Zannu Posted January 15, 2017 Share Posted January 15, 2017 Hi Guy's I have just bought a schumacher gt12, without an esc. It has a 1s Lipo with it, and a brushed motor. Does anyone know if there is a good esc that runs off 1s and is for a brushed motor, or should I just take the plunge and get a brushless system (13.5t motor and 1s esc). Also, if anyone has any other advice for GT12 racing that would be appreciated, as I have not really raced before, and am thinking of starting to with the Schumacher. Many thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dark Knight Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 Is it the original Supastox you have? Or the newer GT or the latest Atom? Is this your first time getting into the racing side the hobby? If so, it's worth popping down to your local clubs to see what run. Some of the members may even have some suitable electrics for sale. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zannu Posted January 19, 2017 Author Share Posted January 19, 2017 I think it is an original, but not quite sure. What are the easy to tell differences between the cars? I am going to try to pop down sometime soon, as it is my first time in on road racing, and any competitive racing. Thanks Matthew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zannu Posted January 21, 2017 Author Share Posted January 21, 2017 (edited) So, today I got the car, and the first thing I did was take it all apart. Seem's illogical, but I like doing that, as when it is a new chassis that I am unfamiliar, nothing gets you a bit used to it, like a complete rebuild, and then you can make sure you are happy with everything, and understand how different adjustments affect the performance, rather than just going off what the book told you. Here was the pile of bit's: Spent a few hours putting everything together, and now I am pretty happy with the chassis, just waiting for the ESC and a battery connector to arrive (hopefully by next Wednesday)and then I should be up and running. Not sure when I will be able to make it to my local track, but I will keep updating here as I learn the basics, and hopefully help out some other people wanting to get into gt-12 racing, as I currently do. Here is the finished chassis, tomorrow I might be able to get a shot of the body mounted. If you guys are experienced and have any tips for a beginner like me I would love to hear them. Many thanks for looking. Matthew Edited July 2, 2017 by Zannu Photo links (Photobucket) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daveyb84 Posted January 22, 2017 Share Posted January 22, 2017 I'd move the rear springs from the middle to the outer edges. I just put it back to box stock for you. Looking good thoughSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zannu Posted January 22, 2017 Author Share Posted January 22, 2017 (edited) Ok, I think I will give it a quick go as it is now, but will probably do that before I start actually racing with it. Really just want to have a bit of a play, and start to understand what the different tuning does, and get used to the on road handling. I also built it according to the manual, but will try different adjustments and find the best once running. so Only played with 1/10 off road truggies and a crawler before, so the addition of on-road will be a little different. Still waiting for the ESC, and a battery connector, but should be running soon. Also, I must say that body looks really good, much better in real life than the photo's show. I tried to catch it in better light, but does not do it justice. It is that shade of purple all over and changes depensing on the light you look at it in: Edited July 2, 2017 by Zannu Photo links (Photobucket) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dark Knight Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 Looking great For setup, as Dave has advised, yellow springs in the outer position at the rear. For the front, either green or blue springs if you have them. Set the ride height 3.5mm and you're good to go. If not already done, it's worth running glue around the edges of the front tyres which really helps prevent grip roll. Make sure you're at the min weight limit of 950g. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dark Knight Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 Looking great For setup, as Dave has advised, yellow springs in the outer position at the rear. For the front, either green or blue springs if you have them. Set the ride height 3.5mm and you're good to go. If not already done, it's worth running glue around the edges of the front tyres which really helps prevent grip roll. Make sure you're at the min weight limit of 950g. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zannu Posted January 26, 2017 Author Share Posted January 26, 2017 Ok, I have the spring kit, so will adjust that the next time I work on it. Not really looked at the ride height too much, just focussed on getting all the electronics in and working. I have only had a small test, along our landing, however the steering seemed very twitchy, and it would not go straight, even when adjusting the trim. I think the toe might be wrong, however tried adjusting it to stock, and both ways, however never seemed to make much difference. The only thing I could think of would be ackerman needing changing, or if I was throttling too quickly and wheel spinning, but seemed to suddenly change directions like the toe was out. Any idea's how to solve this. I will not be able to get a video over the weekend, but if I have not solved it by mid next week I should be able to get a vid up. I will try running glue around the edges, and see how much difference that makes. Thanks for your help, really appreciated. And if someone can tell me how to use photobucket to add photos here, and can get some more up. Many thanks Matthew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dark Knight Posted January 27, 2017 Share Posted January 27, 2017 Is it darting off to one side when you start off? First check if your diff is slipping. Then adjust the rear spring tension by tightening/loosening the lock nut. It doesn't take much movement to adjust them, a 1/8 of a turn will be fine. If it's going off to the left, tighten the right nut. If it's going off to the right, tighten the left nut. By doing this, you are adjusting the balance of the car. Another thing worth checking, is the front wheel nuts, you don't need tighten these right up. Just enough to take the side play away. Make sure the front wheel spin freely before/after each run. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daveyb84 Posted January 27, 2017 Share Posted January 27, 2017 Also it might be because the left tyre is slightly lower than the other, that can affect it too. Our track has more left hand bends than right so I'm wondering if ones worn down more. As the dark knight says, adjust the springs so the right height is the same as it may be lower one side and check the diff, it might be a bit loose from when I relubricated it for you. Also check the corner weight by taking the tyres off the ground, putting a 20p on each tyre, if one falls faster than the other, adjust it slightly Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zannu Posted January 28, 2017 Author Share Posted January 28, 2017 (edited) I think this is a few photos of the electronics with it ready to run. About to have a look at the handling issue, and alter the springs and positions. I have a HPI flux 13.5t sensored motor, and Hobbywing V2.1 ESC, 1s 7000Mah LiPo, Core RC servo and a Spextrum sr300 receiver. Before going in: Motor and ESC soldered together: Everything in and ready to test: Edited July 2, 2017 by Zannu Photo links (Photobucket) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daveyb84 Posted January 28, 2017 Share Posted January 28, 2017 Looks great with all the electrics in. I hope you manage to get the handling sorted. It won't be anything serious, just a fine tuning required. One other thing, i would use small cable ties to tidy up the flapping cables, you don't want these wrapping round a wheel or going under the car, it may make the car stop by unplugging something or even worse, damage something. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zannu Posted January 28, 2017 Author Share Posted January 28, 2017 Yeah, I am going to. Also, any ideas on how to Secure the ESC down. I tried double sided sticky tape, but it did not seem to hold very well, and quickly came off. Is there an alternative, or certain brand that people know work very well? Altered the springs now, the rear is set to the outer holes, with blue O-rings and yellow springs, the front also has blue O-rings and blue springs. All the corners of the car are around 3.5mm off the ground(To the bottom of the chassis, I assumed that was the ride height). Tightned the diff a tad, so that should not be spinning. Adjusted the front wheels so the nuts are as tight as they can go allowing the wheels to spin freely. Still weaving a bit. It is not that it is turning to one side, more even keeping a steady speed and no steering wobbles a bit side to side. I am only testing at relitivley low speeds (Less than 1/2 throttle) so is this normal and going to sort itself out at mroe speed, or should I keep adjusting to get a more stable car. Thanks for your continued help. Matthew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zannu Posted January 29, 2017 Author Share Posted January 29, 2017 I might have found the problem. I had been setting the ride height on my floor, which is plastic tiles. Today I had a look and when I was running on the carpet of our landing for a test, I believe the chassis was rubbing on the floor. I adjusted it so that when the car was sat ont he carpet the chassis was 3.5 to 4 mm above the ground, and the handling seems a lot better. There still seem's to be a bit of wobble, which I think may be the front wheels wobbling, or the toe not quite being correct. How much toe would you reccomend? I think the manual says to try and get 0, however with the link length they suggest, there is a bit of toe out. I will keep playing a bit, and let you know what works. Thanks Matthew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.