Need some info help on what battery for 1:18 associated mt

[Callum22]

Hi all, I'm after buying a couple of batteries for my associated 18mt, brushless set up. Wanting to know what half decent batteries I should use. Needing them to last a good 5 minutes. Maybe lipo, any suggestions as I don't know what's good on the market and what's not. As I'm new to 1:18. Cheers

[evssv]

Well u need to b looking on hobbyking for them. ...they will have every shape size lipo u can want. ..and the exact sizes of each and every lipo they sell. so as long as u know the size of ur lipo tray box ect jobs a good un! !buy the biggest mah c rating ect u can afford...5 mins!...I get around 30 mins runtime if not more in my losi miniT with a 1600mh 2s lipo. ...I get bored before the lipos used..lol!!

Edited September 12, 2015 by evssv

[quakebo]

I have 4x Vampire LIPO - 2000mah - 50C hardcase 7.4 volt mini stick battery pack for my rc18t and rc18b and they are great and with a brushless 4200kv motor you get at least 45min run time on one lipo in my rc18t.  I also have a 5200kv in the rc18b and if I want to go really fast I put the 8200kv motor in.;)

Edited December 5, 2015 by quakebo

[Tamiyacowboy]

Stick with a 2s lipo, your looking for a shorty compact 7.4v lipo battery. 
as for capacity around the 2000mah to 2200mah will be fine.

motor upgrade, if your wanting just pure straight line speed, you will fit a 8000kv+ rated brushless and upgrade the esc to a racing esc (1/10th scale esc).
if you can find a 3s battery to fit inside the rc18MT , it will fly along but thats just a straight line. any type of steering will see the machine cartwheel.
with 3s your throwing 11.1v into that machine and abusing it WILL destroy the rear diffs and the output cups on the rear diffs. i will eat the spur up and spit it out toothless. and it will skin those tyres in seconds.

6800kv is a good ball park for a awesome speed but still have the handling you will need.

Tyre choice : semi slick carpet tyres for indoor running , hard grip surface for straight line drag racing go with foam tyres . 
street racing, grab a few sets of onroad tyres. 

Steering, the stock plastic steering will be a tad loose and slack with plenty of play, so the upgrade here is metal steering and adjustable link rods.
same goes for each four corners, you want adjustable tie rods so you can setup the chassis to carry that speed and have control.

TIPS 101. 

the drive output cups ( the dogbones slide into these and then into the rear and front diffs) the cups can expand under a more grunt motor or an upgrade to voltage.
to get around this you can use brass compression rings found in the local hardware store ( used to hold metal brake lines inside the capture nuts) glue one of these around the outside of your diff cup ( slip it over the diff cup and add a tiny drop of superglue to hold it in place. it will stop the cups expanding and the dogbones falling out.

Metal shims: if you hear a clicking sound from the gearbox its slipping (rear diff does this) you want to strip out the rear diff and add on the output shaft before its put back in and the bearings fitted, this makes those diff gears push together and bite more with less slipping and clicking from slip).