BASHER PROOF Rc Bodys !

[Tamiyacowboy]

 

 

so yeah the above video give you what you want. 

 

you can use old shells or new ones but to remove it from the glass fiber will end up with it being destroyed. 

 

Using chemicals for glassing is dangerous and highly reactive, please as in video have your father / uncle / grandad

help you make a bullet proof body,  you need to use much care and the work must be fast and efficent to get the best result.

 

glass fiber come in differing thickness weave so you can decide on ultimate weight and strength using a much finer

glass. use a two part resin and always glove up, run in a well open vented area and protect eyes and skin.

[Tamiyacowboy]

 

 

 

 Part two, 

 

now your first layer is most important, your second is a locking layer and third as mentioned is a if you missed a bit.

we can lay larger sheets but it is a lot harder to work corners and you end up with creases and mountains. 

 

 

 

light glass - medium glass - heavy glass 

micro rc    - normal rc        - large scale rc 

 

epoxy wise go with a 30m cure ( that means 30 mins before it starts to cure hard and none workable ), you can go with 60m 

but its a chore and its not as good, the best is 15m cure but thats way to fast for your needs so stick to 30m -60m 

Edited March 6, 2015 by Tamiyacowboy

[arogon1235]

i found that 2 layers is just about good enough but 3 is the way to go, i did this to by speed car body and it worked great, survived all of the flips and crashes i had but the actual original body shell didn't, it does add quite a bit of weight though but i applied lots of resin so that is probably why. 

[Tamiyacowboy]

Yes also notice where he rubs the nice clear shiney body outer all over the resin on the bench top. 

 

a more simpler way is glass and resin inside the body work and not on bench.

lay a dry sheet large piece of cloth into shell . take your brush loaded ( but not dripping laoded ) with resin

and dab it on the glass to wet it ( in body work shops this is how we would glass up, not using workbench top.

 

a small roller helps to, the little roller will force air out and the resin into weave. 

from Boats to F1 cars to gliders, we tend to lay into the mould and use a roller to get everything wetted up and laying flat without air pockets

 

release agent, im unsure on its impact with lexan so it would need testing first,

coating the internal with a release agent will help the fiber shell come away from the lexan shell.

 

jel coating : you would release agent the shell then jel coat the shell, then the final would be the layering of resin glass.

when released your jel coat would be the finish coat a very smooth high shine surface ( mainly used in boat hulls)

Edited March 7, 2015 by Tamiyacowboy