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FTX Vantage/Carnage owners Thread


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So far..I've not really had any issues with the strength of the FTX..I don't really bash hard..my main issue is with shell strength. But at the moment, the shell will need to be in pieces before I buy another one. 

 

I've already re-enforced it..but they are still so brittle when it comes to jumps and bad landings.

 

Cheers

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Conscious that I'm not really aware of what the slipper gaskets are for, how do you tension up the rear end?

 

Just to explain, I'm changing the spur gear to a hardened steel one and you have to disassemble the slipper assembly. Last time I did it, I just tightened up the nut onto the slipper spring with no idea on what tension I needed.

 

Just recently I think I'm getting slip suggesting its not tight enough?

 

Can some one explain pls?

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24 minutes ago, V8Guitar said:

Conscious that I'm not really aware of what the slipper gaskets are for, how do you tension up the rear end?

 

Just to explain, I'm changing the spur gear to a hardened steel one and you have to disassemble the slipper assembly. Last time I did it, I just tightened up the nut onto the slipper spring with no idea on what tension I needed.

 

Just recently I think I'm getting slip suggesting its not tight enough?

 

Can some one explain pls?

The slipper clutch turns mechanical energy in to heat energy. A shock to the drivetrain can be damaging to the weakest link within. The slipper clutch is put in place to help dampen these shocks.

some on here tighten their nut all the way, then loosen just a quarter turn. Personally I measured from the end of the exposed thread to the start of the nut (approx 12mm) as was set from the shop and have always stuck to this method with no problems.

if you have had excessive slipping, I would recommend replacing the pads as you replace the spur.

 

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20 minutes ago, Ant.p said:

The slipper clutch turns mechanical energy in to heat energy. A shock to the drivetrain can be damaging to the weakest link within. The slipper clutch is put in place to help dampen these shocks.

some on here tighten their nut all the way, then loosen just a quarter turn. Personally I measured from the end of the exposed thread to the start of the nut (approx 12mm) as was set from the shop and have always stuck to this method with no problems.

if you have had excessive slipping, I would recommend replacing the pads as you replace the spur.

 

Perfect! Thank you and yes I have bought  new pads 🙂

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3 hours ago, V8Guitar said:

Perfect! Thank you and yes I have bought  new pads 🙂

No worries, glad it helped 👍🏻

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14 hours ago, vimto2000 said:

What is a good fixing table for the FTX Carnage? 


Want something cheap but sturdy which holds it tight. 


Thanks

I jus use a tub of heros lifts it enough an storage for everything lol 

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lol at the moment I'm using a bunch of tyres...but wondered what else people are using. 
 

Once I get my garage sorted, I was thinking of something a bit more studier and balanced.

 

I might just make one out of wood lol 🙂

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Fitted a new diff yesterday, seems a bit stiff.. anyone else had problems with after fittin a new diff? Also is there any upgraded spur and pinion for the diffs? Have a feeling I'm gona destroy alot more of the standard ones. And for those interested in the chassis brace on ebay., They 3d printed not best quality and don't come with longer screws to fit so kinda pointless unless u have some spare screws, will post pics up later of it 

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Diffs should drop right in, same diff housing used across the ftx 1/10 range, could the spur pinion be hitting the diff housing, to much grease, should run free without the pinion does it?, are the bearings good, to many shims?
There are "hardened" diffs spurs for the ftx range, on ebay however i have heard they are not actually that hard and didnt last long on 6s (way over kill anyway)
I run 4s through ftx diffs and have not had one fail yet. Unless your going from full pelt to instant stops they shouldnt fail. You can try hardening some yourself too.

Edited by Redback
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1 hour ago, Redback said:

Diffs should drop right in, same diff housing used across the ftx 1/10 range, could the spur pinion be hitting the diff housing, to much grease, should run free without the pinion does it?, are the bearings good, to many shims?
There are "hardened" diffs spurs for the ftx range, on ebay however i have heard they are not actually that hard and didnt last long on 6s (way over kill anyway)
I run 4s through ftx diffs and have not had one fail yet. Unless your going from full pelt to instant stops they shouldnt fail. You can try hardening some yourself too.

Interesting, does the hardening process you mention involve a blow torch?

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21 hours ago, vimto2000 said:

What is a good fixing table for the FTX Carnage? 


Want something cheap but sturdy which holds it tight. 


Thanks

I use a fasttrax rc stand. Works well, but doesn’t hold or clamp the model into position.

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/34480?gclid=CjwKCAjw0qOIBhBhEiwAyvVcf61DtGE8xQb4YeaFkLEMFTPvn-1a2bD1RUc3EZtapqmD4xjRz0OoRhoCmvIQAvD_BwE

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4 hours ago, Redback said:

Diffs should drop right in, same diff housing used across the ftx 1/10 range, could the spur pinion be hitting the diff housing, to much grease, should run free without the pinion does it?, are the bearings good, to many shims?
There are "hardened" diffs spurs for the ftx range, on ebay however i have heard they are not actually that hard and didnt last long on 6s (way over kill anyway)
I run 4s through ftx diffs and have not had one fail yet. Unless your going from full pelt to instant stops they shouldnt fail. You can try hardening some yourself too.

Yes diffs move freely, not over greased, brand new sealed bearings, jus once it's installed the wheels don't move that freely as if there's sumin wrong inside the diff casing, even put everything into the old housing an still does it, gona try an remove the spur an pinion an use the stock parts as might be the center shaft maybe!?  only run 3s but now u mention it I have had a few times where iv stopped dead as to not crash into a xmaxx at full speed or an kraton 6s at full speed. 

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15 minutes ago, Madmoz7610 said:

Yes diffs move freely, not over greased, brand new sealed bearings, jus once it's installed the wheels don't move that freely as if there's sumin wrong inside the diff casing, even put everything into the old housing an still does it, gona try an remove the spur an pinion an use the stock parts as might be the center shaft maybe!?  only run 3s but now u mention it I have had a few times where iv stopped dead as to not crash into a xmaxx at full speed or an kraton 6s at full speed. 

Are the drive cup seated right, the orings arnt binding, but as you say its brand new so should be fine, maybe its a drive shaft putting pressure on one side? did you shim it on the correct side?

2 hours ago, Ant.p said:

Interesting, does the hardening process you mention involve a blow torch?

Well i stuck mine on a gas burner for 10 min to 400c and did it a couple of times, time will tell, a mate also hardened some for his 116mph banzai, his are stronger than the ebay ones.

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9 hours ago, vimto2000 said:

lol at the moment I'm using a bunch of tyres...but wondered what else people are using. 
 

Once I get my garage sorted, I was thinking of something a bit more studier and balanced.

 

I might just make one out of wood lol 🙂

I bought a cheap turntable off ebay a around £10 think it was  and its turns to adjust the hight wheels off the table  also can lock it in one place  also has a magnetic strip to hold screws on and comes in diffrent colours too . I recommend it . . 

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7 hours ago, Redback said:

Well i stuck mine on a gas burner for 10 min to 400c and did it a couple of times, time will tell, a mate also hardened some for his 116mph banzai, his are stronger than the ebay ones.

Can’t hurt trying. Is there a fair way of comparing original to heat treated at home? Putting the gears straight into the diff will just leave you guessing, but if it lasts longer than unhardened that’s proof enough without getting too scientific.

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9 hours ago, Iain .R said:

I bought a cheap turntable off ebay a around £10 think it was  and its turns to adjust the hight wheels off the table  also can lock it in one place  also has a magnetic strip to hold screws on and comes in diffrent colours too . I recommend it . . 

 

That sounds great for what I need and fits my budget!!

 

15 hours ago, Madmoz7610 said:

Fitted a new diff yesterday, seems a bit stiff.. anyone else had problems with after fittin a new diff? Also is there any upgraded spur and pinion for the diffs? Have a feeling I'm gona destroy alot more of the standard ones. And for those interested in the chassis brace on ebay., They 3d printed not best quality and don't come with longer screws to fit so kinda pointless unless u have some spare screws, will post pics up later of it 

 

 

I filled my diffs with oil...not had a problem since! Only run 2S though and just recently tried 3S!

 

 

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Got some high temp JCB machine greese, gona use some of that as havnt got anything else ATM, I use 2s and 3s but mainly 3s now, they crazy on 3s, a friend has put a new motor in his carnage an usin a traxxas 5000mah 4s an that's jus a backflip on command machine now lol an he hasn't broke a single diff yet, still on stock parts apparently

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2 hours ago, Madmoz7610 said:

Got some high temp JCB machine greese, gona use some of that as havnt got anything else ATM, I use 2s and 3s but mainly 3s now, they crazy on 3s, a friend has put a new motor in his carnage an usin a traxxas 5000mah 4s an that's jus a backflip on command machine now lol an he hasn't broke a single diff yet, still on stock parts apparently

 

 

That's mad!! It'll probably rip the stock tyres apart!! 

 

I think 3s is plenty fast enough for my needs. 

 

Took the cars out yesterday, broke two of the cars body posts and one of the cars rounded the hubs in the wheel. So got new hexes on order. Luckily had some spare wheels. 

 

Next batch will be the ones someone said a few messages back. 

 

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Took mine out earlier an didn break anything thank God, front diff is spinning nicely now too, but now I think my slipper clutch is too loose as it screams now lol, there's always sumin with these trucks, can't wait to have a Revo with push start 😁

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3 hours ago, Madmoz7610 said:

Took mine out earlier an didn break anything thank God, front diff is spinning nicely now too, but now I think my slipper clutch is too loose as it screams now lol, there's always sumin with these trucks, can't wait to have a Revo with push start 😁

Good luck with that!! Nitro will have its own heap of issues but hopefully the truck will be stronger. 

 

As for trucks I can't emphasise how strong the x maxx is compared to any other vehicle I've owned!! Definitely recommended it! 

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10 hours ago, vimto2000 said:

 

 

That's mad!! It'll probably rip the stock tyres apart!! 

 

I think 3s is plenty fast enough for my needs. 

 

Took the cars out yesterday, broke two of the cars body posts and one of the cars rounded the hubs in the wheel. So got new hexes on order. Luckily had some spare wheels. 

 

Next batch will be the ones someone said a few messages back. 

 

I did the very thing tonight . 

 

As I'm asking what other wheels do you guys recommend on the carnage  as the carnage wheels just keep rounding off (hex part)  this is the 2an ones iv rounded off .  I have the alloy type hex in the wheels so I guess there too strong for the plastic wheels on the carnage  .

 

So what wheels does anyone recommend for the carnage .  Cheers 

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14 hours ago, vimto2000 said:

Good luck with that!! Nitro will have its own heap of issues but hopefully the truck will be stronger. 

 

As for trucks I can't emphasise how strong the x maxx is compared to any other vehicle I've owned!! Definitely recommended it! 

The xmaxx really isn't as strong as ppl say it is, my brother in law's gone through 3 spurs in a month, set up properly too, mines jus broke because of my stupidity lol an the Revo is a crazy truck an far better than most nitros out there 

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1 hour ago, Madmoz7610 said:

The xmaxx really isn't as strong as ppl say it is, my brother in law's gone through 3 spurs in a month, set up properly too, mines jus broke because of my stupidity lol an the Revo is a crazy truck an far better than most nitros out there 

Messed up spurs dont mean the truck isnt strong, it means hes being to heavy handed on the motor / gearing, full pelt to full stop even the strongest gears will shear. When people talk of strength they usally refer to it not breaking on massive landings and being plastic its less likely to break or bend out of shape vs the likes of arrma lets say with chassis that bend.

Anyway back to the topic

 

14 hours ago, Iain .R said:

I did the very thing tonight . 

 

As I'm asking what other wheels do you guys recommend on the carnage  as the carnage wheels just keep rounding off (hex part)  this is the 2an ones iv rounded off .  I have the alloy type hex in the wheels so I guess there too strong for the plastic wheels on the carnage  .

 

So what wheels does anyone recommend for the carnage .  Cheers 


Get better wheels, maybe try traxxas wheels as their plastics a bit tougher? Worth not cheaping out on wheels, as you cant really go metal or beadlocks its a matter of test - break it- try something else.

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