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Nitro buggy keeps cutting out


Slacky

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My little brother got one for Xmas but we had some trouble getting it going so took it back to the shop for them to tune it. So now we got it back and it does work but it seems to cut out a lot when starting and driving. Whats the process of warm it up and why does it keeps cutting out when driving

Thanks

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if its been run in and is still runnin the same plug my first port of call would be to take the glow plug out, plug it into the glow start and see what the coil is like. you want a good strong glow. if its dim or has a build up of crap on the top coils then its dead.

what fuel are you usin?

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when its cold it doesn't run happy....

IF the Modelshop tuned it while it was still in the warming up process it could be running lean

But you need to tell us more info

does the Engine seem to be bogging? Lots of fuel spitting out the exhaust?

Or does it always want to keep etching forward?

Ziggy

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Having serious problems with the car now, my brothers been messing with it now it just goes without pulling the trigger, loads of fuel coming out the exhaust and it pulls to one side without touching the steering wheel. HELP!

your streering trim is needs to be corrected, and try putting the needles back to factory state and tune it from there

hope that helps

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Might be a daft question but how do I put the steering trim back? I think it's the only way to do it put the needles back. How do I know there back to standard?

do you still have the manual? in the manual it will tell you the factory needle settings and on the controller there should be some trim button and just play with that button till it goes straight

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Thanks mate will have a look. Struggling to get it started now. Should it start no matter what settings it's on? It goes to start then stops and struggles to ever try to start after

try adjusting the idle setting....pull the air filter off and full close the carb there should be about 1 to 1.5mm gap and if its less turn the idle screw....also have you already broken the engine fully in. how many tank have you done

chris

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yeah thats it....i think these are the factory settings for your engine

hsn: 3-3.5 turns out

lsn 2 turns out

idle about 1mm to 1.5mm

so turn the screws in all the way until you feel resistence and then turn them out from the above words....how much fuel has the engine had so far?

it look like you idle screw is a bit to open thats why it just wants to go close it a bit

Edited by snchris1
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I tried closing the idle screw but the gap doesnt seem to want to close, when back to factory settings should the car start and go? It's used about 3-4 tanks so far but it loses a lot through the exhaust. Any reason why lots of fuel seems to be coming out the exhaust ?

Thanks for the help

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I tried closing the idle screw but the gap doesnt seem to want to close, when back to factory settings should the car start and go? It's used about 3-4 tanks so far but it loses a lot through the exhaust. Any reason why lots of fuel seems to be coming out the exhaust ?

Thanks for the help

the reason theres fuel coming out the exhaust is because your running rich witch is good because your still breaking the engine in....here read this a...at number 3 it says exactly why you car just wants to go at start

Tuning Guide

A Basic Tuning Guide By Dazzi

Basic Tuning

Tune in order, make sure the car is at its base settings - the setting you broke it in with. Its should very rich (boggy/lots of smoke/ possibly stalling) at these settings and the performance will be poor.

Note: Most engines are happy with changes to the needles in 1/8 increments however in my expericience I've found Traxxas engines to suit 1/16 and also Cen engines, tuning them using 1/8 increments will only have you pulling your hair out

1. High Speed Needle

Turn the HSN clockwise (to lean) in a 1/8 increment and drive down a straight, each time you do this you'll see a small increase in performance (and a good trail of smoke), keep doin it until:

A : there's little or no smoke from the exhaust

or

B : the car gets slower at full throttle (down a straight) or stalls at full throttle

at this point turn anti-clockwise (richen) 1/8, if it's still no good turn another 1/8, that will be enough.

Untuned HSN Symptoms:

Too Rich - Lots of smoke/slow-poor performance/stall/groggy sound to the engine - Turn clockwise

Too Lean - Little or no smoke/very fast/loss in performance at full throttle or stall - Turn anti-clockwise

2. Low Speed Needle

Tune the LSN in the same way, but only make adjustments in very small increments at a time. The LSN is very sensitive and you can potentially cook your engine if it's set too lean. You are looking for fast and smooth acceleration with some smoke, a steady idle with some smoke and a bit of unburnt fuel won't hurt

Note: it takes time for the LSN adjustments to be visable, it helps to accelerate at full throttle for 5 seconds then brake and idle for a few seconds then accelerate again, repeat until you see the improvement in acceleration then carry on making adjustments.

If it stalls, stutters with high revs / no smoke on acceleration then turn anti clockwise 1/8, if no good unscrew another 1/8 - this should be enough

Untuned LSN Symptoms:

Too Rich - Lots of smoke and unburnt fuel at idle/slow acceleration/stall

Too Lean - little or no smoke on acceleration/immediate stall on throttle or stutters / high engine revs

3. Idle Screw

Your idle may be affected after these changes, make adjustments in small increments at a time,

Turn anti clockwise if it runs too fast at idle - wheels spin with no throttle

Turn clockwise if its too slow/low - eg revs drop then stall, stalls on throttle or when starter is removed.

Once tuned your car should have a fast smooth acceleration, impressive top speed, steady idle and ALWAYS a good trail of smoke

In Addition

One of the most common newbie tuning problems I've come across on here is instant stalls on throttle or when the starter is removed.

If you have this problem then its one or a combination of the following (check in order below):

1 - Glow Plug dead - replace if needs be

2 - Idle is too low - open the carb via the trim on the radio

3 - LSN too rich/lean

4 - HSN too rich/lean

5 - Engine too cold

3+4:

- if the setting is too rich you'll hear the engine being groggy at idle and see plenty of smoke and unburnt fuel

- it the setting is too lean there will be no smoke at idle and the engine will scream/high revs

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the reason theres fuel coming out the exhaust is because your running rich witch is good because your still breaking the engine in....here read this a...at number 3 it says exactly why you car just wants to go at start

Tuning Guide

A Basic Tuning Guide By Dazzi

Basic Tuning

Tune in order, make sure the car is at its base settings - the setting you broke it in with. Its should very rich (boggy/lots of smoke/ possibly stalling) at these settings and the performance will be poor.

Note: Most engines are happy with changes to the needles in 1/8 increments however in my expericience I've found Traxxas engines to suit 1/16 and also Cen engines, tuning them using 1/8 increments will only have you pulling your hair out

1. High Speed Needle

Turn the HSN clockwise (to lean) in a 1/8 increment and drive down a straight, each time you do this you'll see a small increase in performance (and a good trail of smoke), keep doin it until:

A : there's little or no smoke from the exhaust

or

B : the car gets slower at full throttle (down a straight) or stalls at full throttle

at this point turn anti-clockwise (richen) 1/8, if it's still no good turn another 1/8, that will be enough.

Untuned HSN Symptoms:

Too Rich - Lots of smoke/slow-poor performance/stall/groggy sound to the engine - Turn clockwise

Too Lean - Little or no smoke/very fast/loss in performance at full throttle or stall - Turn anti-clockwise

2. Low Speed Needle

Tune the LSN in the same way, but only make adjustments in very small increments at a time. The LSN is very sensitive and you can potentially cook your engine if it's set too lean. You are looking for fast and smooth acceleration with some smoke, a steady idle with some smoke and a bit of unburnt fuel won't hurt

Note: it takes time for the LSN adjustments to be visable, it helps to accelerate at full throttle for 5 seconds then brake and idle for a few seconds then accelerate again, repeat until you see the improvement in acceleration then carry on making adjustments.

If it stalls, stutters with high revs / no smoke on acceleration then turn anti clockwise 1/8, if no good unscrew another 1/8 - this should be enough

Untuned LSN Symptoms:

Too Rich - Lots of smoke and unburnt fuel at idle/slow acceleration/stall

Too Lean - little or no smoke on acceleration/immediate stall on throttle or stutters / high engine revs

3. Idle Screw

Your idle may be affected after these changes, make adjustments in small increments at a time,

Turn anti clockwise if it runs too fast at idle - wheels spin with no throttle

Turn clockwise if its too slow/low - eg revs drop then stall, stalls on throttle or when starter is removed.

Once tuned your car should have a fast smooth acceleration, impressive top speed, steady idle and ALWAYS a good trail of smoke

In Addition

One of the most common newbie tuning problems I've come across on here is instant stalls on throttle or when the starter is removed.

If you have this problem then its one or a combination of the following (check in order below):

1 - Glow Plug dead - replace if needs be

2 - Idle is too low - open the carb via the trim on the radio

3 - LSN too rich/lean

4 - HSN too rich/lean

5 - Engine too cold

3+4:

- if the setting is too rich you'll hear the engine being groggy at idle and see plenty of smoke and unburnt fuel

- it the setting is too lean there will be no smoke at idle and the engine will scream/high revs

Thanks, I'm going to try putting it at base settings tomorrow and working from there. How many ranks should I use at base before tuning?

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i would say 1 full tank at idle only and then 1 more tank with small half throttle jolts....and then tune...i was also thinking it might be you linkages that are abit wrong....when you turn you transmitter and reciever on and leave the trigger in the middle then there should be 1mm to 1.5mm gap and at fully closed the same

hope it works

chris

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I tried closing the idle screw but the gap doesnt seem to want to close, when back to factory settings should the car start and go? It's used about 3-4 tanks so far but it loses a lot through the exhaust. Any reason why lots of fuel seems to be coming out the exhaust ?

Thanks for the help

if your adjusting the idle screw and nothing is happenin, you need to adjust the trim knob on the controller too. i put the trim all the way in the brake position and set the idle screw then turn the trim back torwards the throttle till the throttle just starts to raise off the screw... if that makes sense

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I've put everything back to standard but it's struggling to start. It tries to kick up and then cuts out then don't start again. What do I need to do?

have you replaced the glow plug yet if not replace it as when you break a engine in it will eat them up

chris

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