remember which screw does what, should I go back to factory settings and start over?